6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super-Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Hi Everyone,
I Just Got A 03 F250 A Week Ago And Now Im Learning Very Fast After Reading Forums That I Need To Do "REMOVED DUE TO RULES VIOLATION" And Head Studs,
My Question Is Do U Really Have To Lift The Cab Off To Do This Or Thats Just What They Do At The Dealership?
The Exhaust Shop Told Me That Ford Does This Because They Had So Many Workers Comp Clams On Bad Backs Because For Having To Get Up Into The Engine Bay To Do The Studs That They Just Remove The Cab. Is This True And Can U Do It With The Cab Still On?
Any Help Would Be Great, Im Trying To Get This Done Before Any Problems.
Thanks Guys
Last edited by RDG : 10-15-2009 at 10:32 AM.
Reason: Please read the rules before posting
IIRC, Ford does not spec lifting the cab. But it is the easiest way to do this job. IMHO, you either need to lift the cab or pull the engine if you are doing studs because the back studs are hard to reach with the cab on and getting proper torque on the studs is critical to doing the job right.
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03, AIC, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, Tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance), ARP studs & some "other" work done by River City Diesel, AFE PG7, Fumoto valve, B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges, Voyager brake controller, DIESELSITE Coolant filter, Timbrens, Rancho RSXs, Michelin XPS Traction's, a whole bunch of "bling", Connex 4300hp, JL Audio 275w amp w/ 12" sub, Alpine door and rear seat speakers.
There are ways to do the job with out removing the cab of the truck but its hard to do. One method is to remove the existing bolts, the rear ones will not be able to come all the way out, remove the heads, install new gaskets, put the rear studs through the head (with required lube, etc), hand tighten all of them in, the torque away...
There is a posting somewhere with some pics or at least a much better explanation. I am going to do mine and have not determined if I should pull the cab or not yet. The problem is once you get the heads off, if you can't get the studs back in you wasted a munch of time and have to pull the cab anyway....
have not been there yet but has anyone consider making a cut out above the studs that need more cleareance and making a cover plate afterwards ?
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FEBRUARY 2004 F350 CREW DUALLY,50K, 6.0L/6 SPEED/3.73/2WD,
EGR SPOOL, INSULATED WRAP CAC,BUTTERFLY DELETE,ACCUFAB INLET ELBOW,MUFF TUBE,BED COVER,BREATHER VENT MOD,OB1308 BY-PASS FILTER BASE,velvet ride shackles, tranny cooler/filter,COOLANT FILTER,redline wetterbetter,1704A SUPERCHIP, 22MPG EMPTY @ 55MPH in cruise. Last fill up calculated @ 18mpg Hobbies- sticking my head out the window like a dog
I explained my experience a while back. You ABSOLUTELY do not have to remove the cab or engine. This will take you a good 3-4 days to do.
Remove the transmission rear mount bolts and jack up past the crossmember. Take a ratchet strap on the drivers side and pull the rear of the transfer case (or transmission) towards the drivers side. The engine mounts are rubber and will let the engine twist. This will accomplish two things...(1) it will move the lower right hand head bolts away from the HVAC box, and (2) it will move the last lower head bolt on the left away from the firewall.
The left head bolts will all come out, and then the head. You WILL have to zip tie the lower 4 or 5 headbolts on the right head and pull them with the head. The same goes going back in. Zip tie the lower studs in the right head, and install. The left head will sit on the block, then install the studs. You need to remove the fan and shroud, as I found it helpful to stand on the steering stabilizer.
One thing to note....I had a really bad experience with the assembly lube supplied with the studs. The nuts started to chatter at 90 ftlbs no matter how much lube I smothered on the threads and nut surfaces. The best thing I used was Lucas Oil Additive. I throughly lubed all surfaces with Lucas, and the nuts did not chatter until after 240 ftlbs. Here again, this is my experience. Others may have had good luck with the ARP lube...I did not.
I hope this helps. It is not an easy job, but you can do it without pulling the cab. I have no access to a lift, so I was left doing it cab on. Trust me, you can do this...it's not that hard. Send me a PM if I can help any more.
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2005 F250 XLT Super Duty Crew 4WD. White/Silver. K&N intake. Hypertech programmer. No muffler. Stock everything else. Other trucks: 1979 Kenworth W900A, 1982 Kenworth Cabover (BJ and the Bear) 1997, 1998, and 2000 Kenworth W900's. All Caterpillar Power. 1979A model just got marine application 2-piece pistons, nozzles, and ATAAC. Sure is sweet!!! 500 to the ground, and no smoke!
Transporter and Operator of a Bauer Built Championship Unlimited Tractor Pulling Sled for the United Pullers of the Carolinas, Region IV affiliate of the National Tractor Pullers Association (NTPA), and damn proud of it!!!!
That was GREAT information ericjack. I hope I don't have to do studs but great info. to remember just in case I got 7.3 but could be just as tight in there.
thanks for all the help guys, i'll keep u posted on how it goes.
i did notice this truck was chiped before i bought it and it has 140,000 miles so im wondering if the head studs have been done already? what do u guys think?
You can pull the engine out the front easier. Pull the radiator and core support, drop the oil pan and she'll slip right out. To check for studs, look at the outside edge of the heads towards the top, under the valve cover lip. Do you see a large bolt head, or a large nut on a stud? There's your answer.
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2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03, AIC, MBRP turbo-back exhaust, Tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance), ARP studs & some "other" work done by River City Diesel, AFE PG7, Fumoto valve, B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges, Voyager brake controller, DIESELSITE Coolant filter, Timbrens, Rancho RSXs, Michelin XPS Traction's, a whole bunch of "bling", Connex 4300hp, JL Audio 275w amp w/ 12" sub, Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 
I got 7.3 but could be just as tight in there.
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