6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
I discovered the blue flexible connector between the turbo and the pipe from the intercooler was abraded, and was failing. I had to replace it ($75!!!). There was a warning on the hose that said do not overtorque. Can anyone tell me the torque spec for the clamps? Thanks in advance!
2004 F-250 Lariat, srw, short bed, 4x4, Purchased in Feb. of 2006. 6.0, auto, 3.73.
Actually I use 109 in/lb. 9 ft/lb is correct. When I convert 108 in/lb it comes 8.999999679171601. So I go 109 which comes out to 9.0833330095343. To me almost 9.1 is better than being short of 9. Also, I do not know why, but when I put a new boot on I have to torque it several times to get everything squished down to where I like it.
9 ft*lbs = 108.0000 in*lbs. FYI, ft/lbs or in/lbs isn't the correct unit. The "/" means divided by, torque is a force times (*) a distance.
Your torque wrench is not accurate enough to be worried about 9 or 9.1 ft*lbs, although I understand your point.
I agree on re-tightening after a heat cycle or 2.
You are correct on the / versus *. Easier and faster to type. I mean the same thing. Actually I must be an old, thick Portagie. From the old school where you round up. 9ft lb = 108.0000038502 when you go to the web site. That is why I use 109. Thank you for the reply. Glad you where able to understand my ramblings.
The biggest problem I have with my clamps is the one on the tube. Once I get the turbo torqued down it usually stays. The one on the floppy tube seems to come lose more often. The floppy tube needs to be attached to the motor some how. It would work becasue there is enough give in the cooler boot. Also, the motor does not move that much. Anyway Monday I tow the Wicked Kitty over to Betabel and after that heat cycle I may give it one more twist on the wrench. I use to use a 1/4 ratchet and tighten them as tight as possible, and with the glue I add, they stayed in place. Now using a torgue wrench they are much tighter and I should have more piece of mine. Also I have added A CCV so the oil has disappeared.
The old blue boot that causes the heartache can be a tricky thing to install. I found out the hard way, $82.00 dollars later, that you have to center the clamp over the ring inside the boot. I also found out the ring is not centered between the lines. On my boots so far the clamp has to up against the line near the mouth of the boot. Even on top of the line works. I installed the clamp to close to the inside line, and since it is off the center of the ring, it started to slide toward the turbo. When that happened another boot from my friends at Ford.
Now I'll understand what it means when I see a "Free Grampy Jim" bumpersticker.
It does make me wonder how a guy with over 5k posts gets banned though. A guy so senior doesn't seem like the type to make the types of bashing, personal assaults that usually get people banned. It makes me wonder if any of us are really safe...
'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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