Second Bosch 140 amp alternator, still only have 13v - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 02-24-2013, 02:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Second Bosch 140 amp alternator, still only have 13v

I just put another Bosch 140amp alternator in the truck since the last one came with a faulty regulator. The new one is only showing 13.3v while driving. The batteries are new.

Any advice on what else it might be?
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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A couple of questions.
1. Are you giveing enough time for batts to build back up after start and glow plugs are finished cycleing?
2. How are you getting your reading DVOM at alt or system reading from monitor or scanner.
3. Were all cables and connections cleaned beforre test.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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1) yes indeed

2) System reading from an Edge Insight CTS

3) I pulled them and cleaned them today when I put the alternator on. They are tight.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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1) yes indeed

2) System reading from an Edge Insight CTS

3) I pulled them and cleaned them today when I put the alternator on. They are tight.
You may have already done this, but have you checked the ground connections at the frame, body, and block (not at the battery)? One quick way to see if grounding is an issue is to use 1/2 of a set of jumper cables (might as well use the black cable) and connect one end to the alternator housing and the other to the passenger side battery negative terminal. Does your charging voltage increase?
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by skanj0 View Post
You may have already done this, but have you checked the ground connections at the frame, body, and block (not at the battery)? One quick way to see if grounding is an issue is to use 1/2 of a set of jumper cables (might as well use the black cable) and connect one end to the alternator housing and the other to the passenger side battery negative terminal. Does your charging voltage increase?
I'll try that in the morning. Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd verify voltage output directly at the battery too with a multi meter. I would assume that the Edge is likely accurate, but not knowing what else is wired in to where it is sensing voltage from you could be seeing voltage drop through other parts of a circuit and not getting a true reading. It's like when you wire a volt gauge you should always wire it directly to the alternator's gauge pin (if it has one) instead of just plugging it in to a 12v keyed spot in the fuse box or finding a 12v keyed source under the dash somewhere and using it. Without knowing the voltage draw of other things hooked to the circuit, the resistance of the wiring,etc. the reading from those other sources can be erroneous.

Also, how new is it? Sometimes a brand new unit needs to run in for a bit before it starts regulating properly. That sounds weird, but I've had that happen on two different alternators and once they had been spun up and down a few times they put out 14.2-14.4 volts like nobody's business.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This is actually the third alternator with low voltage output.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Then it may be time to look for a voltage draw from the vehicle.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKOPerformance View Post

Also, how new is it? Sometimes a brand new unit needs to run in for a bit before it starts regulating properly. That sounds weird, but I've had that happen on two different alternators and once they had been spun up and down a few times they put out 14.2-14.4 volts like nobody's business.
It's brand spanking new. Only been on the vehicle for two days now.

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This is actually the third alternator with low voltage output.
Yup. The first one was the factory alternator and it died after trying to keep a pair of really dead/old batteries alive in extreme cold. The first Bosch had a bad regulator out of the box.

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Then it may be time to look for a voltage draw from the vehicle.

That sounds like a heck of a task......
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Another thing to consider is having the alternator tested. That's a quick way to know if the issue is a draw or the unit itself.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Well Junkers I never said it was gonna be easy but it may be necessary if you find no chassie ground problem and the alt tests good.

It is indeed a long and complex process to test for draw, there are a lot of circuits involved, a good schematic will be needed as well as knowing the volt/amp values for each circuit.

A good starting point is unplugging each fuse one at a time with a volt meter inline with a disconnected battery gound and observeing the volt readings.
Somethig to remember is there are 3 main types of circuits. Always on; key on and run on. In the fuse box there will be allways on and key on circuits, you will need to now which is which. Once all fused circuits are eliminated then you need to start checking unfused circuits.

Something else to remember, there are shorts to ground and shorts to power. Different causes but same results, loss of battery voltage.

Good luck
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If you are relying on the OBDII output to tell you what the voltage is, then it is notoriously low by .3V - .5V. If your batteries are new and fully charged, the output may well be only a true 13.8 volts or so. The only way to tell is to run the engine at 2500 rpm and see what the actual voltage is at the batteries.

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