No Power At The Pedal - Diesel Forum

TLihou · 07-26-2009, 07:18 AM

The past few wks in the morning my truck has been idling between 800 and 1000 rpm rough. I changed the air and fuel filters (x2) yesterday. I put my foot down to go on the pedal from the driveway I got nothing. the truck just idles. No power from the pedal???? Any ideas???? I cycled the key on/off to get the fuel pressure back up in the lines after draining to change the filter. The truck turns over but almost got stuck on the side of the road with no go. Once the truck is warm this really isn't and issue up until I changed the primary fuel filter. Still Idled like ****, and the no power at the pedal has happened three times in the past 24hrs. Before that, once. Now the stealership that I bought the truck from told me that they did a major service @ 87kms. Thats B.S.... The air filter looks like it did a run through the desert. Couldn't see through it at all and sounded like sand was in it. The fuel filters were original from new. Truck now has 110000kms on it. Could it be injecotrs, FICM, EGR Valve???? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

bismic · 07-26-2009, 08:20 AM

What year model is your truck?

If you go over 10k mile intervals (IMO) on fuel filter changes, you risk ruining your injectors. I know the manual says 15k miles max, but I think that is pushing it (again IMO) - especially if you run into a bad batch of fuel. So even if the dealership did an 87 kms service on the fuel filters, at 110 kms you are at the upper end of acceptable filter change interval.

What did the filters look like when you pulled them? Please describe them. I assume you changed both, but I could not tell for sure from your post (you said something about "operation OK when warm up until you changed the primary filter"). Also, what makes you think the filters are original? I would bet on injector problems if they really were original.

Are you using OEM style filters or aftermarket ones. It is highly adviseable to stay away from aftermarket (ie use only Motorcraft, International, or Racor).

The poor start and idle whe cold, then improving when warm does sound like injectors. However, to know for sure you need to check for DTC's (codes). I know they are expensive, but an Auto Enginuity code reader is a great tool - you can read most of the codes and you can do the injector buzz test with it.

The air filter can hold around 3 lbs of dirt and still be OK. What did the filter minder indicate? Have you looked at it? If not, it is "latched-in" until you reset it, so you can go back and check. I would not think that 68k miles would be a big problem for the OEM air filter - unless the filter minder showed a problem.

No power at the pedal sounds like an APS (accelerator position sensor) issue. The system is "fly by wire", not mechanical linkage.

TLihou · 07-26-2009, 03:15 PM

The filter for the primary had a beige to/bottom and a fine screen over top of the paper inner core. The secondary was just paper. The only reason I think they were never changed was that the drain plug was rusted on. My neighbor helped me. He's worked on main diesels for minor stuff like filter changes etc... He was saying that the filter was shot and that it was probably org. The filter reader did say that the filter was ok. But again it looked terrible... Are there certain injectors that fire at low idle and then obviously more come into play as you go into gear??? I'm a rookie when it comes to motors. Doing my best to learn.... The truck is still under warr until 120km's. My neighbour has one of the readers. I beleive made by I think snap on??? Plugs into the right under the wheel I think??? Would that be the style of reader your talking about???? Thx again for the info and reply.

Cheers,

Tyler

TLihou · 07-26-2009, 03:18 PM

Oh sorry the truck is and 05 f250 king ranch.

InetDev · 07-26-2009, 04:13 PM

If the fuel filters were likely never changed and you have that many miles/km's on it, injectors may be the issue. Have heard they are extremely difficult to diagnose, best to swap one out with a new one as the new one will indicate bad ones in each bank (side). From what I've read, bad FCIM will throw several codes.

I'm no expert, but the hard start may be related to a HPOP fitting. If it's under warranty, get it replaced now as it's very labor intensive to do. Since you've described it as rough idle and once warm runs better, I'd say it wasn't the EGR valve, stuck VGT turbo vanes, or other common issues.

Ask the dealership about the HPOP and injectors. Bad injectors do not always throw codes.

Ask the dealer to pull an "OASIS" report which should list all work done at dealerships for the life of the vehicle.

bismic · 07-26-2009, 04:37 PM

Injectors, FICM, HPOP - all these are covered under the 5 yr / 100k miles warranty. Get it in quickly and all you should pay is $100 deductible.

It would be good to read the codes and post here before taking it in. The Snap-On should read the Ford codes as long as it was OBD-II w/ CAN compliant (and it should be). Yes the OBD-II port is under the steering wheel.

TLihou · 07-26-2009, 06:32 PM

Thx for the info guys.... As for the codes would the chk eng light have to be on in order to get a reading of what the issue could be???? Again sorry for the dump q's but I'm learning a lot on this forum as I go.

Cheers,

TLihou · 07-26-2009, 06:33 PM

One other thing what is HPOP???? I know what FICM is.

Thx,

bismic · 07-26-2009, 06:34 PM

No problem w/ questions at all!

You can have codes even if the CEL is not on.

The HPOP is the High Pressure Oil Pump. It supplies oil at 3700 psig to the injectors where an intensifier piston increases the pressure on the fuel to apprx 2700 psig for injection through the nozzles.

Ford uses this technology for the 6.0L instead of having a high pressure fuel pump.

TLihou · 07-28-2009, 08:29 PM

got mine back from the dealership this afternoon. They told me that it was in the FICM. They had to re-program the damn thing. I was told that they got outta whack for no reason. Does that make any sense???? Either way I got 10,000kms left on the warr. We'll be opting for the ext warr if things like this just happen. I tried to get the codes from the mech, but I was told that he had left for the day..... Figures... Hopefully there won't be a next time. Hope that this helps somebody.

Cheers,