quick question on belt - Diesel Forum

compton23 · 12-14-2009, 07:18 PM

so has anyone had to change there sirpentene belt and at how many miles. how hard was it and what all do you have to remove first. i looked at it looks like i have to take off fann the gaurds out just to change the belt. any help.

thirdgenlxi · 12-14-2009, 07:53 PM

Pull the entire cooling fan out first.... you don't "have" to (meaning the belt can physically come out without pulling it), but believe me you'll spend 5x the amount of time fighting with the belt to get it off and then even worse back on, than you will to just yank the cooling fan out. Then everything is right there, super easy and you can change the belt in 2 minutes. Pulling the cooling fan isn't hard at all either

For some odd reason, 6.0L serpentine belts seem to last damn near forever... I've never even see one actually wear out and crack from normal wear. Only belts I've replaced were one at around 100k the customer just wanted a new belt, so I put on on for him, them a few on the Econoline vans cuz the a/c compressors seize up and explode all the time (literally... a big hole right out the side of the compressor, every time), so often times it would damage or snap the belt in the process. Other than that though, I rarely ever have to do them. Done alot more belts on the 7.3's, but then again I've also seen alot higher mileage 7.3's than I have 6.0's

ALR1955 · 12-14-2009, 08:26 PM

I've had the belt loosened up when I changed the alternator (twice). I put a breaker bar with an extension on the idler at the front of the engine and was able to do what I needed with the belt while I was going over the passenger side fender area. You should be able to remove and install the belt w/o taking anything off.

thirdgenlxi · 12-14-2009, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALR1955

I've had the belt loosened up when I changed the alternator (twice). I put a breaker bar with an extension on the idler at the front of the engine and was able to do what I needed with the belt while I was going over the passenger side fender area. You should be able to remove and install the belt w/o taking anything off.

Loosening the belt to take an alternator off and actually removing and re-routing the entire belt properly are two completely different things. Loosening the belt is a piece of cake.... I don't even use any tools just give the belt a good yank with my left hand and push in the little locking tab on the tensioner with my right to hold it open.... can have an alternator off from start to finish in about 2-3 minutes. Given it is easier if you're using a ratchet or breaker bar if you have dual alternators cuz there's more space to actually get a ratchet or breaker bar onto the tensioner, but keep in mind the cooling fan shroud butts right up against nearly every pulley on there. In order to get the belt off or on, you have to twist it sideways and slide it between the shroud and the pulley. Crank isn't horrible to get the belt past, but try that with lower pulley on the tensioner that the belt loops around and you'll be wishing you took my advice and just took the cooling fan out from the get go

mesu · 12-14-2009, 09:41 PM

Just changed mine today. Belt was OK but had to change the fan clutch again so while I was there,,,

What thirdgenlxi said is about true. I studied the mess while it was apart and the way you have to twist the belt between the inner shroud and pullies would be really tight. Getting it behind the tensioner "smooth" pully looked fun too. I replaced tensioner, smooth idler, belt, fan clutch, all at once just so I would not have to do it a piece at a time later. I have 135k on my 6.0.

best of luck to you,

Mesu

thirdgenlxi · 12-14-2009, 10:02 PM

^^^ Good idea replacing the tensioner while you're in there... I've seen TONS of them seize up and make for a loose belt (the tensioner part itself seizes, not either of the pulleys). Even broke one in half one time with a long breaker bar and extension just trying to get the tensioner to move enough just to get the belt off. It snapped in half... all the room I needed then, lol

compton23 · 12-15-2009, 11:43 AM

thanks to all you that has help me with this. the problem i am having is the belt sweeks all the time when it was warm out it would at first then stop now it does it all the time when running. it was replace at the dealer about 12 1/2 months ago along with tennsioner and powerstering pump did not find this out untill today.

djshum · 12-15-2009, 06:57 PM

Pull belt and lock tensioner with locking tab. Remove tensioner and route belt, replace tensioner. I don't pull fan or anything else. It isn't that tough to turn belt sideways and route between stator and pulleys. Can do them this way in a half hour.

compton23 · 01-13-2010, 09:04 PM

so i put the belt on back in dec around the 22nd. the old one looked fine but still did it. worked great for about 1500 to 2000 miles now it starts to squeek. comes and goes. the truck has 30,000 on it. its a 2007. i went to the dealer about this they say it was out of warrenty by three days so i say fine. then i find out later that it has had the tensioner power steering pump and belt was replaced so i go back and then they say that it was up two day before i went back. so i say it wasnt the first time because it had a 12 month 12,000 mile so it should have been taken care of then. so they wouldnt cover it under warrenty. so that is why i did it by my self . know i have a extended warrenty it has a $100.00 deduct. so is it worth it or should i just keep replaceing stuff any help.

compton23 · 01-14-2010, 06:04 PM

any body

turbodieselny · 01-14-2010, 06:18 PM

ya leave the belt on just hit it with some wd40 my 6liter makes some belt noise when cold 5 minutes of running goes away ,you mave have a sqealing bearing on one of those 10 pulleys this motors has i can understand why the 7.3 has fewer pulleys than a 6.0

Munfrobie · 01-14-2010, 07:44 PM

A 2007 Diesel? with 30K NO WAY its out of warranty. 5 yrs /100K on that 6.0 baby. Call Ford Complain, and find another dealer.

strokinwartown · 01-15-2010, 06:40 AM

My idler pulley seized up on me (luckily in the driveway). I checked the other idler pulley and it had some play and the tensioner had no spring action. So I replaced the tensioner, 2 pulleys and the belt. 111,000 miles. Pain in the rear. Wish I had tried the remove the fan option! Will do that next time.

compton23 · 01-15-2010, 10:10 AM

i was told the 5yr 100,000 dosent cover belts or parts that bolt on the motor. its the belt not pullys checked them when i had it apart. there is a 100.oo deduct on the 5 yr100,000 and my extended warrenty. so should i just pay it and let them figure it out.

Munfrobie · 01-16-2010, 07:17 AM

Start here to understand your warranty.

https://www.flmowner.com/servlet/Con.../Page/HomePage

IMO basically if it affects the engine and components related to engine function. My power steering pump was not, but if you rationalize what a PS pump controls it makes sense (sorta)

I have had belts, pulleys, FICM, turbo, (and related items) HGs, Glow plug harnesses, oil coolers, Y pipe gaskets and egr valves replaced along with any thing else attached to that creature covered under warranty. Heck I even got Ford to regurgitate the 7/200 extended warranty based on my trip thru the dealer with my service Managers help.

You need to find a more knowledgeable or honest dealer. Or you just got hung up on the 100 dollar deductible. Basically Let Your dealer submit all claims and pay the 100 dollar deductible. Sometimes if the problem is related to an emissions component you get a refund. See Emissions warranty in your guide Example egr valves have no deductibles.