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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 05-20-2009, 04:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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oil 6.0 type????

can i use mobil 2000 10-40 semi syntetic in my ford 6.0 2005 mod, engine???
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Old 05-20-2009, 06:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Is it compatible with a diesel motor? CI-4 rated?
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Old 05-20-2009, 08:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I would recommend using only 15-40w oil specifically designed for diesels like Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo or Mobil Delvac. Read your owners manual, (diesel supplement), there are specific standards for the oil requirements for these engines. The owners manual will also show you how to read an oil bottle and which letters/numbers to look for.

Powerstrokes do not like having the wrong oil in them. The injectors run on extremely high oil pressure and I can even tell a slight difference between the brands. My 7.3 seems to like the Delo the best, could have been my imagination. I've heard anecdotally that they will not even run if the oil is really wrong.
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Is it ok to change the brand of oil with 65K miles? I have always had the dealership do the service work. I have noticed that they are not doing all they say they do. So I want to start doing it myself. Can you give my a fast run down on the oil change?

Thanks
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I switched from castrol Tection diesel 15w-40(no problems) to Rotella 5w-40 full sythetic(was on sale) at 45,000 miles and couldn't be happier. Motor runs smoother and quieter. Nice to know that there is synthetic in there too.
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Old 05-21-2009, 08:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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1. park truck front end facing up hill
2. warm up truck (drive it around for a while to make sure the oil is warm)
3. open fuel filler (gas tank) cap
4. unscrew largest black cap on the engine but do not remove it just unscrew it
5. large 15qt or bigger drain pan under truck
6. removed pan bolt let drain for at least 20min
7. grease front end while draining
8. remove black cap (filter is snapped to it) besure to lift straight up
9. unsnap filter from cap, remove o-ring, reinstall new o-ring, reinstall filter into cap, oil o-ring
10. reinstall cap and filter, tighten until it touches aluminum base too tight it will break too loose will leak.
11. put drain plug back in
12. slide drain pan over to hfcm (alum looking thing on inside of drivers frame rail)
13. with a 6mm allen wrench remove the brass plug and let fuel drain for 3 to 5 seconds
14. reinstall brass plug making sure not to tighten it too much or you will not get it off again
15. reinstall gas cap (gas tank cap)
16. refill engine with 14-15qts of diesel oil (filler cap on passenger side valve cover).
17. turn on key count to 30 turn off key, do this 5 times.
18. start engine and check for leaks.

In this process you have changed the oil, greased the front end and drained the water and dirt from the hfcm. I do this every 5k miles. Changing the oil in a 6.0 is amazingly easy (much easier then it seems from my list) and can be done in a half hour. If you have a 4wd you should grease the universal joints at the ends of the front axle. Just spin the universals until the zerc fittings are accessible. You may have crank the wheel to one side to gain access.
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mlsteele View Post
Is it ok to change the brand of oil with 65K miles?

Thanks
MS
No problem at all as long as you stick with one of the correct/recommended oils for the engine.
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Old 05-21-2009, 04:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok.thank`s For Lots Of Helps.
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Old 05-23-2009, 12:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok.thank`s For Lots Of Helps.
Toen,

In Norway, you might want to look into a good Synthetic 5W40 for winter operation. I know Mobil 1 makes a syn diesel, but make sure it's for a diesel. Rotella, Scheaffer's, AMS & DELO are also available.

It'll make cold starts easier.

OMC
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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fuel filters every 5000??? do you own stock in racor or just have more money to spend than you know what to do with? the book says 15000 miles for fuel filters does it not, fords # are generally conservative enough unless you regularily buy some truly ****ty fuel.as far as changing brands so long as you use an oil which meets ford requirements you could change brands/weight every oil change for the life of the truck and never take one day off its life. i do believe ford now says syn 5w30 is acceptable year round under any conditions, makes it easy one oil all the time, no changing oil at halfway because its too cold or too warm
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Who said anything about fuel filters every 5k miles? Reading comprehension...it's your friend.
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bcoakley View Post
I switched from castrol Tection diesel 15w-40(no problems) to Rotella 5w-40 full sythetic(was on sale) at 45,000 miles and couldn't be happier. Motor runs smoother and quieter. Nice to know that there is synthetic in there too.
Did you keep records of fuel mileage before and after the synthetic change ? I'm wondering if you saw any improvement in mileage. How frequently do you change with synthetic ?

I was amazed - I've never been a synthetic enthusiast. Maybe my numbers are wrong - maybe I missed something - but if you pay around $2.85 a quart for dino oil now, and say synthetic costs around $5 a quart. If you change your oil every 5K miles with dino oil, and go 7500 miles with synthetic, you will spend about $212 per 100K miles, more on synthetic. If you gain 1 MPG by using synthetic, depending on the price of fuel, (at $2.50 / gal) You could save about $900 per 100K miles.

To keep on topic at least a little, I change my oil every 5K religiously, and only use (so far - non synthetic) Rotella or Delo (which ever has been cheaper when I'm buying). I've done all changes myself except the 5K mile which the dealer did (for free). 42K miles on truck now.
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Old 05-28-2009, 07:42 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help with my oil question. I have never changed oil in a deisel and needed to know how to do it. So, now I am ready for the task and will know that my truck is serviced right. Thanks Guys!!!

Mike
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2012 F-250 Lariat 6.7L Crew Cab, Ingot Silver
20"wheels, 3.55 EL gear, Dual Alternators, FX4, Upfitter Switches, Bullet Liner, Weather Tech mats, Reacon side mirror smoke lens, SCT Live Wire TS with PIP tunes, 4" Delete Pipe


My Wife took ownership of:
2006 F-250 Lariat 6.0L Crew Cab, Black w/ Chrome package, Chrome bug guard and door latches
18" stock wheels, Nitto Tera Grappler, 4" Turbo Back MBRP, AccuFab Power Elbo, Edge Insight Monitor, Tinted Windows, Rhino Liner, Husky Floor Mats, B&W Turnover, Air Horn, ZooDad mod, Recon's all around, ARP studs, EGR Delete, SCT from IDP, and a heavy foot


Turned 100K miles 12-23-11


-Bullet Proofed 103K
-New Head Gaskets 58K
-New EGR Cooler 29K
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:48 AM   #14 (permalink)
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minnesota go back and read the post by rock doctor.fuel filters.... READING COMPREHENSION ITS YOUR FRIEND
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Old 05-28-2009, 03:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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He said nothing about changing the fuel filters @ 5k miles, only opening the water drain on the HFMC for a few seconds while doing his oil changes. Read it again real slowly, if necessary.

And no need to yell on the interweb.
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