Is this the typical striction issue? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-31-2013, 12:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Is this the typical striction issue?

Just started doing this outta the blue. Starts easy, idles smooth for 7-10 seconds, then instantly starts running very rough till the truck is warmed up. Not my truck but sounds like this:
Mine runs fine for the first few seconds though.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Wink

RX for that= REV-x OR Archoil... I have used them both and they get the job done. This is what I do. I put it in in OCT. and leave it in ALL winter. I do not always plug it in because of different places/ situations keep me from doing so. I don't have those issues and use the products as a preventive/ starting aid. Be aware that you will have ext. warm up times when not plugged in. The products do get it fired up and running right off the bat. $ 50..00 for the REV-X/ Archoil is less and $160 for a set of reliable gauges/ Edge is great/ cost a little more, BUT, will be the best money you will ever spend. Migrate to syn oil or syn blend engine oil, they prefer it. The gauges will let you know what (SHE) is up to!!!...Not that I don't trust (HER)???
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Never had to plug the truck in, I live in central florida. I have an edge insite to monitor things and a sct for tuning and reading codes. Also have the egr deleted, studs, blue spring, tuned fcim etc. My PCM is under 3 months old, and my FICM was just at swamps 3 months ago also. About a year ago I replaced the ICP and I took apart my main engine wire harness and checked for chaffed wires and rewrapped the entire thing. I will be doing that to the injector harness this week when I have it apart to replace yet another oil cooler. I keep up on my maintenance, use all ford filters and synthetic 5w-40. Last week when this started, I only had one code. P0488 for the exh cir valve. I have since removed the valve and unplugged it to eliminate it from causing problems. Still have the code, but I know the valve cannot be doing anything now. This week while it is apart, I will pull out the IPR and check the screen for trash. I will also check the turbo out. I had it off and cleaned it just over a year ago, but I suspect there might be a problem there too. I seem to have a loss of power and the exhaust tone sounds different. I also cannot build more than about 19-20 pounds of boost. Of course I will also check all the pipes and connections. I welcome anyone's thoughts and comments. I will post back anything I find when I get it apart.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I had about two hours of free time today. I got everything off but the intake manifold and oil cooler. So far everything looks pretty good. The three plugs going into the FICM were in place and the connectors and the pins in the ficm look good. The boots on all the piping are good, and pretty much everything else looked the way it should. I only found a couple of small unrelated things. Two of the three bolts that hold the turbo down were half backed out. Maybe some blue locktite should be used? Some how a screwed up and busted the two valve cover bolts that hold the rear ficm bracket. They broke flush with the cly head. I am pretty much screwed here because there is no room to get a drill in there to try an easy out or drill it out and heli-coil them. I am gonna need to find a new way to secure the ficm. I pulled out the IPR to inspect the screen for debris and damage. The screen was intact and only had a small amount of fine particles caught in it. I have not torn down the turbo yet, but the blades show no signs of damage. There is some play back and forth with the shaft, but there is no signs that the impeller has contacted the housing. Anyone know how much movement is acceptable? I still have to pull apart the injector harness to look for chaffing. I was hoping to find something obviously wrong, but haven't found anything yet. I pulled codes again before I did anything. Only had the one for the bypassed exh cir throttle and glow plug #4.
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Old 02-01-2013, 12:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Check you hot side CAC boots. Pull them off, clean them, and then flex them and look inside. If you see a bunch of cracks its time to replace them. They typically are junk after 5-6 years.

You can pull the plug out of the side opposite the turbo vane controller. With a magnet you can easily move the piston back and forth. If it's hard to move or sticks its probably coked up. You can clean it if it isn't damaged, check the unison ring carefully; the actuator arm hole can egg out. You can now buy parts for the turbo, making getting it back up and running a lot cheaper.

On those broken bolts you could try using a chisel to cut a slot in the top of what's left, and then use a punch or chisel to tap it around until you get something you can get vice grips on. Another option if you have the ability and access is to weld a nut onto what's left. Those bolts thread into the rocker carrier, not the head, which is aluminum, so the weld won't stick to it.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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All the boots look good, and the pipes are clean.

I will tear down the turbo and see what all is coked up and how much play is in the shaft. I saw a rebuild kit somewhere online the other day, I think it was less than $200. i looked like it came with new bushings etc. Does it take any special tools to redo the turbo? Does it need to be rebalanced?

