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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 02-23-2010, 09:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Long Life 6.0's

Im still fairly new around here, but have found alot of VERY useful information. Seems alot of people are asking the same question, "How can i get the most life out of motor?" And thats also the question i have/had. I started this thread simply as a way for people to post so its all in one place. What i have noticed so far is:

1. Coolant Filter
2. Proper maintence schedules
3. Use pods and gauges to monitor all temps
4. large exhaust to cut down on temps
5. head studs help save gaskets
6. Always change fuel filters

If i have missed any please add them to this list.

Thanks to everyone for helping keep the trucks we love lasting as long as they do.

Jason
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I would add:
  • CCV re-route to keep oil out of the intake
  • Monitor fuel pressure. Fuel pressure seems to be the #1 killer of injectors.
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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sorry but whats CCV? also how can you monitor fuel pressure? thanks.
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Some of this is repeating scoobs and smiley1, but it is probably worth repeating:

If you want a "lifer" of a truck:
1. Be METICULOUS on ALL the fluid and filter changes. Proper filters (Motorcraft, Racor, Or International), proper fluids (CI4+ or CJ4 oil, Mercon SP tranny fluid, and Motorcraft Premium Gold or G-05 coolant), proper filter change intervals.

2. Properly maintain and check your coolant properties twice per year (ALWAYS keep it between 40% and 60%, NEVER let the degas bottle get empty, keep the nitrites above 800. Also, flush the coolant every 50k miles and use VC-9 iron cleaner as part of the flush. If the Nitrite level is ever under 300, then flush and replace the fluid. Fix leaks (even a leaking degas bottle cap) PROMPTLY. Ford part number for test kit: 328-00001

3. Drive EASY until the truck is FULLY warm.

4. Properly maintain and check your battery and alternator twice per year.

5. Coolant filter (dieselsite filter is a good choice)

6. Be very picky about where you fuel up - use high volume stations. Bad fuel can cause a lot of issues. Use a quality fuel additive for cetane AND lubricity. Drain your HFCM every oil change and when you drain water from it, empty it into a jar and visually inspect.

7. Get the latest flash update for your trucks computers

8. HIgh idle mod in case you have to idle for very long. Minimize idling if you can.

9. FICM repair (re-soldering) from SWAMPS and voltage upgrade (consider a custom progran from "PowerHungryPerformance").

10. GAUGES - fuel pressure, boost, EGT, EOT and ECT, voltage - minimum

11. CCV re-route (Use 1 inch hose, GST-II for oil resistance, and I use a Racor-6000-08-L, but a RACOR 4500 would do).

12. Stiffer fuel regulator spring (3c3Z-9t517-ae)

13. Power steering filter (Magnefine #M010CB - w/ 3/8 inch connections). Cheap mod - can't hurt.

14. Regularly "pull and check" EGR valve for coking (and for wetness) - do it w/ your truck on an incline facing downwards. maybe even do the same for your turbo.

15. 2008 Tranny pan with filter (instead of a screen). This one I am not convinced is necesary, but a lot of folks like it!

16. Depending on the year model, you may need the updated turbo drain tube (Ford Part # 6C3Z-9T515-A or International Part # 1876071C91).

17. For 05's and 06's - replace the STC fitting with the updated one piece connection.

18. Return regulated fuel system (or FASS or Air Dog set-up)

19. Head studs

20. EGR system - I think an engine can be reliable WITH the EGR, but that is probably a minority opinion. Research the options carefully here.

21. SCT tuner or Spartan Phalynx - If you must run a tuner, research it well and get the most reliable custom tunes.

22. Larger exhaust (4 inch)

23. Occasionally "punch it and drive hard for a short while" BUT ONLY after fully warm

24. Read the forums and learn all you can about your truck and doing repairs yourself - you will save a lot of $$'s.

25. Find a mechanic that comes HIGHLY recommended. A good dealership mechanic is worth a fortune to you.


Ten best mods (IMO):

1. coolant filter (dieselsite filter is a good choice).

