6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I get the limp mode light (little wrench) only at high speed in cruise control. Doesn't seem to effect anything it's just annoying. My shop can't figure it out. Anyone else seen this before?
That is not limp mode. In limp mode you can't do much more than idle down the road.
What see is a Check Engine Light (CEL) and you need some kind of scanner to read the code that is causing it to come on, especially if it is going away when you slow down.
Mikw
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04 E-350 Ext. 6.0L PSD 4.10LS 9700# w/driver
D70 Full floating rear axle from a cutaway van
Sportsmobile camper conversion w/penthouse top
140A Alternator. 125W solar panel. Sportsmobile off-road trailer.
106345 miles. 16.65 mpg average
From Cal to Alaska, Key West, Labrador/Newfoundland and points in between
Salem Kroger coil spring 4wd conversion - 4" lift
05 F350 front axle and aluminum wheels 275/70-18 tires.
46 Gal tank - harpooned pump vent tube.
Scangauge. DieselSite Coolant Filter@72K. Fumoto valve. Amsoil dual remote oil filter setup.
Thx for the info. My shop did ck when light was on and said no active codes. I got the limp mode info from the online ford manual. I am familiar with limp mode in big trucks and your right no power at all! This is an engine protection thing. Mine doesn't effect the truck that I can tell.
It certainly takes a code to set the CEL. I'm guessing your shop is not a dealer. Generic code readers may not read all the codes.
Mike
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04 E-350 Ext. 6.0L PSD 4.10LS 9700# w/driver
D70 Full floating rear axle from a cutaway van
Sportsmobile camper conversion w/penthouse top
140A Alternator. 125W solar panel. Sportsmobile off-road trailer.
106345 miles. 16.65 mpg average
From Cal to Alaska, Key West, Labrador/Newfoundland and points in between
Salem Kroger coil spring 4wd conversion - 4" lift
05 F350 front axle and aluminum wheels 275/70-18 tires.
46 Gal tank - harpooned pump vent tube.
Scangauge. DieselSite Coolant Filter@72K. Fumoto valve. Amsoil dual remote oil filter setup.
The "limp mode" that you are referring to with the wrench light on is only set by one of two things. Forgive me, I'm on my phone right now and don't have exact code numbers. A turbo over boost, and delta difference are the only two things currently in the ford calibration that will set the wrench
light (not cel) seeing that you were on cruise control at high speed, I can only take a guess that you set a wrench light for delta temps(coolant and oil temps being more that 15 degrees apart for x amount of time) As already stated, generic code readers will not read soft(wrench) codes as they are reset with ignition cycles.
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2005 F-350 cc, 6sp, 4" turbo back MBRP, 03 turbo, ARP studs, Sinister EGR delete, Southbend clutch, SCT with custom tunes and really bald tires
1996 F-350 Reg cab psd auto 187k so far so good
Wrench light is, as I seem to recall, on 2005 and later vehicles only. they also had boost gauges, so if it's over-boost you should be able to see it on the dash gauge. Normal max boost is around 28 lbs, but if the turbo vanes stick you can see up to around 35 psi. That is enough to start to cause head gasket problems, hence the light. The more common reason is the oil cooler is clogged and your EGR cooler is about to fail due to overheating. The light comes on when the delta between coolant temp and oil temp exceeds 15 degrees under a certain set of load, usage, outside temp and probably a few other conditions. The normal test is to read the temps with a OBDII data reader (Scangauge II and others) while driving unloaded at 60 - 65 mph on a flat highway. If your temps creep up to show a difference of close to or more than 15 degrees, your oil cooler needs to be changed. As far as I know, there are indeed no codes for either condition, just the light.
Thx to all you guys that replied. All good info and will pass on to my shop. Any immediate concern? Is this something that needs to be dealt with pronto? I'm pretty sure it's not over-boost. Yes I have a boost gauge and I think I would have noticed. I am going to go with the delta temps. I don't have any maintenance history on this truck so I just had my shop replace all filters and change the oil. I figured that would give me a baseline. Any and all comments and or advice appreciated.
Thx all for the info and suggestions. I will pass on to my shop. And no It isn't a dealership. Small shop (ARC Automotive) in Pueblo,CO. They have been very good to me and I would recommend them to anyone in the area.
I would (I did, to be honest) get a Scangauge II and program in the engine oil temp X-gauge as a priority, and find out what your engine oil temp is under the test condition of steady 60 - 65 mph flat road while unloaded. If it's over 15 degrees, then your oil cooler is clogged which is starving the EGR cooler of coolant, which is letting it overheat and when it gets hot enough the coolant passages will fail and put coolant in your intake, which will cause you to buy new head gaskets and claim the 6.0 is unreliable. It's not something you can put off unless you have three or four grand in your pocket you just really need to get rid of, maybe...
I get the limp mode light (little wrench) only at high speed in cruise control. Doesn't seem to effect anything it's just annoying. My shop can't figure it out. Anyone else seen this before?
Hi 1st PSD,
Even though you have an independent shop that you like, you're always welcome to swing by your dealership so they can inspect. Ford certified techs are in the ideal position to get to the bottom of this puzzler for you.
Thx to all for your input and answers. I am going with the delta temp difference. Checked in to the repair cost .About $600 in labor to replace the oil cooler, $200 for the part, and I didn't even ask how much for the EGR cooler. Maybe they are one in the same. I haven't owned a Ford for 20 years because of the horrible service/experience I had with my Ranger. Don't get me wrong I loved the truck , just hated the dealership. So I finally get the truck I have wanted for quite awhile and shoot it's breaking me. I love my PSD. It is a great looking truck and stock it pulls like nothing else I've driven. Oh well guess I will have to start saving the pennies again. This is a great site with lots of good people and information. I will just keep on truck'in
Please verify the oil cooler issue before spending any money.
There are other things that can cause the wrench light (ie voltage, APP issue):
Store code and wrench warning lamp illuminated when PCM vehicle power (VPWR) parameter identifier (PIDS) is below 10.25V for 60 seconds or below 9V for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-3
Ok guys I think I got it. bismic I appreciate the advice. Now my next question is how and what are my least expensive options for checking this temp difference? As I understand it a "Scan II" or similar tool ain't cheap. $300 or so. Any other options?
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