Lack of towing power

[kraftchick]

Unfortunately, I'm at 106,500 miles....so anything that's going to be done will come out of my pocket.

[lubbockguy1979]

The head gaskets are not the problem although they have been revised since 04. The bolts that ford uses are the problem. They are torque to yeild and the 6.0 has fewer head bolts then say a 7.3 and higher horsepower. This is why we have head gasket problems along with the egr system that can be problematic. The only true fix is to get arp head studs that torque down with more ft/lbs. As far as code reading at auto zone their equipment will not pull the codes that a autoenguinty will or for that fact the ford factory system. Another thing to remember there is a tsb (technical service bulliten) that tell the technician to fill the degas bottle cap to the minimum line to help aleviate puking problems. One cheap fix that got rid of the horn noise was to replace the degas bottle cap. For me it was the cap that was not functioning corectly. The 08+ cap is revised and vents pressure differently and more effectively. This is probably not what is causing the lack of power but it might kill the noise. The only way that I know of to check for the loss of power aside from cleaning the egr valve first is to do both a injector buzz test then a cylinder contribution test. You can I believe do these tests with the auto engunity. Most code scanners cannot though. If you have one or two injectors that are not functioning properly this would eliminate that. The auto engiunity is about $400 bucks plus ford liscence software possibly cheaper if you hunt for it. For me it was about $350 to have ford run a diagnostics test on my truck when I had a bad ficm. If I knew what I know now and could afford to have my truck down a few days it would have been cheaper for me to self diagnose the issue I had.

[BRUMFIJW]

When I had mine done they quoted $2600 parts & labor for both coolers. Mine was hydrolocked but they said all that was needed to unlock was pull the glowplugs and the cylinders would drain. I talked them down to $2300.00 and off I went. That was July of 2008.

[kraftchick]

Ouch !! Before going any further, I do want to thank everybody for all the input and help....I'm certain I can speak for the non-mechanics out here, of which I most certainly am one......a lot of money would be either wasted or scammed out of us without folks out here sharing their knowledge. If nothing else, I am now at least more learned with the terminology and can have somewhat of an understood conversation with the mechanic when I go that route. I have a highly recommended local Ford diesel tech that has a shop of his own on the side that I contacted this weekend...he left a message for me yesterday, so hopefully I'll get hold of him tonight and can get him started on what the issue could be. I'm already planning on pulling the EGR valve tonight to see if it needs cleaning....and hoping it is cruded up, and after cleaning or replacing.....everything works perfectly with power restored.......HA.....one can hope huh?

[kraftchick]

UPDATE....Finally got the truck to the locally recommended Ford diesel tech. He hooked up his computer....no codes!!!!! Nothing! We even test drove it down the road with the computer hooked up....he was checking turbo boost. At WOT, it spooled up to 25 PSI....just as it's spec'ed to do. He couldn't find anything wrong...engine seems to run just fine. I continued to explain the issue I had towing where I noticed the lack of power the most...and we decided that I'm going to tow the camper to his shop Sat. morning and let him tow and see what he thinks. This morning I stopped for coffee on the way to work and talked with another guy that was there with an '05 F250...just like mine. He's got 76K on his...mine is at 106K. We took his for a test drive up the road and onto the highway....his truck felt much more responsive and lively. His throttle response was great....lot's of get up and go. Then I let him drive mine....he felt the same lack of power. The issue is definitely NOT just towing....it's all around responsiveness....and I feel like it's throttle responsiveness. I'm putting the pedal on the floor to get the same "push you into the seat" feeling at 1/2 throttle in his truck. Seems like it takes a lot longer for the truck to decide to gear down and start pulling too. Any ideas?

[kraftchick]

And even when I do have the pedal on the floor...the acceleration just isn't impressive....not near what I experience in his truck. Is it possible that the difference in 76K and 106 is just normal wear and tear on the motor and my truck is just running the best it's ever going too?

[FTG-05]

In addition to that suggested above, one thing you might try is to disconnect both batteries for about 15 minutes. This will reset your computer (you lose any codes though) and it may cause the computer to "relearn". Some people report that this has returned some power lost.

Good luck.

Al

[kraftchick]

Albin...very interesting idea! I will definitely try this tonight! With it not having any stored codes at this point, it couldn't hurt anything....and I am up for ANY suggestions at this point.

[bismic]

This will probably generate more questions than answers, but sometimes that is what it takes to get to the root of the problem .......

