6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Ok so I went to the store a couple of weeks ago and truck ran and started just fine. Then when I came out of the store it fired up fine and I was sitting there letting it idle while I tried to find a song on the iPod then the idling sound changed wasn't like a miss or running ruff. So I took off from the parking lot notice it lost power,was sitting at the light and when it changed to green I punched it and again no power got to the driveway and it died. Tried to start it, didn't start. It sat at the driveway for about 4 hours went to start it. It fired right up. Then soon as I put it in drive it was struggling (no power) then died again. Then wouldn't fire up again. So what should I be checking out here?
Thanks in advance!
Aaron
Arp studs
EGR delete
Blue spring
CTS monitor
SCT tune by Matt
ELC and external filter
S&B air
6.4 banjo bolts
4" mbrp exhaust
Oil cooler replacement
To do much troubleshooting you will need a way to watch the ICP (pressure in the HPO system), the ICP desired, IPR % duty cycle, FICM sync, cam/crank sync, FICM volts.
I'd check FICM voltage first. Check cold while KOEO, cranking, running, and high idle. If that checks I'd get it to run and drive, then re-check at operating temperature. If that checks out it 90% rules out the FICM. Then I'd say your issue is most likely an HPO leak, which gets worse when the engine's warm as things expand. The IPR read can help diagnose if that's the issue, but you need the right tools to do it, so it may require a trip to a shop. You can also air test the HPO system with the right tools. ICP is another possibility; you can unplug it and see if the truck will start, that's sort of a backwoods way to test it, but effective nonetheless. The issue is that on an '04 it's under the turbo, so hard to get to, which is why reading its duty cycle is a good way to test without having to take anything apart.
'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, pillar vane front rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
My '06 is doing some thing very similar. You can read about it in the post labeled "head gasket and injectors". I am getting the truck back today and starting with the FICM and moving from there. Good luck and I will keep you posted on what I find works for me.
That sounds good. I'm just waiting for my season to be over so I can take my time when I start working on it. I'm not to happy right now there is this red squirrel putting butternuts all over the engine compartment and wheel wells. I been trying to kill the little sob! But no luck.
Arp studs
EGR delete
Blue spring
CTS monitor
SCT tune by Matt
ELC and external filter
S&B air
6.4 banjo bolts
4" mbrp exhaust
Oil cooler replacement
well finally started on the truck. When I started it I finally got a code P2290. Also the CTS noted that the volts for the ICP .4 KOEO and running it just went form .2 to no higher then 1.8. Wouldn't run smooth falls below 500 RPM then put it in drive dies. Also the ABS light stays on I dont think that has anything todo with the problem. But anyway thats the update.
Ok I in plugged the icp sensor it did a long crank but it did start. I let it idle while I put some tools a way. It ran smooth not rough at all I hopped in and push the accelerator down till about 2000rpm then slowly brought back to idle. Put it in reverse went down the driveway and came back up. Then I just reved it up and then let it fall back to idle then it just died. Then tried to start again now just a long crank. Wants to start but won't. So that's where I'm at now.
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Arp studs
EGR delete
Blue spring
CTS monitor
SCT tune by Matt
ELC and external filter
S&B air
6.4 banjo bolts
4" mbrp exhaust
Oil cooler replacement
That means you have a small HP oil system leak somewhere and ya need to do the air test procedure to find out where. Either that or your low pressure pump is not putting out enough volume to keep the HPOP supplied with enough oil.
To be shure you need to have it scanned on live data to see if anything else may be dropping out as well. Fo example loss of sync FICM or PCM.
That means you have a small HP oil system leak somewhere and ya need to do the air test procedure to find out where. Either that or your low pressure pump is not putting out enough volume to keep the HPOP supplied with enough oil.
To be shure you need to have it scanned on live data to see if anything else may be dropping out as well. Fo example loss of sync FICM or PCM.
Thanks for the info dannyboy!
Well I did order up an Auto Enginuity so hopfully that will help me out.
other wise is there a write up on how todo the air test?
Looks like I'll be seeing the boys at tousley ford a lot this winter!
With it being an early '04, the P2290 code, and unplugging the ICP not helping, I'd lean towards it being a bad HPOP. The '03 and early '04 engines don't have the STC, dummy plugs and stand pipes that are prone to leak. But the HPOP's are a known weakness.
Before completely condemning it, I'd take a look at your ICP and IPR while cranking. You need ~0.80volts (500psig) to fire the injectors. If the IPR duty cycle goes really high (like 85%), that means it's completely closed and still not building pressure.
You should also check the other variables Bismic mentions in his post as well. The pumps are rather expensive and you want to eliminate the other "easy" stuff before calling it bad.
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