While it might need a good cleaning out again, I am still concerned that I have an injector and or electrical issue. It might just be plain old striction. It seems ever where I have read, folks have a hard time starting(mine doesn't). Also, why does mine run smooth for the first ten seconds or so then like the flip of a light switch run like crap? I have new ford filters, T-6 and some rev-x to put in it once its back together. If it still has problems, I will have to find a shop that can hook it up to a scanner and get sensor values. The local dealers here are sketchy and I don't know of any diesel shops.

As far as the busted bolts, There wont be any easy way to get them out with out drilling. They are flush with the head. I can't remember for sure, but I can't pull the rocker carrier with out losing the seal between the head and the block right? Really do not want to have to put a new head gasket on that side but short off pulling the cab, I really don't have a way to get access to those two broken bolts.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
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All the head bolts run through the rocker carrier. Basically to remove that you're taking the head off. Any shot with a right angle drill?

There is an endplay spec for the turbo, not sure what it is though. Usually they just need to be cleaned and inspected inside the turbine housing though, unless they have been coked up for so long that it has caused damage.
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'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I don't think there is any thing wrong with the turbo at this point. I took it apart and everything moved freely. There was even still anti-seize from over a year any a half ago on it. I cleaned it up and have it ready to reinstall.


This is what it looked like.


Between work this week I will pull off the valve covers and physically check the injectors then begin to put things back together. If it still has problems then I will probably have to find a shop to take it to for diagnosis. I only have a SCT and edge insite, so I am limited as to what I can read with those two.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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That's actually really clean. Everything looks fine, I'd say the turbo isn't an issue so long as the vane control solenoid and exhaust backpressure sensor are both in good working order.
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have been pretty busy at work, so I haven't had much time to work on the truck. I did get the new oil cooler in and got the valve covers off and oil rails off. Physically the injectors look fine. I used a meter and they all ohmed out at .8 on both 1/2 and 3/4 pins. So electrically the injectors look good. Some how I managed to ding up one of the standpipes, so I will need to order a new on in the am. Other than tearing apart the injector harness and cleaning out the EBP tube It is ready to go back together.

I really wish I had done some more diagnostics on it before I tore it apart. I probably have striction in an injector or two and it is gonna suck having to pull crap apart again. Maybe I will get lucky and that Rev-x stuff will clean it out.

As far as the busted valve cover bolts, I was able to tack weld them on to the valve cover so I can secure the FICM properly. I guess I will have to RTV the gasket in the areas around there to help keep the cover from leaking. Not the way I like to fix things, but I just don't have time to pull the head to drill out the busted bolts.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah, troubleshooting injectors can be a crap shoot anyway. Three different shops told me that even if you pulled them and had them flow tested there could still be problems. In flow testing they are measuring max flow and looking for broken parts. All that could check out, but you still have a low speed or hot/cold issue that they can't diagnose. The more I talk to people in the industry and learn about our injectors the more it seems that though costly and more complicated than the older Cummins injectors their lifespan is about the same. It sounds like 100-150k is about the limit of consistent, trouble free operation. Maybe if synthetic oil was used from very early on, as well as fuel system cleaner you could see more life than that, but the truth is that injectors are ultimately a wear part like a lot of other things. I think even a properly maintained engine is going to go through 2-5 sets of injectors in its life (before needing a total overhaul or long block replacement). They are just another high maintenance cost we pay for having the power to move mountains.
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Finally had a day off from work so I could finish this thing.
Got it running. Seems to run really good once at operating temp.
I let the truck cool down and restarted it a couple of hours later. It still had a little bit of a rough idle till the temp got up, but it was not as bad as before. It seems like it has no loss of power which is good.
I guess I will drive it a few hundred miles a give that rev-x a chance to work. If it still does it them I will need to do some further diagnostics.

To sum things up, I never found anything obviously wrong. I stripped down the entire injector harness and found no bare, chaffed or pinched wire. Visual inspection of injectors, rail etc found nothing. Cleaned out the turbo. Put in a new oil cooler which was needed, new t6 rotella, red Cat coolant, ford fuel and oil filters and just for the hell of it some power service in the fuel tank.
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