6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
While towing with my 04 psd I kept getting the smell of coolant but the temp gauge didn't move. When I got home I checked the degas tank and it was below the min line. I added some and researched the issue on the net. I was thinking the egr cooler but pulled my egr and saw no moisture. So I continued to drive it normally and had no other issues until I towed again. As soon as I'd load the engine going up a hill I'd get the coolant smell. I'd always back off and didn't seem to lose any coolant. I noticed a little puking and decided to change the degas cap. Same thing happen the next time. So I'm out of warranty and have no good diesel shops or dealers near by. I want to make sure that it isn't the oil cooler or some other cause. The truck has just over 80k on it and is bone stock. I find it hard to believe that it's the HG's since the truck is so well taken care of. The truck has been fairly problem free. So is there any way besides pressure testing to rule out another cause? I know there are tons of threads on HG's but I also see alot of guys still had puking after the hg's were done. I know there was a tsb about keeping the coolant level lower than the max line and I've been doing that. I also see know smoke or an other symtoms other than the smell of coolant a a small bit of puking.
I'd really appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks
ok...I'll give you a bump......I don't know sheit about a 6.0.....but I would definately check all my hose connections
i don;t
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2000 Limited, 118K, 7.3L, 285 Cooper ATR's, super chips 1705 on tow/performance, Bilsteins, Isspro EGT/Boost/ Trans temp.
1997 4runner,5spd,TRD supercharged,Bilsteins,H&R coil springs front and rear
1968 roadrunner,383,4spd
1970 roadrunner,383,4spd,pistol grip,58k 0riginal miles
1970 Charger,383,4spd,pistol grip,my first car
It's not a hose leak, somehow the coolant temo is being raised. Making it over pressurize the degas cap. When I load the engine while towing only I get the smell. It's pretty fast too, and goes away quickly if I get the rpms down.
A cracked EGR cooler could leak during higher engine temps. As if you were driving without a trailer it would not leak, but once the trailer is hooked up and the engine temp goes up a notch, the crack will expand and start leaking.
Just a guess, i seen it happen on the dually at work.
__________________ 2003 F350 6.0 TURBO DIESEL CREWCAB, EDGE JUICE W ATTITUDE, 4" TURBOBACK, AIRAID STAGE 1.
While towing with my 04 psd I kept getting the smell of coolant but the temp gauge didn't move. When I got home I checked the degas tank and it was below the min line. I added some and researched the issue on the net. I was thinking the egr cooler but pulled my egr and saw no moisture. So I continued to drive it normally and had no other issues until I towed again. As soon as I'd load the engine going up a hill I'd get the coolant smell. I'd always back off and didn't seem to lose any coolant. I noticed a little puking and decided to change the degas cap. Same thing happen the next time. So I'm out of warranty and have no good diesel shops or dealers near by. I want to make sure that it isn't the oil cooler or some other cause. The truck has just over 80k on it and is bone stock. I find it hard to believe that it's the HG's since the truck is so well taken care of. The truck has been fairly problem free. So is there any way besides pressure testing to rule out another cause? I know there are tons of threads on HG's but I also see alot of guys still had puking after the hg's were done. I know there was a tsb about keeping the coolant level lower than the max line and I've been doing that. I also see know smoke or an other symtoms other than the smell of coolant a a small bit of puking.
I'd really appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks
Matt
Coolant level should be at or below the min. line.
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2005 Lariet, 6.0, 3:73 1969 Mach 1, 428 CJ
1971 Triumph Trident(SOLD)
2007 Road King flhp
2007 Jazz 5er, 11k
173rd Airborne
I already replaced the degas cap as I posted in my first post. So if my coolant level is too high and I load the engine I'm going to lose coolant anyway? So there may be no issue at all? How can I id a bad cooler other than looking in the egr valve space for moisture. I'm by no means a mechanic but very mechanically inclinded. I work on gas turbines so I feel competant to work on my 6.0 to an extent. Should I just find a place to pressure test the engine? If so will they be able to positivly id the source?
It's not a hose leak, somehow the coolant temo is being raised. Making it over pressurize the degas cap. When I load the engine while towing only I get the smell. It's pretty fast too, and goes away quickly if I get the rpms down.
Matt
Just want to comment about the highlighted portion here... Coolant temp being raised is not the only thing that will cause puking... In fact, it probably isn't the main cause. Rather, it is combustion gases entering into the cooling system causing the overpressurization of the degas...
