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Turbo sticking?

7K views 77 replies 7 participants last post by  Sean007 
#1 ·
I have a 2004 F350 dually with the 6.0. I have done arp head studs, egr full delete, 4 inch exhaust turbo back, rebuilt injectors, FICM with Atlas 40 program no tuner and blue spring mod.Recently my turbo started acting up (powermaxx) it was sticking. Sent it off to be rebuilt and found that crank was bent replaced it and all new seals and bearings. Put turbo back on and truck doing the same thing. I did find a leak on cooler and I had another cooler and changed it out and all new boots.Truck will run but boost is erratic and more than it used to be for low rpm. Call a couple places and they said the pcm needed to relearn the VGT to drive it normally for couple of days and see if it gets better. I have the AutoEnginuity program on my laptop and hooked it to truck and drove it at low boost vgt percentage was around 45-59 and in the green on graph but when it would start to act up and high boost 75-89 and yellow on graph. Also i have noticed after truck has been running for a while and shut it off it is hard to start or takes longer to start. I have also replaced the up pipes to one piece pipes when I did studs. Had another truck that did the hard start and it turned out to be HPOP was going bad. Could the HPOP be going bad and causing turbo issues as VGT solenoid controls oil flow in turbo. I am at my wits end on this truck any and all help would be surely appreciated.:frown:
 
#2 ·
Depending on whether its the old style or the new style pump it could be the HPOP is going bad and causing your long crank condition. The old style was an aluminum pump with an iron cover. The new style is an iron pump with an aluminum cover. The new style rarely, if ever goes bad. The old style are pretty famous for failing.

I do not think it has anything to do with your other issue though. First I would inspect the wiring to the VGT solenoid and see if it is damaged. Second I would try unplugging the EBPS and see if the problem gets better. If so the EBPS is either dirty or bad. You can try cleaning it and the tube first, but if that doesn't fix it the sensor is bad.
 
#3 ·
I have the old style HPOP. I watched ICP on laptop and it is 1050-1100 at idle and 3200 plus when under pull. It could be getting week after getting warm. However more concerned with turbo. I did check wiring and I replaced vgt plug harness in the past. I unplugged it while running and rpm's would change. Leaning towards the EBP pipe clogged (fingers crossed) have new sensor. Haven't had time to clean pipe but when I do I will post results. Thanks for the help TKO.
 
#4 ·
What is the best way to clean that tube? Remove it from the manifold or try to clean it on the truck. I was looking at mine over the weekend and it has a couple of 90 degree bends in it that would make it hard to clean from one end only. I didn't have time to remove my degas bottle to get to it easily so I am leaving the tube cleaning for later.
 
#5 ·
I've always used a round engine cleaning brush. You can get an assorted kit from Harbor Freight for next to nothing. I would just clean it on the manifold. So long as its not obstructed its fine.
 
#6 ·
I took tube off today it was dirty not sure if stopped up but any how soaking it in a bath of degreaser and will reinstall tomorrow and post results. The Sensor is new. I think the HPOP is good looking at numbers and what they should be. After soaking tube I am going to trace VGT wires the plug I replaced some time back but have not tracked wires to PCM. Will post all results tomorrow.
 
#7 ·
TKO: Thanks. I have one of those brush kits and I assumed that iwas what to use, but wasn't sure.
 
#8 ·
Got pipe clean and back on. While inspecting MAP sensor found hose was cracked on one end plus had warranty on sensor so replaced hose and sensor. After doing that noticed cooler hose at cooler on passenger side had a bad spot. So did not run truck ordered BD Diesel cooler boot kit should have it by Thursday and will install and post results. I did look at wires and didn't see any damage but will thoroughly inspect that as well. Keeping fingers crossed.
 
#9 ·
I got new boots today will get them on in the morning. Have question though someone was talking about oil pressure. I looked at low pressure oil pump and it is part of the front cover and would be hard to believe that it would go out. I am going to clean oil supply tube to turbo and make sure it is not clogged. Just think turbo is just not right but with all the leaks I have found maybe they were compounding issue with turbo. I am going to do a cam reset and post results when get it back together.
 
#10 ·
There have been instances of the LPOP going bad, but you would have a no start condition. Often it is caused by a lifter failure that dumps needle bearings into the pan and they lock up the LPOP. But, without the LPOP to prime the HPOP you will not build ICP and the engine will not start.
 
#11 ·
TKo that is what I was thinking. After I get new boots installed and reset KAM and then if it still does the same thing I am going to call foul and point at turbo. I don't think there is a issue with VGT wiring could be wrong but with truck running can unplug VGT solenoid and you can hear rpm's change. I think the piston/crank is still sticking and if so will definitely send back to be fixed or shop will be purchasing me a new turbo. I do have the updated oil feed tube and am going to clean it and make sure that there is no obstructions on intake where it goes in at. Just tired of screwing with this truck seems like it is good for 12-14 months then something comes up. Real pain in the butt!!!
 
#12 ·
Got all new boots on and did a KAM reset. Then of all things batteries were low and fried my starter. But did get it started with new batteries(warranty) and checked all numbers and everything is where it is supposed to be. I drove it a little and no issues like before. Didn't drive much because starter needs to be replaced it has warranty too. Will get it replaced tomorrow and do more driving. Keeping fingers crossed it is all good.
 
#14 ·
I think normally they are in the 1,000psi range. AT WOT you should see something like 3,500psi.
 
#16 ·
Well guys I am in need of serious help. Been driving truck of and on for the last few weeks with no issues. So thought it was time to take road trip with camper NOT!!! First 30-40 miles no issues then back to the over boost and no power regardless on flat ground or pulling hill. Max speed around 60-65 mph and max rpm 2-2100 thousand and no power. Boost all over the place 19-33 psi. only code i get was for EBP. Can cooler stopped up cause this or crack in cooler pipes? It does sound like it is either blowing or sucking on drivers side. Turbo is working and VGT is working. It is just strange that it started this again after running good and turbo psi has been back where it has been in the past when everything was running right. Somebody please help don't know if it is electrical or mechanical. Only thing I haven't changed is pipes cooler is different but not new.PLEASE HELP DESPERATE!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#17 ·
First, what is the oil temp? I'm wondering if the oil is overheating and the PCM is derating the engine.

Second, I would inspect the wiring to both the EBPS and the TVCS. The intermittent nature would seem to make an electrical gremlin a possible candidate.
 
#19 ·
Turbo Vane Control Solenoid. Its the solenoid in the turbo that moves the vanes. Its a two prong plug, and you need to peel back the split loom and really look at the wires. I've seen them with insulation cracked all the way back into the main harness.
 
#22 ·
That is a good idea, but I don't think it is going to help your problem.
 
#23 ·
If the oil is overheating and causing a derate its because the OC is clogged and can't cool the oil. Once it reaches 250 the PCM derates it. If the temps are good then oil's not the issue.

Synthetic is definitely a good idea. While a good conventional like Rotella T5 is probably adequate for normal conditions when changed at the proper interval I certainly like the added security that I get from synthetic. I've been running the Rotella 5W40 T6 for about 3 years now and really like it, especially in winter weather.
 
#24 ·
I agree synthetic is the way to go. I use the same as TKOPerformance Rotella 5W40 T6 with Rev-X added from my local diesel performance shop.
 
#26 ·
There's no cleaning it. If its clogged it must be replaced. The coolant passages are extremely small, and can clog easily from unfiltered coolant which has casting sand and silicates formed in the coolant through oxidation. All 6.0s should have a coolant filter installed. Its the first line in preventative maintenance.
 
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