Should the unison ring spin on the center housing - pic - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 08-06-2011, 07:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Should the unison ring spin on the center housing - pic

The unison ring is tight on the center housing. I would have to tap it down just to get it to seat, this is after cleaning. I assume it's supposed to spin on the housing or else what would be the point of the cam, that and the vanes won't open if it doesn't turn freely right?

I've ran a file around the ring on the housing but it's still tight. I've hit it with a sanding drum on the die grinder too. I can go more just want to verify. Could hit the inside of the unison ring too.

You can see in the pic it does not sit all the way down. At this point it's tight.

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Old 08-06-2011, 07:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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From what little of it that I can see, that center housing is toast as far as corrosion is concerned. Otherwise, closely ispect the inner diameter of the unison ring for cracking at the end of the vane slots.
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I got it cleaned up better, found just the right bit in my die grinder arsenal It's all nice and free now and everything fits.

It's surprising this truck even ran, the unison ring was froze solid to the housing. Yes there was a fair amount of rust on the housing, but I've got it pretty well cleaned and I'm going to try it. Just can't spring for a new turbo right now.

Need to pick up some of that high temp anti-seize tomorrow and get it all back together, I need this truck for work.
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Oh btw, there's no cracking on the unison ring.
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Old 08-07-2011, 08:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Excellent. I have had quite a few where the ring had to be pried off with considerable effort. Not always, but sometimes when the rings are stuck like that I find several cracks in the unison ring, I attribute that to vanes that are bound by rust. In those situations you also need to closely inspect the tabs on the vanes for wear as well as the control slot on the unison ring.
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Old 08-11-2011, 09:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Question:

I've been reading up on turbo cleaning and many have indicated applying anti-seize to various parts of the VGT. Since all of those "moving" parts are bathed in diesel exhaust, wouldn't applying anti-seize compound just collect soot and further complicate things? (i.e. Cause parts to seize even faster)

I'm approaching the point of needing to clean my turbo and want to make sure I use the correct process. Thanks for your input!
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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That too was my concern, that stuff is sticky, you can dilute it down with WD-40 to get a real thin layer but it won't last as long, I decided to clean everything up real nice and coat everything in a nice layer of graphite which when rubbed creates a smooth slick DRY surface however I do not know how long it will last as most of the loose particles will be immediately blown out the exhaust, has anyone thought about plating?, maybe chrome would get too hot but perhaps nickel? Just a thought
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:02 AM   #8 (permalink)
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1 - You do not actually need apply anything to the CRH, unison ring or the turbine housing. With the new treated housings this is not really necessary anymore.

2 - If you do, apply a very light coating of anti-seize. DO NOT goop it up.

3 - The idea was originally to prevent rust during storage of the turbo. Navistar instructs to use anti-seize compound. Ford instructs to douse it with oil.

4 - As a tech I apply only a light coating on the turbine housing and on the outer CRH where they meet to aid in assembly and add a temporary aid in rust formation. At this point doing so is mostly habitual behavior.
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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ford_doctor,

Thank you for your post, that helps. I can understand the use of oil which would burn off right away. The anti-seize treatment seemed like it would collect soot and escalate the problem. (I swear by its use everywhere else though.)

Happy Truckin,
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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PoppaSmurf, I have had turbos out and apart that were serviced this way. The compound does not collect soot and foul the turbo like you may be thinking. It also is does not really last like we would like to think it should to provide a protective layer... wishful thinking will get us nowhere here. The newer treated CRH assemblies are the only effective way to overcome the corrosion issue.
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Old 08-17-2011, 02:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I did put nickel anti-seize on mine, on the unison ring, the housing and the other side that the vanes go on but not on the vanes. Might help for awhile we'll see.

As for the truck, I've gained back 3-4 miles per gallon since the turbo cleaning. Back up to 20 mpg on the highway with a 16.4 overall mostly running around town. Very pleased about that as my mileage had dropped off over the last year or so.
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