Need some help asap - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Need some help asap

I recently purchased a 04 6.0 f-250 and I have run into some issues. Runs like a top and starts right up with no smoke. After parking it overnight went back out the next day fired it up started driving then a sudden loss of power amd the trans felt it wasent shifting when it should amd the only way it would shift is if I let off the gas. After driving around some more I noticed that the turbo was starting to fart back through the intake.

Here's what I've done and am planing to do to try to fix this problem-
-cleaned the ebp sensor(helped somewhat with the turbo farts)
-cat delete

Starting to think that the turbo veins might be sticking and need to to be cleaned

Also waiting on new fuel filters

Engine is bone stock not including the egr delete and new injectors by the previous owner.

Any input is greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 10:30 PM
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codes?

Live engine data?

Oil level good and fresh oil / filter in it? Is the oil filter an OEM filter (also is the oil filter cap OEM)?

If you have a way to read engine parameters (PIDs), then check and post the information below. If you don't have a way to read this data, buy a scan tool.

Verify EOT, ECT, TFT, and IAT all read about the same when cold (after 10-12 hours of not being driven).

Verify Baro, MAP, and EBP all read the same (or within 0.5 psi) w/ KOEO.

Make sure batteries are fully charged and individually load tested.

What are the volts when cranking?

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 04-12-2017 at 01:24 AM.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Well, no check engine lights or any other warning lights all temps according to factory guages are reading normal(not sure how accurate) I believe I would need a light on for codes to be there correct?
Also no scan guage definitely going to look into getting one, also noticed a oil leak on the engine around the starter and on the trans bell cover believe it has to do with the hpor connection hose or drain plugs hence a small amount of somkeb coming from the y pipe.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 12:06 PM
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It is common to have codes with no CEL or MIL (light).

You need a scan tool for the live engine data, otherwise I could take guesses and cost you money.

In the meantime, check the MAP sensor hose for cracking or poor connection.

Still need the data posted though (including battery voltage when cranking)

You can run w/ the EBP unplugged to see if a bad EBP sensor is causing issues (that can happen even if you have an early 04 engine that has been flashed to not use the EBP sensor).

Phone apps are cheaper than the scan gauge II.

DashBoss and Forscan for iOS
Torque and Forscan for Android

You will need an ELM32 adapter (I use BAFX)

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 04-12-2017 at 12:36 PM.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 12:36 PM
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Oh - and factory gauges are practically worthless.

Lastly - oil leaks almost always end up at the bell housing. I have had that since new (200k miles), but the hanging drop never falls.

Glow plug leaks are common and so are drips from cam and crank sensors. ICP sensor leaks also. My drip appears to be originating at the ccv "doghouse". Oil temp and oil pressure switch leaks are not terribly uncommon either.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 04-12-2017 at 12:39 PM.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-13-2017, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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So, I will get the cranking volts later, as for the oil leak is it any major concern or is it best to let it go, will definitely look into the scamer for the phone and I believe that the root may be a result of bad diesel since the power lose started the next day after getting fuel.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-13-2017, 11:21 AM
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I agree with what Bismic is suggesting here. I would dismiss the thoughts you have concerning the transmission for now as engine performance issues, particularly a lack of power can make the trans act like it has a problem. Going by your description I also think that your turbocharger is sticking...

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 07:24 AM
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I wish I still had access to a unique troubleshooting tool .... the diagnostic 8 ball (now restricted on Diesel Technician Society)

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
I wish I still had access to a unique troubleshooting tool .... the diagnostic 8 ball (now restricted on Diesel Technician Society)
I take it you are poking me!

I don't think that is restricted content, I think it was removed some time ago. However, the DTS site is about to receive a total renovation from software to content. I can bring back the Diagnostic 8 Ball if you really really really want it. I think the reason it was removed was to update it which I never did. I can customize it and should to include stuff that goes wrong with the 6.7L.

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Last edited by ford_doctor; 04-16-2017 at 08:13 AM.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 08:20 AM
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I was trying to get your attention, but not poking! I really would like to have access to it again!

Glad you have stayed active with 6.0L forums!

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Here's an update-
After driving the truck some more I have noticed that all symptoms are pointing back to the turbo,

-scanned the truck for codes and got nothing
-changed the fuel filters( long overdue)
-ran some seafoam through the engine

I think part of the issue was bad fuel after running the truck and getting rid of some fuel filled up and ran better after about 5-10 minutes of driving.

At a dead stop the truck struggles to get going and gain momentum and takes a while for the turbo to spool and build boost, once up to speed builds boost and rides perfectly so is it turbo lag????
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 06:53 AM
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We have been trying to tell you it was turbo related. That doesn't mean the turbo itself is 100% the problem though (very well could be, but you have to do the leg work). You probably do have sticking vanes, but you need to verify the sensors also (and the hose/tube that the sensors connect to). Doesn't sound like you are doing that, so you probably should take it in since you need help asap and it has already been a week.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 04-19-2017 at 06:59 AM.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I should have mentioned that the sensors were the first thing I looked at and checked out hoping that it would be a simpler fix.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Started pulling the trubo out of the truck, everything came off fairly easily the only issue was the rear mounting bolt. Now that everything is loose and the turbo is ready to come out but I can't seem to wiggle it out if the engine bay. It seems to be catching on the oil Drian tube. Any tips or ideas???
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:23 PM
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Take a break. Breathe deep. Move your body to a different position. Learn new cuss words. Have someone else take a look at what you are doing.

These suggestions are all meant to be helpful. (Ok, maybe not the cusswords) I have had a few turbos out, but not enough to picture where you are hanging up and how to work around it, but these are some general things I do when I am struggling with something.
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