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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-16-2010, 08:46 AM   #16 (permalink)
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belt

I just bought a 06 6.0 so Im a green horn to all of this. I bought the truck and it had 70,000 miles on it and needed a belt, so I made the dealer change it, now I got 99,000 on it and just took it to the shop and had one of the idler pulleys changed no squeaking right, the next day started it again so I sprayed some wd-40 on it and it stopped for a minute and then started doing it ten times louder, so im going to try another new belt I guess.How does that tensioner work, do you put a breaker bar on it to loosen it up just like most cars.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:44 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I just bought a 06 6.0 so Im a green horn to all of this. I bought the truck and it had 70,000 miles on it and needed a belt, so I made the dealer change it, now I got 99,000 on it and just took it to the shop and had one of the idler pulleys changed no squeaking right, the next day started it again so I sprayed some wd-40 on it and it stopped for a minute and then started doing it ten times louder, so im going to try another new belt I guess.How does that tensioner work, do you put a breaker bar on it to loosen it up just like most cars.
Any kind of lubricant on a belt is not a good idea. It will only make the problem worse.

The tensioner has a spot where a 1/2" drive breaker bar will fit, but it is not easy to get to. If you grab the belt from the passenger side, you can pull it back far enough to engage the locking tab on the bottom of the tensioner (that will hold it in place). After you are through replacing the belt, simply pull on the belt again, and the tensioner lock will release.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:54 AM   #18 (permalink)
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thanks for the info, also mine is have a few problems like I see on here, just a few weeks ago it started acting up, it dont like to start in cold below, 40deg not really that cold but it hates it, and it runs rough for about seven minutes, although if I put a light on at night it does much better, mine has no cord. Did not do this when I first got it somethings changed. Can anyone help?
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:37 AM   #19 (permalink)
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thanks for the info, also mine is have a few problems like I see on here, just a few weeks ago it started acting up, it dont like to start in cold below, 40deg not really that cold but it hates it, and it runs rough for about seven minutes, although if I put a light on at night it does much better, mine has no cord. Did not do this when I first got it somethings changed. Can anyone help?
That is most likely a problem with the FICM or the program that it has in it. There is a new program that Ford has released that may correct that problem. Worst case, the FICM may have to be replaced.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:51 AM   #20 (permalink)
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what does something like that cost, any idea? thanks for the help..
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Old 01-16-2010, 11:20 AM   #21 (permalink)
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what does something like that cost, any idea? thanks for the help..
There would be a diagnostic charge that varies from shop to shop to determine what the problem is. The FICM is around $700 plus labor to install, if that is what it needs.
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Old 01-16-2010, 01:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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i think i will just pay the deduct which i really dont want to but guess i will and get it fixed.
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