6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Why would you do this? From what I remember 100% antifreeze has a higher freeze point than a 50/50 mix.
__________________
'05 Ford F250 6.0 CC LB 4x4
'10 BMW X5 Diesel
'08 BMW 535xi
'85 Porsche 911 Carrera
'66 Porcshe 911 long term project
'76 Jeep CJ7 current project
It won't hurt anything per se. The 50/50 mix is the idela because it is the best mix of antifreeze's ability to allow much colder temperatures of the coolant without freezing and water's ability to absorb heat. Straight water is a better coolant than antifreeze, but antifreeze can tolerate temperatures below 32 degree F without having to worry about things like a cracked block or head. Before summer I'd try to get the mix right if possible. That's when straight antifreeze isn't going to be your friend.
'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, pillar vane front rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
Until the Ford Gold turns into Ford Gold Sludge and takes out your oil cooler, starving your EGR cooler, rupturing it and taking out your head gaskets. Other than that, you'll be fine.
__________________
2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, pillar vane front rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
I was not thinking straight when I filled up the system. I am going to drain it tomorrow, get the proper mix with destiled water, and refill the system. I was wondering if the symptoms of the truck were due to me overlooking such an important thing. The truck does not heat up unless I am actually driving it. When I stop at a light it stops heating!
How many gallons of concentrate did you put in? Unless you drained the block and the heater core, you didn't get all the water out of it. If you want to keep your truck, you'll do another flush and refill it with a good ELC. If not, start saving up for the multi-thousand dollar repair job that's coming.
__________________
2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
IMO running over a 60% mix WILL hurt things. 100% antifreeze has a low heat transfer coefficient and it is quite a biit thicker so the water pump is not going to flow nearly as well.
It is a very poor idea. Critical areas of the engine will not be able to dissipate the required amount of heat. Who knows how much damage will occur - that clearly will depend on how it is driven and for how long.
I do agree that percipitating out the silicates is a high probability.
I don't get how some guys think they know more than companies that spend a crap load of $$$ on R&D. 50/50 is good then hmmmm 100% must be better.....ah duh.
I hope no one misconstrued my comments to think that 100% must be better. I spent enough years in chemistry classes to know about freezing point depression / boiling point elevation calculations. I understood the OPs comments to mean he accidental forgot to dilute to an acceptable level and wanted to know if it was going to hurt to leave it in until he remedied the situation. My advice stands, though - flush it and do it right with an ELC.
__________________
2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
I put in three gallons of Motorcraft Premium Gold Concentrate and has driven it about 400 miles since. The truck is starting to not heat up while just sitting in the driveway idling. It is not until I start driving on the road that the temp gauge starts showing any temp. The heater works while driving, but it does not when at a light. I mentioned earlier that it was a mistake I made not to measure the antifreeze, not that I considered 100% to be better than a 50/50 mix. I will flush the system today and get it right. Thanks RT for always providing good advice without passing judgement.
With a typical drain you are only going to get about 3 gallons, 3.5 if you pull the LH block drain, which is the easy one. System capacity is supposedly 7 gallons. So realistically, if you only added 3 gallons then you are looking at a mix of more like 72/28 assuming the existing coolant was 50/50. Still not ideal, but not as bad as the straight antifreeze either.
Your heat issue could be a couple of things. Air would do that, as would low coolant level. It could be the overly rich antifreeze mixture is not carrying heat away as well as it should, so the heat is staying int eh engine instead of being allowed to transfer. Cold as its been you aren't going to get overheating, but come summer that could be a concern.
'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, pillar vane front rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
Last October I switch the OEM thermostat for one from Advanced Auto Parts, later I realized that the overheating was caused by my head-gaskets going bad two months after having them done. I could not believe it!!!!
How can I purge the system?
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
