6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I know your supposed to let your truck warm up befor you go any where, but does it not have any power til it warms up half way? I started my truck last night to pull it back in the drive way to plug it in. I didn't let it warm up that much. I tried to pull it out of the ditch in front of my house and it was struggling to get out of the ditch. Does the tranny have to build that much pressure befor it will move?
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2004 F-350 CREW CAB 4X4 LONG BED 6.0
5" exhaust with 6" tip, whistles with the best of them
KN cold air intake
Autometer pillar gauges (4) fuel pressure,exhaust temp,trans temp,and boost
I have tried to pull a trailer without it being up to temp, BIG mistake. Almost got hit trying to pull out on a road. The turbo isnt very responsive unitil warm. One reason is the acutator is driven by engine oil. The oil in the acuator sits until the warm oil can warm it up and push it out of the way. Here is a picture of were the oil sits. I like to let mine warm up for 5-10 minutes. That is usually long enough for a trailer. Maybe longer if it is colder and not plugged in.
I'm not supposed to let it idle to get warm??? how does it warm up then?
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2004 F-350 CREW CAB 4X4 LONG BED 6.0
5" exhaust with 6" tip, whistles with the best of them
KN cold air intake
Autometer pillar gauges (4) fuel pressure,exhaust temp,trans temp,and boost
The best is to let it idle for 5min or so then take it easy until the gauge moves off the cold line. Don't plan to tow hard until it is at full temperature.
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2004 F-350 CREW CAB 4X4 LONG BED 6.0
5" exhaust with 6" tip, whistles with the best of them
KN cold air intake
Autometer pillar gauges (4) fuel pressure,exhaust temp,trans temp,and boost
do this: start engine on a cold day and let it idle for 5 minutes. Shut off engine and remove oil filler cap and look at water on oil filler cap.
Warming up the engine by idling is the slowest way to build heat in a diesel engine. The crankcase vent system does not circulate much when the engine is cold and condensed water vapor will not be ventilated out and forms in higher quantity.
If it is below freezing it is wisse to let it idle for no more than two minutes to let the oils in trans, power steering, and engine get circulated and then drive off slowly. How long you take it easy is dependent on how cold it is.
The idling 18 wheeler thing was due to transmissions with no synchronizers and the inability to shift gearbox without the trans oil being warm. Also the driver may have wanted to keep the windows clear of ice. Let truck idle also had a LOT to do with it not usually being a truck owned by the driver and the fuel was not being bought by the driver either.
But if you like, please let it warm up for lengthy period of time. Exxon-Mobil can use the money.
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Don't tell my cattle I got leather seats!
2006 F450 CC Hauler bed 4x2 6.0 L Pstroke/Torqshift, Lariat, 4.30 r/a.
2006 F350 Lariat CC Dually 4X2, 6.0 TQShift 4.10 LS, STOCK.
36 feet on the floor Elite/Outlaw LQ horse trailer.
36 foot double tandem axle flatbed trailer.
36 foot Sooner 6 horse large dressing/ mid tack.
15 horses with good balance from being hauled behind a P'stroke.
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2004 F-350 CREW CAB 4X4 LONG BED 6.0
5" exhaust with 6" tip, whistles with the best of them
KN cold air intake
Autometer pillar gauges (4) fuel pressure,exhaust temp,trans temp,and boost
Do a topic search for "wet-stacking." It is detrimental for the 6.0 to idle when cold. Run it easy under 2000 rpm until it warms up. Yeah, it's a pig when it's cold. That's the first thing I noticed when I switched over from the 7.3
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Red 2002 F-350 XLT SRW 4x4 7.3L reg. cab 6-speed rubber floors traded at 50K for:
Red 2005 F-350 XLT SRW 4x4 6.0L reg. cab 6-speed rubber floors BFG 12.5x35 mud-terrains, no lift traded for:
Red 2008 F-350 XLT SRW 4x4 6.4 reg. cab 6-speed. Got carpet this time- audiophile stereo deletes rubber floors. BFG 12.5x35 mud terrains, no lift.
Traded at 45K for: Red 2011 F-350 XLT SRW 4x4 6.7L reg cab BFG 12.5x35 mud terrains, no lift. "optioned" out of- stick shift, rubber floors, audiophile stereo, fog lights, chrome step bars GRRRRR!
My not too very scientific research tells me that 6.0's that are warmed up for several minutes before they are driven get stuck turbo vane problems. One of my friends with a 2005 that does warm ups has had a turbo cleaned and then it was later replaced. Another friend who has a 2005 company truck and starts and goes has similar miles and never a turbo issue. Both trucks are 3.73 geared crew cab 4x2's. The sample is small but it makes me wonder.
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Don't tell my cattle I got leather seats!
2006 F450 CC Hauler bed 4x2 6.0 L Pstroke/Torqshift, Lariat, 4.30 r/a.
2006 F350 Lariat CC Dually 4X2, 6.0 TQShift 4.10 LS, STOCK.
36 feet on the floor Elite/Outlaw LQ horse trailer.
36 foot double tandem axle flatbed trailer.
36 foot Sooner 6 horse large dressing/ mid tack.
15 horses with good balance from being hauled behind a P'stroke.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HARLYBO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I know your supposed to let your truck warm up befor you go any where, but does it not have any power til it warms up half way? I started my truck last night to pull it back in the drive way to plug it in. I didn't let it warm up that much. I tried to pull it out of the ditch in front of my house and it was struggling to get out of the ditch. Does the tranny have to build that much pressure befor it will move? </div></div>
My truck is the same as yours except mine is bone stock and I can start mine at 0 F. above, I started it at 10 above without being plugged in 2 mornings ago, and NO WARM UP and step on the "go pedal" and it goes. Try putting it back to stock; remove that junk air intake, and see what happens. If not, put it back to stock and get the latest flashes. Starts and go's no problems!
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2004 F350 Crew XLT 4x4 long box, SRW, 3.73 Gears
Bone Stock
It's called "cold engine, dead pedal" and I've lived with it since new in 2004. It's frustrating for things like moving the truck around the driveway at short notice, etc. I've gotten to the point that I'll start the truck, let it idle for 30 seconds or so, then rev the engine gently up and down the RPM range... Once it seems responsive, I'll shift into D and drive off. If it's real cold, or if the truck has sat for an extended period, I'll start it and let it idle for 4 or 5 minutes before I even try to move it. Seems the colder it is, the longer it takes.
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