That said, if you have your coolant level set higher than the "min" line on the bottle, your situation may indeed be nothing more than too much coolant in the degas bottle.... That bottle is too small to begin with and if filled to near the "max" line, does not leave enough room for thermal expansion..... IMHO, the first order of business is to lower the coolant level to at or just below the "min" line and see how that affects the puking....
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
OK, so lets rule out the obvious first. I think the degass cap was covered already LOL (if you could only be so lucky)
You know the harder your truck works the higher the exhaust gas temp gets. IMO, the least you can do for your truck is monitor the EGT so you know when to back down a bit.
Ooops, I digress.
When your EGT goes up it stands to reason your EGR cooler has to work harder. TWO things can happen.
1) The coolant can flash into a vapor when passing through the cooler due to several reasons such as high EGT, contaminated coolant system. If its flashing to vapor
2) If the cooler has failed the exhaust gas can pressurize the coolant side.
Lots of varying opinions on all the forums of EGR cooler vs. head gaskets. The debates go on an on and ..............
Hopefully, you are just pushing your truck to hard and the EGT is creeping up on you.
I can tell you my 06 was doing what your is, the dealer did the cap, the tank, then egr cooler, then it still had the smell of coolant while towing, i belive there was 18,000 on the clock,Dealer replaced both heads along with gaskets, no more smell, I hope!
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2011 KR Dually CC 4X4 Royal Red
2006 KR Dually CC 4X4 ,True Blue
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2005 Eddie Bauer Excursion 4X4 ,White
All purchased from Bobby Williams At Sunrise in Fontana
Just want to comment about the highlighted portion here... Coolant temp being raised is not the only thing that will cause puking... In fact, it probably isn't the main cause. Rather, it is combustion gases entering into the cooling system causing the overpressurization of the degas...
That said, if you have your coolant level set higher than the "min" line on the bottle, your situation may indeed be nothing more than too much coolant in the degas bottle.... That bottle is too small to begin with and if filled to near the "max" line, does not leave enough room for thermal expansion..... IMHO, the first order of business is to lower the coolant level to at or just below the "min" line and see how that affects the puking....
Ok, I do currently have the coolant level too high. I wasn't aware of the level TSB until recently. I was under the impression that the smell was coming from the high temps boiling the coolant rather than over pressurizing. I see nothing in the coolant and nothing in the oil. I never have the issue unless I'm towing heavy up a steep grade. How do I go about monitoring EGT? Should I lower the coolant and load up the trailer and go for a ride? If I were to PT the coolant system how would I determine where the leak is?
Ok, I do currently have the coolant level too high. I wasn't aware of the level TSB until recently. I was under the impression that the smell was coming from the high temps boiling the coolant rather than over pressurizing. I see nothing in the coolant and nothing in the oil. I never have the issue unless I'm towing heavy up a steep grade. How do I go about monitoring EGT? Should I lower the coolant and load up the trailer and go for a ride? If I were to PT the coolant system how would I determine where the leak is?
Matt
Do youself a favor.... Get an EDGE Insight monitoing system with optional EGT probe.
I've read the second thing to check when venting coolant on a 6.0l (after coolant level) is the fan clutch. The clutch on my truck was replaced for the same symptoms you describe. Light load the airflow coming in the grill will keep the coolant temp down, heavy load, needs the fan pulling lots of air. It's an electronic clutch that locks-up when higher coolant temps are sensed.
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- 1996 F-350 XLT 2WD CC DRW, 7.3l PSD / E4OD, 120K miles
I can tell you my 06 was doing what your is, the dealer did the cap, the tank, then egr cooler, then it still had the smell of coolant while towing, i belive there was 18,000 on the clock,Dealer replaced both heads along with gaskets, no more smell, I hope!
This is my fear, since out of warranty and no dealer support. Did the dealer PT the system first and the follow fords troubleshooting guide? My dealer would do what yours did and start replacing things without finding the real cause. Since the repair cost is out of my pocket I want to avoid this. I'm planning on trading the truck in a year or so but need to use it for towing and don't want to screw the next owner either. It seems that a competant dealer is a major asset when having a 6.0. The sales dept was great but service just doesn't get it. I want to do a coolant replacement and flush but I'm having issue with finding the right coolant. When I go to the auto parts store they try and sell me a coolant they say mixes with any coolant. From what I've read you need the ford gold stuff or a zerex product. Does anyone have and clarification on this?
You need a G05 coolant. Aside from the Ford stuff, Zerex is the only other brand I know of but there may be other brands. Or, you can go to the ELC coolants that IH uses in their version of this engine (which will require a coolant flush to use). The "mixes with all coolants" type stuff should be avoided at all costs....
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
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2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
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