Oil Cooler Service/Replace or Relocate??? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 11-27-2009, 04:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Oil Cooler Service/Replace or Relocate???

I am in the process of planning to replace the EGR cooler and I am going to work on the oil cooler as well however.....
Does anyone know.....

What is the quality of the ford Oil cooler service kit?......worth replacing with a new unit???

Does anyone know of a decent oil cooler relocation kit?

I would like to explore all the options without regard to price...

thanks

Jon
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Ford Power Stroke 6.0L Parts Upgrades from BulletProofDiesel.com

They have Oil Cooler Relocation kit and a EGR cooler that is modified but will still function.
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Old 11-27-2009, 08:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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How well does it work and has others in here bought it?

BC
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Old 11-27-2009, 08:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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ford stock oil cooler waste of time im sure

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Originally Posted by JonGage View Post
I am in the process of planning to replace the EGR cooler and I am going to work on the oil cooler as well however.....
Does anyone know.....

What is the quality of the ford Oil cooler service kit?......worth replacing with a new unit???

Does anyone know of a decent oil cooler relocation kit?

I would like to explore all the options without regard to price...

thanks



Jon

I just joined this system so i may not post this right but I will try. I have purchased my first power stroke about one month ago and have been reading a ton of things and learning all i can about the whole mess. I have a small amount of oil in my degas bottle so I know my oil cooler is failing and I am also losing a very small amount of coolant each week (maybe 4 to 8 ounces) so i probably have a failing EGR cooler as well. My plan is to build my own new oil cooler system. I am surprised that I cannot easily find a drop in replacement for the stock oil cooler but It seems only stock ones are available and I have read that they simply fail again so whats the point in putting in a stock one. I am going to remove the original oil filter assembly and make an adaptor plate to reroute the oil through a (air) oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator down low. I have already purchased the cooler which is a SETRAB unit used in alot of race car apps. 22 x 5 x 2 ($65 on ebay). I also found a twin oil filter housing that is frame rail mountable that I will use somewhere up front near the cooler. I am going to use the same basic princibles as those used by the guys at bullet proof diesel . com but I will likly do some things different. I also found LONG brand oil coolers on ebay and I think two of those would work as well if you cant find a SETRAB at a good price. I will post more info as I go and maybe even pics of how I did it and the results. Please everyone chime in with info and tips to help me out if you have some. I found the tandem spin on oil filter item at HEDMAN.com part no. 1030, this type should provide tandem filtering for more flow but not double filtering. I read that the 6.0 can demand many gallons of oil in one minute during high rpm conditions so you need plenty of flow with very little restriction. will probably just use a high quality micron spin on filter 2x

Last edited by teamroper60; 01-21-2010 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've just finished gathering a lot of data on the 6.0L oil cooler design. I too have oil in my degas reservoir and researched alternatives.

I'm here in California so I can't do without my front license plate, nor can I (as rumor has it) defeat the EGR cooler/system for fear of running afoul of the soon to be announced diesel inspections.

I have gathered the following information that is absolutely essential for designing any alternative oil cooling alternative: The 6.0L motor will demand a maximum of 18.5 GPM flow of oil - a very high flow and don't forget to take that into account if you plumb oil to an external oil cooler. My initial calcs showed you must either 3/4" or 1" ID hydraulic hose to maintain the proper pressure going back to the motor from an external cooler. Another important bit of information - the International water-to-oil cooler was designed to exchange up to 1,670BTU/minute of heat energy. That works out to slightly more than 100,000BTU/hour which demands quite a large cooler and also one that can flow at least 18.5 GPM. The aftermarket units I was able to find were quite expensive - at least $400+ dollars and you still need to find a way to mount the whole mess along with an aftermarket oil thermostat (don't do any cooling without one) that will flow the required 18.5 GPM and of course the filter assembly that will also flow 18.5 GPM.

To make a long story short - after counting up the amount of time to fabricate everything and all - it just isn't worth the effort. I talked with the guys at bulletproofdiesel and they are working on a solution that solves my CA problems.

I have no financial interest in mentioning their name here - it's just my best efforts to come up with a solution to the problems of the original design.