2. Stiffer fuel pressure regulator spring (3c3Z-9t517-ae) or the BB mod.

3. Larger turbo oil drain tube (depending on your year model) (Ford Part # 6C3Z-9T515-A or International Part # 1876071C91)

4. Gauges!!! Especially fuel pressure, boost, ECT, and EOT.

5. ccv re-route ( 1 inch hose, GST-II for oil resistance, and a Racor or similar filter - either a 4500 or a 6000, ).

6. Fumoto valve (http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=33)

7. Updated HFCM drain plug (Ford #6E7Z-9C082-A or International #2589259C91)

8. Harpoon the fuel tank

9. High idle mod

10. Power steering filter (Magnefine #M010CB - w/ 3/8 inch connections).
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Last edited by bismic; 02-23-2010 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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There are a number of differing opinions on how to do the ccv re-route. Some just vent the crancase to the open air near the back of the engine. Some put an oil trap and then vent to the air. Some put a filter and vent to the air. Others install a larger filter and take the vapors back to where they go in a stock engine (ie the intake tube to the turbo). This last one is what I did and it works well.

Some folks routed the vent into their exhaust. It is my opinion that this will create too much back pressure. Fords MAXIMUM spec on the crankcase backpressure is 0.3 psig.

Here are a few threads on the topic:

Crankcase Ventilation Rerouting - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

http://www.dieselperformance.com/ind...uct/index/152P

I originally used 3/4 inch hose, but did some calculations and decided that 1 inch hose was very much warranted. I also used a "home-made" filter at first, but the PVC did not hold up well to the oil. I finally went with a very expensive Racor - just personal preference. There are cheaper filters that would be fine to use.

This is an old install "slideshow":
http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg305/bismic1/FTE%20ccv%20reroute/?albumview=slideshow
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Last edited by bismic; 02-23-2010 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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For fuel pressure, you need to install an electronic sending unit that then sends a signal to a gauge in the cab. They are not very cheap, but they are very important IMO. Most people install the sending unit on the secondary fuel filter test port. I used the ITP fuel hose adapter to enabled me to install the sending unit away from the congested area of the secondary fuel filter. I used a Quadzilla Recon XZT for the fuel pressure. It also does boost and EGT.

Fuel Pressure adapter and hose (for remote location of the sending unit (install lower than the fuel filter bowl test port that it connects to). M12x1.5 to 1/8" NPT fitting:
http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php/products/60L_FP_Adapter
http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/DM-FPA60_installed.htm
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok, so when you say boost gauge is that for the dash set up that doesnt show boost or go to an after market to replace the factory dash boost gauge?
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Old 02-24-2010, 07:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Good point, many already have boost and do not need to replace what they have. The factory boost is essentially the only gauge that is really accurate (besides tach and speed).
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Adding more to the "lifer""

This advice on increasing the longevity of your truck is all good advice.I could only add 1or 2 more. This advice says add a Magnefine Magnetic filter to your Power Steering but also add one to your auto transmissiom return line. Ford did in their testing of the Magnefine and found it reduced repeat failures by 30 % and suggested if installed earlier would have prevented the initial failures. Chrysler also installed them for the same reasons.
Additionally you van now by MagnaFilter which is the same advanced magnetic flux technology but as a adapter that sits ontop of your spin on engine filter and it removes the 50% of iron that your spin on doesn't. Don't get me wrong i've got a vested interest we make the design and manufacture these sophisticated magnetic filters in conjunction with our USA partners. But everyone that uses them,is impressed and happier.

If you want a "lifer" of a truck:
1. Be METICULOUS on ALL the fluid and filter changes. Proper filters (Motorcraft, Racor, Or International), proper fluids (CI4+ or CJ4 oil, Mercon SP tranny fluid, and Motorcraft Premium Gold or G-05 coolant), proper filter change intervals.

