6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
Haven't posted in a while, been building a fabulous stereo for the truck.
While towing a jeep up to Yosemite, the turbo hose blew off repeatedly. The first time it blew, I couldn't find the turbo side clamp. At first I thought the clamp was gone... probably 10 miles from the nearest off ramp, thought I was screwed. Found the clamp on the passenger side frame rail. Ended up unhooking the jeep and driving it seperately over the grapevine. If I had been towing a trailer, I would have really been done for. What a pain! What I found was the hose was very slippery, like it was teflon coated. Even when tight, the clamp would slip around. I bought a replacement hose in Fresno, that helped me get home. The hose was $64.
So, I set out to make a fix.
When I began thinking about the forces involved, it's suprising the hose holds at all. If the turbo is making 25lbs of boost, and the outlet area of the turbo is 2 inch diameter, that's 1 inch radius, squared, or 1 * 3.14 * 25 lbs = 78.5 lbs of force. Think of hanging 78 lbs from that hose with well oiled metal surfaces!
Fabricated a 1/4 inch aluminum plate to bolt on the face of the turbo housing, then used a 1/4 inch alumimum angle bolted to the plate to get the geometries right for connecting a toggle clamp to the turbo pipe. Connected the toggle clamp to the turbo pipe using rivnuts. Came out pretty clean, the pipe isn't going anywhere now.
Have a look at the photos. Turbo fix photos (several photos, so use the forward/back buttons to view)
Ken
Yeah, I'd say that's going to hold it...even if a nuclear bomb goes off inside your intercooler tube!!
Duncan
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The 1997 F250HD Crewcab: Picture
The 2000 XLT Excursion <font color="red">(SOLD)</font>: Picture
The 2003 F250 Crewcab 6.0L: Web page
The 6.0L Bible: Web page
The 6.4L Bible: Web page
Nice fab job with the AL bracketry. Mine hasn't popped yet, but when it does...well ill worry about it than. Question. Why did you set up a filtration system for your coolant? Is that needed? How did you hook that into your cooling system? It seems like that might restrict your cooling...?
ryan
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That's great, but I think you just voided your warranty.
Harry
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Now that's almost funny [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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2004 F-250 CrewCab Short-Bed PSD/Torqueshift
Shadow Grey , FX-4, sunroof, w/ 18" wheels and every single option except the clearance
lights and dual alternators.
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Haven't posted in a while, been building a fabulous stereo for the truck.
While towing a jeep up to Yosemite, the turbo hose blew off repeatedly. The first time it blew, I couldn't find the turbo side clamp. At first I thought the clamp was gone... probably 10 miles from the nearest off ramp, thought I was screwed. Found the clamp on the passenger side frame rail. Ended up unhooking the jeep and driving it seperately over the grapevine. If I had been towing a trailer, I would have really been done for. What a pain! What I found was the hose was very slippery, like it was teflon coated. Even when tight, the clamp would slip around. I bought a replacement hose in Fresno, that helped me get home. The hose was $64.
So, I set out to make a fix.
When I began thinking about the forces involved, it's suprising the hose holds at all. If the turbo is making 25lbs of boost, and the outlet area of the turbo is 2 inch diameter, that's 1 inch radius, squared, or 1 * 3.14 * 25 lbs = 78.5 lbs of force. Think of hanging 78 lbs from that hose with well oiled metal surfaces!
Fabricated a 1/4 inch aluminum plate to bolt on the face of the turbo housing, then used a 1/4 inch alumimum angle bolted to the plate to get the geometries right for connecting a toggle clamp to the turbo pipe. Connected the toggle clamp to the turbo pipe using rivnuts. Came out pretty clean, the pipe isn't going anywhere now.
Have a look at the photos. Turbo fix photos (several photos, so use the forward/back buttons to view)
Ken
[/ QUOTE ]Hey...Will ya make me one? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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o4'f350psd torque shift 3.73w/ls lariat cc4x4 longbed 2tonewhite/silver srw w/clearance lights. All possible options-no sunroof.4 1/2"lift edge plush ride,bilstein shocks, mickey thompson classic 2's@16x8 w/bfg mud 35" TA's.Bullydog power hound chip w/full exhaust( oh mama )!Full metal jacket bed liner,the X-monitor by BD power and Prodigy.Manual hubs. Oh yeah, and a red 02'ZRX1200 Pics from Bytor and the Snowdog rushfan
Guys -- One side note about the intercooler hose blowing off. My wife always makes fun of me for reading these forums. Thinks we are all truck geeks. (possibly?) Well, while driving through Montana, flat road, unloaded at 75, we experienced the lound BANG and woosh with loss of power. This had never happened before, but I recognized the symptoms from this forum. I told her "yeah, sounds like the intercooler pipe between the turbo and the cooler" as we were slowing down to pull over. Sure enough, 10 minutes later we were back on the road. She was amazed I knew what it was just by the sound. Now I'm allowed to read the forums as much as I want. Knowledge shared amongst everyone here saved our vacation -- that should be justification enough to spend as much time as you want on the computer looking at "truck geek stuff"
Steve
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2003 F-350 6.0L Fx4. AFE, DPPI turbo back. Supercab, LWB
6" Front Deaver Springs
8" Rear Deaver Springs
37x13.5R17 Toyo MT on 17X10 Eagle 114
4.56 gears, Detroit Locker in Rear, ARB up front
VIAR 550C, two 5-gallon tanks under bed, inverter, 6A on-board battery charger, coolant filter, quick disconnect jumper cables, Zoodad mod, bumper spaced 1", rear shock mounts rotated, too much more to mention.
8400 lbs empty weight
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Looks like you might have something here...are you going to make anymore? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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I thought about that, but because the turbo pipe needs to be modified with the rivnuts, it would be hard to make a simple kit...
If you want to do it yourself, the parts are all from Reid Supply www.reidsupply.com. I cut the aluminum with a bandsaw, made a wood template first to get the shape right. Took 4 hours or so taking my time.
The coolant filtering is hooked into the heater hoses, so it doesn't restrict anything. I figured, what the heck, if the water pump will last a bit longer why not. Gives me things to do on the weekend.
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