Replaced Alternator, now Speedometer doesn't work and ABS light is on, HELP! - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 07-17-2010, 01:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Replaced Alternator, now Speedometer doesn't work and ABS light is on, HELP!

I have an 05 6.0 with dual alternators. The top alternator went bad and I replaced it. The engine is running perfectly now, but my speedometer isn't working, the odometer display is lit up, but is not adding miles while I drive, the ABS light came on, and the cruise control isn't working.

Has anybody seen this before?

Thanks!
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Old 07-18-2010, 04:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Try driving it with the alternator connector disconnected. You new alternator could be giving out some RF interference, causing your speedo, and ABS to go whacky.
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Old 07-18-2010, 08:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I agree it sounds like you got an alt with a bad rectifier bridge. Remember run the truck on the batteries only, not run the truck with the batteries disconnected as that could/likely would fry every electronic in the truck.... Change out the alt.
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Old 07-19-2010, 12:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Check the AC voltage level. DO it at the alternator output terminal. 30 millivolts AC is allowable (.030 VAC).
If more than this then you have bad rectifying diodes and the AC voltage is messing with the signals from wheel speed sensor or ABS module.
The other possibility is that rear wheel speed sensor failed or is contaminated and it is not associated with changing alternator.
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank you very much for taking the time to help and reply.

I'm still having problems.

I disconnected all the wires from the alternator and went for a drive; no change.

Checked the AC voltage from the alternator output terminal - reads 0 (I'm wondering if I did this correctly? I checked it at the heavy red output wire, not the sensor wires at the harness?)

Checked DC; its 13 at the batteries with the truck turned off.

With truck running -14.

Turned on the lights and air conditioning, drops for a moment, then back up to 14.

Checked at alternator output terminal- 14.

(note, my meter doesn't read in decimals)

Pulled out VSS; no apparent contamination. Heading to the dealer to buy a new one so I can eliminate that as a potential problem. I also checked the ground for the VSS and reconnected it. It appears fine.

Currently, no speedo, no cruise, odometer display lights up, but is not registering miles.

I've only driven about 20 miles with the truck in this condition. I'm planning to sell it soon and am now concerned this may somehow turn into an odometer discrepancy issue? Has anybody dealt with this before?
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Mine did something similar. It wasnt the sensor in the rear diff, but I replaced it anyway.
It turned out to be a bad or loose connection in the fuse box under the steering wheel. I wiggled all the wires, plugs, and checked the relays and fuses. That seemed to fix it, but I also put another alternator in too.
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I've now replaced the VSS and still no speedo, ABS light is on, and no cruise. FRUSTRATING!

Any other ideas?
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Old 07-19-2010, 05:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Any other ideas?
Have a professional at least diagnose it for you. Hint: all of the modules on your truck that require vehicle speed information get it from the ABS module.
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Old 07-19-2010, 07:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice.

I'm going to the dealer in the morning. I show horses with the diesel mechanic there. He said to bring it in for him to look at and he'd make sure I wasn't gouged too bad on the price.

I think this truck doesn't want to leave me. I've had it for four years and put 71,000 miles on it without a single problem. I listed it for sale last Monday; the following Wednesday the alternator dies, then this happens. Funny how this stuff works out.
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Old 07-19-2010, 07:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'll post back on here after my dealer visit. Maybe somebody else will have the same problem and they can learn from my experience.
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'll post back on here after my dealer visit. Maybe somebody else will have the same problem and they can learn from my experience.
The strange occurrences with this symptom, and I have seen this before ended up being bad grounds or really bad battery terminals. "Dirty power" can screw with some sensors. The last one I corrected had a very poorly repaired positive battery terminal/cable that arced while driving down the road...
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Old 07-20-2010, 12:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm certain it isn't the battery terminals. I take very good care of my truck...its so clean under the hood that you could eat off it. The battery terminals are spotless, the rubber boots have even been wiped down with Armor All.

I checked the ground. I read that its behind the driver's side headlight, a green wire with black stripe. I took it loose, touched up the post and connection with sand paper to make sure the connection was solid.

I'm by no means a mechanic, but I understand how the system is supposed to work. I'm really baffled by this.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Check the AC voltage level. DO it at the alternator output terminal. 30 millivolts AC is allowable (.030 VAC).
If more than this then you have bad rectifying diodes and the AC voltage is messing with the signals from wheel speed sensor or ABS module.
The other possibility is that rear wheel speed sensor failed or is contaminated and it is not associated with changing alternator.

Just wanted to bump this and see what the outcome was? My truck has the same issue. Brand new alternator and it is putting out .067 vAC. Could this be the culprit to my ABS light and lack of Speedo?
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You wouldn't be the first to get a bum alternator right out of the box. Especially if it's from one of the corner part stores.

Make sure you wait for a couple minutes after starting before you check the voltage. The alternator does not kick in until the glow plugs cycle off. Could be up to 2 minutes. I'd also take the alternator in and have a proper diagnostic test performed.

Lastly, don't mess around with a bad alternator or battery very long. Either can kill an FICM in pretty short order.
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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If your meter doesn't read decimals, I would suggest getting a better meter. I have never seen one that doesn't and you can pick them up pretty reasonably anymore.

Just an absolute shot in the dark. But how about a computer reboot. Try disconnecting both batteries and taking all power off for maybe 30 minutes or so.
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