2. Properly maintain and check your coolant properties twice per year (ALWAYS keep it between 40% and 60%, NEVER let the degas bottle get empty, keep the nitrites above 800. Also, flush the coolant every 50k miles and use VC-9 iron cleaner as part of the flush. If the Nitrite level is ever under 300, then flush and replace the fluid. Fix leaks (even a leaking degas bottle cap) PROMPTLY. Ford part number for test kit: 328-00001

3. Drive EASY until the truck is FULLY warm.

4. Properly maintain and check your battery and alternator twice per year.

5. Coolant filter (dieselsite filter is a good choice)

6. Be very picky about where you fuel up - use high volume stations. Bad fuel can cause a lot of issues. Use a quality fuel additive for cetane AND lubricity. Drain your HFCM every oil change and when you drain water from it, empty it into a jar and visually inspect.

7. Get the latest flash update for your trucks computers

8. HIgh idle mod in case you have to idle for very long. Minimize idling if you can.

9. FICM repair (re-soldering) from SWAMPS and voltage upgrade (consider a custom progran from "PowerHungryPerformance").

10. GAUGES - fuel pressure, boost, EGT, EOT and ECT, voltage - minimum

11. CCV re-route (Use 1 inch hose, GST-II for oil resistance, and I use a Racor-6000-08-L, but a RACOR 4500 would do).

12. Stiffer fuel regulator spring (3c3Z-9t517-ae)

13. Power steering filter (Magnefine #M010CB - w/ 3/8 inch connections). Cheap mod - can't hurt.

14. Regularly "pull and check" EGR valve for coking (and for wetness) - do it w/ your truck on an incline facing downwards. maybe even do the same for your turbo.

15. 2008 Tranny pan with filter (instead of a screen). This one I am not convinced is necesary, but a lot of folks like it!

16. Depending on the year model, you may need the updated turbo drain tube (Ford Part # 6C3Z-9T515-A or International Part # 1876071C91).

17. For 05's and 06's - replace the STC fitting with the updated one piece connection.

18. Return regulated fuel system (or FASS or Air Dog set-up)

19. Head studs

20. EGR system - I think an engine can be reliable WITH the EGR, but that is probably a minority opinion. Research the options carefully here.

21. SCT tuner or Spartan Phalynx - If you must run a tuner, research it well and get the most reliable custom tunes.

22. Larger exhaust (4 inch)

23. Occasionally "punch it and drive hard for a short while" BUT ONLY after fully warm

24. Read the forums and learn all you can about your truck and doing repairs yourself - you will save a lot of $$'s.

25. Find a mechanic that comes HIGHLY recommended. A good dealership mechanic is worth a fortune to you.


Ten best mods (IMO):

1. coolant filter (dieselsite filter is a good choice).

2. Stiffer fuel pressure regulator spring (3c3Z-9t517-ae) or the BB mod.

3. Larger turbo oil drain tube (depending on your year model) (Ford Part # 6C3Z-9T515-A or International Part # 1876071C91)

4. Gauges!!! Especially fuel pressure, boost, ECT, and EOT.

5. ccv re-route ( 1 inch hose, GST-II for oil resistance, and a Racor or similar filter - either a 4500 or a 6000, ).

6. Fumoto valve (http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=33)

7. Updated HFCM drain plug (Ford #6E7Z-9C082-A or International #2589259C91)

8. Harpoon the fuel tank

9. High idle mod

10. Power steering filter (Magnefine #M010CB - w/ 3/8 inch connections).[/quote]
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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"This advice on increasing the longevity of your truck is all good advice.I could only add 1or 2 more. This advice says add a Magnefine Magnetic filter to your Power Steering but also add one to your auto transmissiom return line. Ford did in their testing of the Magnefine and found it reduced repeat failures by 30 % and suggested if installed earlier would have prevented the initial failures. Chrysler also installed them for the same reasons."

Doesn't the magnet in the external transmission filter serve this purpose?
I guess an additional one could be a little improvement but there is a magnet already plumbed in.
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Old 02-28-2010, 10:07 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Few questions from a noobie. What do these all stand for:

HFCM
CCV - crank case ventilation?
ECT
EOT

Also, what is "Harpoon the tank"

Great info here that is appreciated!
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Old 02-28-2010, 01:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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HFCM - Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module (also the primary fuel filter AND the fuel pump)

ccv - you are correct

ECT - engine coolant temp
EOT - engine oil temp
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