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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 07-18-2008, 11:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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hydro lock-tech please

I have a stock 04 with 120,000 miles. The truck had a clean oasis when I bought it (ICP replaced and an injector), and I have been real easy on it in the year that I have had it. I have had to replace another icp and the egr cooler hose, but that is it.
A week ago I was towing a 7k trailer a hundred miles when I noticed the smell of antifreeze while I was climbing a small grade. The engine didn't overheat according to the stock gauge, but I still pulled over to check it out and let it cool down. It was not puking fluid, and I did have enough, but vapor was coming out of the degas bottle. I took the lid off and it seemed like all the pressure had released itself. When I got home and checked it out, the fluid was dark colored, but it wasn't oil. The degas cap was not holding pressure at all, so I replaced it and completely flushed the system with distilled water multiple times and added a 50/50 distilled water and fresh motocraft gold antifreeze. The truck seemd fine for a couple of days.
Yesterday I started the truck up cold and it fired right up. I drove 3 miles and stopped to get a coffee. When I cam out 5 minutes later and started the truck it blew a ton of white smoke out, but cleaned up instantly. From reading on here, it seemed as if I blew a egr cooler. I drove it to work-no more smoke and it seemed to run fine. 5 hours later the truck had to crank longer to start-like 20 seconds, but it didn't smoke and seemed to run fine going home, which was only 6 miles. I called and made an appointment for Monday to take the truck in.
I tried to start the truck last night, and the motor turned halfway over and stopped. I am assuming it is hydrolocked. There is some fluid on the ground under the passenger side of the motor and my degas bottle was almost empty. I didn't try to start it anymore and left it where it was because I don't want to cause any further damage. I plan on pulling my egr valve tonight to look for fluid to verify it is my cooler.
How would I get rid of the coolant in the cylinder (if that is what is taking place). I am assuming I would take out the glow plugs? If I remove them do I let it sit before trying to crank it? Should I just tow it to the shop?
What all am I looking at that needs to be fixed? With the current economy, I am struggling just to keep my house, so funds are real limited. Any idea on how much this will all cost?
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Old 07-18-2008, 12:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Friend had a similiar problem and his was a bad head gasket. Wasnt cheap to fix.
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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if it's an 04 should still be under waranty? if it's the heads it's a couple K to get fixed. Any codes.. Hang in there also try posting this on, Power Stroke . org ,seems to be alot more traffic over there.
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No warranty, it's over 100k miles.
Update-I pulled the egr valve checking for moisture and the orings were gone!? Both of them. I know they were in there as I cleaned the valve about 6 months ago. There is still some blue residue from the o-rings where it met the intake.
The soot at the bottom of the intake has a consistency like rtv silicone. There is no free standing water there, but it is wet.
There is also coolant coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold, the cylinder closest to the cab of the truck. The leak is above the block/head gasket. Does this mean that it isn't the head gaskets?
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sounds like EGR cooler to me... The head gaskets will generally only leak when boost is high (the high cylinder pressures lift the heads off the block very slightly and combustion pressure gets into the cooling system) and we have yet to see head gaskets allow coolant into the cylinder.
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Old 07-19-2008, 12:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrampyJim View Post
Sounds like EGR cooler to me... The head gaskets will generally only leak when boost is high (the high cylinder pressures lift the heads off the block very slightly and combustion pressure gets into the cooling system) and we have yet to see head gaskets allow coolant into the cylinder.
Thanks for the info. I was hoping that was the case!
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Old 08-30-2009, 04:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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how can you tell if the engine is hydrolocked?..ive got a 04 excursion sittin in my driveway that i cant figure out....it will turn over but never start..it actually sounds like a stubborn mule. sparingly sprayed a little ether in the ole blow hole and still nothing. somebody help...
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Old 08-30-2009, 11:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by canefanjon View Post
how can you tell if the engine is hydrolocked?..ive got a 04 excursion sittin in my driveway that i cant figure out....it will turn over but never start..it actually sounds like a stubborn mule. sparingly sprayed a little ether in the ole blow hole and still nothing. somebody help...
Hydrolocked means there's stuff in the cylinder that keeps the motor from spinning over (hence the "locked" part). Typically, it's coolant. Yours spins = not hydrolocked.