Here is a quick list I put together on the things that can affect power (in relative order of "cheap and easy to resolve" to "most expensive"):

- Boost leak (CAC tube): check for leaks.
- Clogged air filter: check filter minder or just replace the filter.
- Plugged fuel filters: replace filters w/ OEM filters.
- Aerated oil (wrong/worn-out oil OR too much oil): change oil properly.
- Wire chaffing: check problem areas.
http://www dot *************** dot com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=17301&d=1208412696
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-13.php
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-13.php
- Bad fuel.
- Clogged fuel lines: Check system (run pressure check if you can).
- Air in fuel: check filter caps and lines for leaks.
- Bad EGR valve or clogged EGR valve: clean EGR valve.
- Clogged EBP, MAP sensor tubes: clean tube / hose.
- Stuck turbo vanes: clean turbo or replace center section.
- Injector stiction: get latest flash or maybe use HotShots.
- Having your truck flashed when you did not return your tuner to stock.
- Improperly completed flash.
- Bad MAF sensor: replace sensor.
- Bad ICP sensor or harness (usually will have rough or no-start w/ this).
- Bad IPR valve (or restricted IPR valve due to solids on the inlet screen).
- Bad VGT actuator. Replace actuator.
- Bad fuel pump (HFCM).(you MUST have a minimum fuel pressure of 45 psig at all times or you risk expensive injector damage).
- Leaking EGR cooler. Replace or eliminate the EGR cooler.
- Bad injectors. Identify and replace leaking injector(s).
- Bad FICM, usually there are quite a few codes w/ a bad Fuel Injection Control Module.
- Bad HPOP. Usually a "no-start" condition will be experienced with a bad high pressure oil pump. It is a fairly big/expensive job to replace this pump.
- PCM defueling due to excessive oil and/or coolant temps.

note - in the link with stars, put "the""diesel""garage" as one word where the stars go.

[FTG-05]

That's a great list, Mark, thanks!

[bismic]

Originally Posted by Albin

That's a great list, Mark, thanks!

Thanks Albin!

Also - exhaust related concerns such as a clogged catalytic converter if stock, and a leaking y-pipe, or egr pipe. A easy visual sign of leaking exhaust can be at the flex tubing located at each up pipe to the turbo, using a flashlight and mirror you should check for signs of soot. Some times the leak is audible.

Also, a bad EBP sensor (not just a plugged EBP tube) can be the root cause. Quite a few turbo's have been replaced when the root cause was the EBP sensor.

[kraftchick]

Mark...from the list above...which of the items could occur WITHOUT producing codes?

[bismic]

Originally Posted by kraftchick

Mark...from the list above...which of the items could occur WITHOUT producing codes?

When you say "codes" do you mean with, or with-out a "check engine light"? You can have codes and NEVER get a "check engine light". I think that almost everything on the list can happen and not activate the check engine light. probably most of them could even happen and not throw a code initially. Most of them will eventually cause enough issues that a code will be thrown.

Not sure that helps, but at least check for leaks and make sure your filters are all good. Then make sure the oil is good (if you have a bad injector and fuel is leaking into the oil it can cause problems) - I like to take a sample and send it to Blackstone for oil analysis. then check out the wire chaffing links.
Post back if and when you have gone through these.

Sorry it is so complicated, but such is the beast .....

[kraftchick]

Thanks for the replies Mark. By codes I meant, could I have one or more of the above going bad or broken (especially the more specific ones....sensors, etc) without the mechanic's computer picking up and DTC's. Basically...the other day I had the mechanic that I've been recommended too check things out...he said that the truck wasn't producing any error codes at all. He checked the turbo boost as the primary suspect of my complaints (he drove it down the road with the computer hooked up....at WOT the turbo pulled 25 psi every single time...he said that was good and that's what it's supposed to do). I haven't ever had any CEL's since I've had it.

I also found the thread below at powerstroke.com....read through it....I haven't ever experienced great power with this truck (I bought it in 10/08) and then noticed a loss of power....it's been performing like this ever since I've had it...I just noticed it more when I started towing a camper with it...especially up a 3 mile 6% grade....bogged down to 38 mph. with the pedal on the floor. That's what made me start questioning if something was wrong. Now after testing with two other F250's (actually one was an F350)....I realize that my truck is definitely NOT performing the way it should/can. Here's the thread:
2005 6.0 F250 4x4 no power - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

[kraftchick]

UPDATE: Took the truck and camper this morning to the mechanic to test drive/tow. He definitely noticed the lack of power. We went back to the shop, hooked up the scanner/computer and went for another test drive out on the highway towing. Keeping a constant 63-65 mph...the oil temp was showing about 40 degrees hotter than the coolant. Truck is scheduled for the OR next Tuesday. Going to get a new oil cooler, egr cooler while he's in there, and he's going to open up the turbo and give it a good cleaning. As some have suggested when this happens, the PCM is starving the engine of fuel on purpose. Sounds all to familiar huh? Clearly this is an issue....I'm just hoping it really is what is causing the lack of power and that after the job is done that I'll feel the power in my truck that I've experienced in the other stock F250's I've driven to compare against.