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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 09-23-2010, 10:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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HPOP Testing?

I have an 06 6.0 that is dead. Is there a way test the HPOP with a non cranking non runing truck? I can easily remove it if neccassary.

Also advice on this would be helpfull
Truck blew an EGR cooler and I tried to make it home from some distance. on the way the truck decided to quit starting. It had bin slow to start for some time. New codes since not starting- P0098-Intake air temp sensor 2 high input. P2290-Injector control pressure too low. P2614-Camshaft position output circut. P0336-Crankshaft position sensor A circuit range performance. My batteries arn't the best and died after cranking a while Whitch could be the prob.

Thanks for the help
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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P0098-Intake air temp sensor 2 high input is from the EGR cooler not cooling the air before it went into the intake.

P2290-Injector control pressure too low may bee the root of the no start
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I just went though repairs for a P2290 on my truck.

First the dealership replaced the IPR valve, but the code returned. Then they replaced the ICP sensor and connector, but tthe code returned after this repair as well. Finally they replaced the HPOP. No code so far, but I've only put about 50 miles on the truck since this last attempt.

If the truck was hard to start when warm/hot, odds are you have a HPO system leak or a weak HPOP.

Low batteries can ruin a FICM. Best to replace them immediately.
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. I have it stripped down for a new oil cooler, EGR delete, exhaust and battery replacements and would hate to put it back together and find out I should have changed out the HPOP or something else while it was easy to do. W Huisman-It was like you say it didn't matter if it was hot or cold.
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by West28 View Post
Thanks guys. I have it stripped down for a new oil cooler, EGR delete, exhaust and battery replacements and would hate to put it back together and find out I should have changed out the HPOP or something else while it was easy to do. W Huisman-It was like you say it didn't matter if it was hot or cold.
Hard to start, hot or cold, seems to indicate a FICM problem. However, your P2290 points toward a HPO system leak or weak HPOP.

I don't know how much you have torn down and whether or not this can be done at your particular stage of repair, but I'd recommend testing your FICM voltage.

I'd also recommend pressure testing your HPO system with shop air through the icp sensor port.
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Unless you have the necessary clock off tools an an IDS to close the IPR valve you really cannot air test the system. IF you already have the EGR cooler out and I presume you also have the intake manifold out NOW IS THE TIME to remove the HPOP cover and inspect for the one piece connector. If your truck does mot have this connector I strongly recommend installing it NOW. It is also common for the standpipe o-rings to deteriorate and leak... removing the valve covers can be fairly easily done at any time however if this were my truck I would also do them NOW while you have most of the stuff on top of the engine off and out of the way.
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have the FICM out and plan on doing the repair that many people have recommended on here. Hopefully that will rule that out. Ford-doctor what is the one piece connector? Your right I have everything out but the HPOP. I bought this truck a while ago to replace my 04 but its bin nothing but problems. Injectors, fuel sending unit, HPOP leak, Bad EGR and oil coolers, and on and on. That's why I'm wanting to fix it all now and end this routine
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The one piece fitting will look like the one pictured inThis Article. The cover will never be easier to remove than it is right now.
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The one-piece branch tube connector Ford Doctor is referring to, can be purchased at your nearest Ford dealer by part number 4C3Z-9B246-F. Being an '06 model year, I would also pull both valve covers and slam dunk in a set of dummy rail plugs as well. They too, are updated with white telfon rings. The part number for this is -W302908 and you'll need one for each bank of cylinders. The original plug will require a 10mm allen key to remove and a 12mm allen to install the replacement. Torque to 60 ft-lbs.
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Great! Thanks guys I will definatly check into those and see if there the old versions still.
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Old 02-10-2011, 02:13 AM   #11 (permalink)
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m-chan68 and ford_doctor,

Is there an updated STC/ one piece HPOP Connector bracket for 2004 F250 as well? The DTS article states part # 4C3Z-9B246-F is for 2005-2007.


I am about to change out my oil cooler, etc so I would appreciate any info. Thank you.
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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"Unless you have the necessary clock off tools an an IDS to close the IPR valve you really cannot air test the system."

With all due respect,that's bull. You can air up the high pressure system with 100 psi and apply 12 volts for up to 120 seconds to the IPR. If there is a leak you will hear it.

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Old 05-03-2011, 06:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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With all due respect,that's bull. You can air up the high pressure system with 100 psi and apply 12 volts for up to 120 seconds to the IPR. If there is a leak you will hear it.
Yes, your correction of my statement is partially correct however if you need to test the branch tube you STILL need the block off tools AND quite often 100 PSI and 2 minutes is is not sufficient to air check the HPOP system. Many technicians have been using compressed nitrogen in tanks that allows testing to be performed at a much higher pressure. It is also advisable to leave the system charged with air for up to 1/2 hour to push the oil from the system. Oil can mask a smaller leak. Directly applying 12 volts to the regulator should not be done for extended time as that can damage the valve.

At this point in my experience with these engines, depending on the model year it has proven to be more effective to access both valve covers and oil rails and inspect all related seals and install updated parts where applicable. Using a scan tool with bi-directional controls will allow you to close the IPR valve at a safe duty cycle percentage.

Lastly, if you are going to use terms like "bull" in that context I would say that is not being respectful.
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