Good luck.
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Also a coolant filter makes a world of difference.
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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oil cooler do it myself stuff

Yes, I too read about the 18.5 gal per minute, which is hard to believe but probably accurate. I had also read that the stock filter and assembly cannot actually deliver that much without bypassing and that is supposedly one of the main reasons the stock coolers receive dirty oil from the bypassing condition which ultimately causes clogging and overpressure and ultimately failure of the cooler and oil in your degas tank. The most informative info for me so far has been bullet proofs pdf install manual which includes a run down of the OEM domino series of failures which lead to the ultimate engine melt down. If anyone out there wants the whole run down of events just go to bullet proof and then download and print that pdf and read the whole thing, it is pretty impressive and it makes sense. I am about 80% sure that the SETRAB cooler that I purchased is the exact same one that BP is using in their kit, but I will check to make sure that it has at least 3/4 inch pass throughs when I get it. It was listed I believe with AN10 size fittings but I must plead ignorance on what that is in inches. The filter housing that I purchased is plumbed in parallel instead of series so it should give double the volume flow on a single spin on. I will have to do some research though to see what spin on to use to allow for the max of 19 GPM. I also watched what seemed to be a logical and good video on you tube about bypass filtering to 1 micron which removes soot from the oil. If this theory is correct (which it seems to make sense) i think I will add another smaller spin on filter right next to the tandem and plumb it in parallel with the two, this third filter will only be filtering a small percentage of the total flow due to orifice size relationship but it will filter that percentage of the oil to a much higher standard. So if the engine was using say 10 GPM then only maybe 1GPM would be 1 micron filtered but the entire oil capacity would be 1 micron filtered in just 19 minutes of operation. I also plan on installing thermocouples on the system to see what is going on for the first couple of weeks of operation. I will post more info as I progress through it.

Last edited by teamroper60; 01-21-2010 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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coolant filter

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Originally Posted by speedrcr78 View Post
Also a coolant filter makes a world of difference.

Yes, I agree, several other people have said that the oil coolers can clog on either the coolant or the oil side. I also read that due to flash boiling in the EGR cooler it is always a good idea to use distilled water in the coolant system to prevent the thing from getting mineral deposit build up from crappy water in the system. All of those reasons are why I am going to build a work around to get rid of the stock oil cooler. Dont know yet about the EGR cooler, I may just buy one from bullet and keep her stock in that area.
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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FYI - 10AN fittings are only 5/8" since each of the (Army-Navy) numbers stands for 1/16" of an inch - so #10AN works out to 10/16 = 5/8".

You need to work with #12AN fittings (or larger) to keep up with the flow requirements.
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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home brew oil cooler

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FYI - 10AN fittings are only 5/8" since each of the (Army-Navy) numbers stands for 1/16" of an inch - so #10AN works out to 10/16 = 5/8".

You need to work with #12AN fittings (or larger) to keep up with the flow requirements.
Good news! I just found out that the SETRAB I snagged on ebay for $65 has 12AN fittings on it and that the ebayer did pressure test it with no leaks found. Now does anyone out there know which spin on filters I should use for enough flow to meet the 18.5 GPM and still have decent micron protection? (setrab is 22 x 7 x 2 roughly)

Q2: Anyone out there know if copper plumb fittings sweated up to make a coolant bypass tube would work? High temp solder maybe? Or maybe brass components with braze welded joints? Any input would be appreciated! Also is stainless really necessary for the up pipes that I see in these kits? Or is just extreme longevity that these guys are after? Are the stock exhaust components in this area of the exhaust all stainless, cause they dont appear to be?

Last edited by ace-tron; 11-28-2009 at 11:01 PM. Reason: more questions
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Old 11-29-2009, 09:48 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Wow sounds very complex. Ace-tron I admire your attempt to create something different. But it seems to me I would want a direct bolt in style. Seems cheaper and less time consuming and all the math is done. I am interested in your complete product and will hopefully be able to view some pix of it.
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Anyone still viewing this thread want to make a better oil cooler homebrewed visit Anderson Custom Electronics - military quality lugs, ring terminals, splice and boot kits. I am working on one and posting progress.
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I just posted more photos and info on my homemade oil cooler at Anderson Custom Electronics - military quality lugs, ring terminals, splice and boot kits.
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2003 250 PSD CC Lariat Bone Stock, Homemade oil cooler, Invisible Brand EGR cooler upgrade, 177K
1987 Pontiac GTA 59K Cherry Red on Black all orig. dig. dash, T-tops, still sweet, had her since 6K (divorce gift to myself in 95).
1971 2DR Cutlass S 350 rocket, needs restored into 442 imposter, one owner, 139K.
1968 GTO convertable, built her from 3 cars, 400, tripower, his and hers dual gate, hideaway lamps, power top/hard glass, HO heads milled under, ram air 4 cam, bored .030 over, 10.5:1 comp., headers, 2-1/2" duals, thrush turbos, fenton mags, 440HP, 4:11 posi rear, faaaasstttt! Gone but will always love her!
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