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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-17-2013, 02:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Should I sell it?

I bought my 2007 F-250 6.0L last May. Gorgeous truck...8" Pro-Comp lift 38's. Had 49,000 miles when I bought it. Thank God I bought the extended warranty. 2 weeks after I bought it I had to replace the EGR cooler, EGR valve, FICM and an ABS wheel speed sensor. The EGR cooler/valve weren't covered. I replaced with the Bulletproof cooler. Since then I've had to replace the HPOP and oil rail plugs. Now I've got 55,000 miles on it with some major repairs under my belt, and now it's back in the shop to get the head gaskets and oil cooler replaced. In anticipation of the head gasket repair I bought the ARP head studs and had them ready to replace the head bolts. After the valve covers were off I was shocked to see that the heads had already been studded! I asked the service guy to pull up the warranty history on the truck and it turns out that at 10,000 miles the engine was pulled for a bed plate repair, and the heads were updated with studs at that time. Going down the list of common problems with the 6.0, it sure seems like I've repaired just about everything on the list, but I'm scared to keep the truck, even with the extended warranty, because of the possibility (strong) that parts that aren't covered will continue to fail. Has anyone out there gone through the extent of repairs that I've faced in the first 6,000 miles of ownership, and had success with the engine afterwards? If I sell it now, I'm going to be out the cost of the warranty plus the $3000.00 in non-covered repairs that I've had to make. That'll make for a $6500.00 hit if I sell it. Don't know what to do...
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
RT
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I wouldn't - you've got all the big stuff out of the way. Get the guys to put the blue spring update in and any other little stuff while its apart. Then, just keep up with the maintenance. You've already fixed everything that should break.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sounds too me the heads weren't properly prepped prior to the reinstallation last time. If the engine gets too hot no matter if it is studded or not it will pop the head gaskets. If you could eliminate the egr cooler getting stopped up I think your truck would never give you anymore problems. The bulletproof oil cooler is a great option to help keep your oil cooled
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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There are just a few things wrong with the 6.0 but you have some of them out of the way, here are just a few more. When the motor was casted they did not get cleaned well so they never remove all the casting sand in the motors some did some did not. The Ford Gold Crap coolant is the other thing this coolant is only good for max 30-40K then it needs to be flushed and it is a real killer if you pull because of the heat and the silicates drop out quicker so ELC coolant and a coolant filter are a must so here you go!!!! 1. oil by-pass to clean the oil the stock filter (use only Ford Filters) cleans the oil to 20 microns the by pass cleans to 2 microns these injectors run in oil and try and use Syn oil but you must change at 5k because of the shear of the oil by the injectors and remember these motors push 15 to 18 gallons of oil a minute and use a 5w40 Syn oil because your injectors they will love it at start up. 2 Gauges-- I like the Edge Insight CTS, will give you a lot of information I run 8 things on the Edge fuel on the column boost in the dash and volts in a power port the gauges in the dash just take up space and look good, you need to know your temps, ECT-EOT i think 10* if more your coolers are starting to get plugged doing 60-65mph after 2-3min on flat ground so if you work your engine under heavy load (WOT or on a hill with a load behind you) to test the deltas. If you are near a 15 degree delta without working it hard , you will most likely be over under an actual load. 3. Fuel pressure gauge under 45lbs kills injectors and over 70-75lbs may blow injector o-rings and if you are under 45lbs Ford has a new reg kit to up the pressure this is a must and run a cetane boost in the fuel to clean the turbo and EGR valve and about every week drive it like you stole it after it warms up, that takes about 20-30 minutes of driving to get the heads warmed up or get the oil to around 185-190* and never go over 28lbs of boost with studs maybe 30-32lbs use only Ford or Racor fuel filter change fuel filters at 15k and if you pull change at 10k 4. Coolant filter a must to remove the casting sand and all the other carp in the coolant to try and keep the coolers clean. 5. ELC coolant change, do a coolant flush to remove the Ford Gold Crap coolant one reason these coolers fail.
2 stroker
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You will spend more $$ on this truck.
Count on it. If what you've been through
makes you uncomfortable, SELL IT!
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 Stroker View Post
There are just a few things wrong with the 6.0 but you have some of them out of the way, here are just a few more. When the motor was casted they did not get cleaned well so they never remove all the casting sand in the motors some did some did not. The Ford Gold Crap coolant is the other thing this coolant is only good for max 30-40K then it needs to be flushed and it is a real killer if you pull because of the heat and the silicates drop out quicker so ELC coolant and a coolant filter are a must so here you go!!!! 1. oil by-pass to clean the oil the stock filter (use only Ford Filters) cleans the oil to 20 microns the by pass cleans to 2 microns these injectors run in oil and try and use Syn oil but you must change at 5k because of the shear of the oil by the injectors and remember these motors push 15 to 18 gallons of oil a minute and use a 5w40 Syn oil because your injectors they will love it at start up. 2 Gauges-- I like the Edge Insight CTS, will give you a lot of information I run 8 things on the Edge fuel on the column boost in the dash and volts in a power port the gauges in the dash just take up space and look good, you need to know your temps, ECT-EOT i think 10* if more your coolers are starting to get plugged doing 60-65mph after 2-3min on flat ground so if you work your engine under heavy load (WOT or on a hill with a load behind you) to test the deltas. If you are near a 15 degree delta without working it hard , you will most likely be over under an actual load. 3. Fuel pressure gauge under 45lbs kills injectors and over 70-75lbs may blow injector o-rings and if you are under 45lbs Ford has a new reg kit to up the pressure this is a must and run a cetane boost in the fuel to clean the turbo and EGR valve and about every week drive it like you stole it after it warms up, that takes about 20-30 minutes of driving to get the heads warmed up or get the oil to around 185-190* and never go over 28lbs of boost with studs maybe 30-32lbs use only Ford or Racor fuel filter change fuel filters at 15k and if you pull change at 10k 4. Coolant filter a must to remove the casting sand and all the other carp in the coolant to try and keep the coolers clean. 5. ELC coolant change, do a coolant flush to remove the Ford Gold Crap coolant one reason these coolers fail.
2 stroker
I hope that the filter can handle that Carp All kidding aside you have many of failure prone items covered,now just maintain the the truck to a tee and you should have a long term runner.
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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See my sig....latest repair was instrument panel replacement. $1,200. But, as with the other repairs it runs great. You can probably count on $2K per year in maintenance after the broken stuff is fixed.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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OP, Grab a set of gauges my friend (Scangauge 2 or Edge Insight)... You will need them to keep an eye on the coolers, FICM and HPOP. Those gauges can keep you from taking a $6500 hit! ... It is a good little power platform, BUT, you have to keep an eye on her/ and, what she is doing. Drive it like you stole it!!!
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