6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
i know there have been similar post to this, but i was wondering...
say on a day thats around 20-30 degree range and hasnt been plugged up, how long should you let it idle before hitting the open road? either in minites or degrees ( i have an oil temp and trans temp gauge) and is it ok to just leave the block plugged in all night? ive noticed some have timers on theirs.
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2003 cent. black lariat F250. crew cab, short box, 4X4. SCT, air raid cold air intake, zoodad, straight through exhaust, powershot 2000 propane kit, intake elbows.com elbow, fuel regulator shimmy mod, quad commander for gauges...tinted windows, gunmetal tails, clear recon mirror lights, fire & ice lightbar, billet grill, clear lamps, level kit, spray in bedliner...6cd in dash changer, sirius sat. radio, 2 - 10s in custom ported box
future plans: ccv mod, new clutch pack
dyno #s coming soon!
It's fine to leave it plugged in all night, but it just runs up your electic bill. I'd invest in a cheap timer to save a few bucks on electricity. I have mine set to come on at 4am, and I usually leave about 7am. It works out great. I don't let mine idle long at all, maybe a minute or two, but I just take it easy until it warms up - ususally keep it under 2k RPM's until the engine reaches operating temps.
6L -- The key is not running the rpms up while the motor and oil are still cold. Run the engine at less than 2K rpms until the temperature gauge starts to move or you are feeling warm air out of the vents. Then drvie it normally.
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Black/05/F350/XLT/CC/LWB/FX4/SRW/3.73/6.0L PSD/ TorqShift/Updated TBC/Upfitter Switches/SEIC Mod/Diesel Site Coolant Filter/Fumoto Valve/ITEC HFCM Drain Plug/Bilstein Shocks/BFG A/T 28565R18/Built September of 2004
it has a high idle though and idles at 1K until you touch the brake pedal. for instance, this morning, 29 degress, didnt have it plugged in. started it up and idling like crap for a few (havent got the latest flash yet, hope it helps when i do) engine oil temp was at like 36. let it warm up for about 15 min. engine oil was at 140 and was gettin pretty warm in the cab. how do yall keep it under 2K..if im babyin the throttle, i at least hit 2200. Thanks!
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2003 cent. black lariat F250. crew cab, short box, 4X4. SCT, air raid cold air intake, zoodad, straight through exhaust, powershot 2000 propane kit, intake elbows.com elbow, fuel regulator shimmy mod, quad commander for gauges...tinted windows, gunmetal tails, clear recon mirror lights, fire & ice lightbar, billet grill, clear lamps, level kit, spray in bedliner...6cd in dash changer, sirius sat. radio, 2 - 10s in custom ported box
future plans: ccv mod, new clutch pack
dyno #s coming soon!
Take those lead boots off! Seriously, just keep the rpms down around 2k. I can usually get the transmission to shift about that level. Think, "I've got to drive like Grandpa!"
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Black/05/F350/XLT/CC/LWB/FX4/SRW/3.73/6.0L PSD/ TorqShift/Updated TBC/Upfitter Switches/SEIC Mod/Diesel Site Coolant Filter/Fumoto Valve/ITEC HFCM Drain Plug/Bilstein Shocks/BFG A/T 28565R18/Built September of 2004
Maybe you can't keep under 22K rpm.? Just depends on what you've done before leaving or once on road. Ex: Same here..cold start @ + 29*, unplugged. Mine has 10W/30, but when high idle kicks in I take off. However...
I immediately hit 25 to 40 mph zone 5 mi. before freeway. Work's good (for me) leaving. Return trip I try to avoid freeway till warmed up. If not, then I get in slooooow lane for short time. Yeah, I know.
Yes, rpms will increase before shifting, just pay attention. You can do it, I know you can. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
yea, see soon as i leave my driveway...55 mph zone..2 lane. has anyone that has had the latest flash (injector cycle) noticed ANY differences in anything else...drivability, etc. or just the injecter pulse? and did it help if you had prior cold starting issues?