Search the forums, there are several threads regarding "won't start". And there is no single easy answer.
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Old 09-01-2009, 11:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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+1 EGR cooler

Remove the glow plugs and crank eng. to clear the cylinders.

Be ready cause it is gonna blow crap all over your truck.

Then you are safe to drive to dealer. after adding water of course.
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Old 09-01-2009, 12:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I dont know if driving it after it hydro-locked once is a good idea.
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwebb View Post
+1 EGR cooler

Remove the glow plugs and crank eng. to clear the cylinders.

Be ready cause it is gonna blow crap all over your truck.

Then you are safe to drive to dealer. after adding water of course.

This will work, but another idea you can do is remove the glow plugs and then put a big old socket bar on the crank pulley. Turn it by hand to ease the engine/pistons through their paces to clear out the liquid. This won't blow crap as far around as using the starter motor and will help prevent any real damage. Shouldn't be that hard to crank with the glow plugs removed.

I rec replacing your egr cooler with the one from bulletproofdiesel. It helps prevent situations like this.

One last point - nice work not trying to start it again and again.... I have seen more than one bent crank shaft, hammered bearing or bent connecting rod from people that just wouldn't stop.....
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:03 AM   #12 (permalink)
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TorqueMaster is totally correct!

That is the proper way to do it.

But I'm too lazy to take the shroud and all out of the way, when all I want is to clear the cylinder.

So I bump it over with the starter.

Usually with rags in place to catch as much as I can.

Yes it does happen that often, that I can say "usually"

Now that I think about it, a cold engine has enough ring end-gap that the water will slowly drain past the rings and on into the oil pan.
Since the water is gonna be at the bottom of the pan <where the pick up is> you should change that right away so that it doesn't get sucked up into the pump

+1 GOOD JOB knowing when to stop!

Last edited by dwebb; 09-02-2009 at 10:10 AM. Reason: thought about it some more
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:42 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Once it's hydro-locked, do NOTcontinue trying to crank it over.

But once you do have water in your engine, you need to take care of it sooner, and not later. You don't want coolant solution getting into your bearings and stuff. It's not good. And if your vehicle IS hydrolocked, 95% chance you will have coolant in your pan. So you need to take action, as the last thing you want is to have to redo bearings, rings, etc, because you let it sit for a couple weeks.

If you're not going to get it fixed right away, drain the rest of the coolant. Then yank the glow plugs, and crank it over. And yes, it will shoot crud out, and it will be messy. Then drain your oil. Or, at least yank the oil drain plug, and see if water comes out. If it does, continue draining.

If you just want to get it drivable to the dealer, yank the glow plugs, crank it over, yank the oil drain plug and drain it until you get oil (drain all the water out), put the glow plugs back in, check your oil level (and top off if it's down more than a quart), start the truck, and then add water/coolant once it's started. Then drive to your dealership.
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Old 01-26-2010, 12:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I own a 6.0 03 PSD stock, and have a similar problem. Hydrolocked. The coolant "desapeared" during the night, and next morning it just turned about 1/8 or so. So I did stop. Didnt crank it again. Now, Im putting everything appart. I already removed the air filter, reservoir and intercooler lines. Next step to remove the admision elbow, EGR valve and turbo. Then FICM (think thats the aluminum box on top of the valve cover) and remove the valv cover.
Now, Can anyone tell me how to remove the glowplugs?

Thanks a lot guys. Im new in this forum and to PSD. but a Diesel Fan

Luis Amenabar
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Old 01-26-2010, 01:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You need a specific tool to remove the electrical connector. After that then you just need a 10 or 12 mm deep socket I think.
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