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2003 cent. black lariat F250. crew cab, short box, 4X4. SCT, air raid cold air intake, zoodad, straight through exhaust, powershot 2000 propane kit, intake elbows.com elbow, fuel regulator shimmy mod, quad commander for gauges...tinted windows, gunmetal tails, clear recon mirror lights, fire & ice lightbar, billet grill, clear lamps, level kit, spray in bedliner...6cd in dash changer, sirius sat. radio, 2 - 10s in custom ported box
future plans: ccv mod, new clutch pack
dyno #s coming soon!
OK gotcha. 2 lane/55 mph zone. If same there as here, you can get run over, right? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Plug it in. Oil vis. makes a diff. hence my 10W/30 delo. I no longer debate oils.
Recently reflashed with old/open recal's + latest ficm update. Never had cold start problem. Dont know if new ficm reflash made the diff. or old recals ? But, rompin/smokin on cold/warm starts is gone. Good luck!
Mine was outside in about 30 degree temps (running Rotella synthetic now) and I remote started it and by the time I got out to where it was parked, it was idling up to about 1000 RPM's purring like a kitten. I could see it and it started smooth as can be also.
This morning it was mid 20's and I cranked it up and took off taking it easy in less than a minute. Runs fine but I take it easy trying to "throttle shift" so it's running up to the minimum that it wants to.
__________________ 2004 EB Excursion, 4x4, 6.0, Magnaflow Exhaust, Isspro Gauges in an under cubby pod, Fumoto, V code front springs, Revo 285's and bubba lights
"Treat me good, I'll treat you better; treat me bad, I'll treat you worse." - Sonny Barger
i am running chevron 15w40...travel a lot too. from MN to FL and live right in the middle in good ol KY! seem like a good weight to use? how much did the flash cost OT. around here i had heard anywhere from 80-100 bucks, jw if its the same all over
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2003 cent. black lariat F250. crew cab, short box, 4X4. SCT, air raid cold air intake, zoodad, straight through exhaust, powershot 2000 propane kit, intake elbows.com elbow, fuel regulator shimmy mod, quad commander for gauges...tinted windows, gunmetal tails, clear recon mirror lights, fire & ice lightbar, billet grill, clear lamps, level kit, spray in bedliner...6cd in dash changer, sirius sat. radio, 2 - 10s in custom ported box
future plans: ccv mod, new clutch pack
dyno #s coming soon!
Where do you get Delo 10w/30? I haven't seen it. I like the 15w/40 but am planning to use Rotella 10w/30 on the next change because my local Wally World carries it. But I haven't seen Delo in that weight.
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2005 Arizona Beige F350 XLT FX4 6.0 CC shortbed, 3.73 ls rear, 18" wheels, Tow Command. Additions: Vent Visors, bug guard, Fumoto Valve, Timbrens. Traded for...
Current Truck -- 2008 Black F350 XLT 4x4, 6.8 V10, CC Long Bed, 4.10 rear, 18" wheels, IBC. Additions: Chrome Step Bars, Chrome door handles, Silver barbed-wire pin stripe, B&W Turnover GN ball
We have a local Chevron fuel/oil (delo) distributor here. If you find one there & decide to get it, just aheads up. Why..if boxed, open to verify correct API rating before you leave. Dont ask me how I know. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Change your oil to Synthetic (any brand) 5-40 and forget idling and using the block heater. I think different than some of you. I keep mine in Tow-Haul all the time in town, and especially when cold. I am of the belief that low RPM lugging is much harder on the engine than easy, light throttle RPM's. I am careful not to give it much throttle for a couple of miles, but I have 35 MPH streets to drive on, not needing to hit 55 for a few miles.
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2003 KR F-250 4X4 CC SWB, 6.0, 5 Speed Auto, 3.73 Axle, no Limited slip. Rhino bedliner, Unicover bed cover.
Built on February 19, '03
#2 93 F-150 XLT, 5 Liter, Auto, 4X4, X Cab. 251,000 miles. Uses no oil between changes.
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