VGT Solenoid Troubleshooting - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 09-17-2012, 06:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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VGT Solenoid Troubleshooting

I suspect that my VGT solenoid may not be working or may be working poorly. It seems like the vanes are stuck at mid travel. It seems like there is more lag than usual at the bottom end, yet with the throttle pinned I'm still only seeing a max of about 23 lbs. of boost. Typical max for the truck was 28 lbs. Boost reading is via Edge monitor.

Is there a way to test the solenoid without pricey electronics? I currently have no codes, and can read and clear DTCs with my Edge or SCT. Is there a spec resistance value for the windings I should see between the pins for example? Is there a specific voltage, etc. I should see at the plug during different operating conditions?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I had a stretch of road today where I could really put my foot into it and saw a max reading of 25lbs.

I'm also getting an off and on hiss from the turbo when idling, which then will change over to a droning that makes the truck sound like its got a Cummins in it (I dig that part of it). Possibly the solenoid cycling on and off? Is that normal?
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you hear a hiss, you probably have a boost leak. Check the usual suspects: boots and cold side pipe. Especially if you have the plastic pipe. Also might want to check the bellows on the Y-pipe. Look for soot on the firewall or hook up a smoke machine to the exhaust side.

If all that looks good, try dropping the cat if you still have it. If it plugs up it'll restrict flow and kill your boost.

The droan is probably the turbo cycling. Later strategies cycle the turbo in an effort to keep it from sticking.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I just replaced both the turbo side boot and the IC side boots on the passenger's side due to cracking.

I also recently replaced the y-pipe as it had completely failed at the bellows, now running a modified piece from Elite with stainless steel flex couplings instead of bellows.

I do still have the plastic pipe on the driver's side. I've held off replacing it because at some point I want to upgrade to a Banks Technicooler, which has new pipe with it. I felt all around that thing though and no leaks I could detect. I would assume I could feel airflow if it was cracked, etc.

The sound really seems to be eminating from the turbo. Could the o-ring seal in the compressor housing be leaking? That's about the only place left I can think of.

Also, worth noting that when I swapped the boots I noticed some oil in the turbo outlet and the pipe. There's usually a little in there, but this seemed like more than usual. Any thoughts?
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you had the turbo pipes off, I'd check all those joints. They have to be lined up just right to not leak. The faces need to be very square and flush with each other. The Marmon clamp won't pull a mis-aligned joint together.

The oil's from the crankcase. Before I removed my CCV from the intake, I would have a fair amount of oil in the low spots.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, that's where the oil is too; in the low spots.

Double checked everything, damn if I can find a leak. I am totally anal about how I install those boots too. The clamp has to be perfectly centered between the white lines on the boots, and the boots have to be perfectly square on the tube and the turbo and IC. Actually the new boots have a ridge molded inside them that makes them pretty idiot proof on the pipe end, because it locks them into the recessed in the tube.

Did you do the BD kit for the CCV?
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I was referring to the up-pipe and down pipe to turbo connections on the back side of the turbo. Those joints have to be darn near perfect for them to seal properly.

My CCV mod is home made. Ran a hose down to a catch can mounted on the frame rail . Made it from 3" PVC (maybe 4", can't remember) capped on both ends, vent off the top for gases, valve on the bottom to drain oil, and a baffle inside.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Oh, okay, I can double check them, but I am pretty anal about those too. I always make sure the flanges line up perfectly before I even slide the marmons on them.

Having bought a catch can for my WRX I have to say I was a bit disappointed at the cost for what you got. I like your idea and think I know enough to make my own. They want over $300 for that BD kit. Sounded pretty steep to me. I guess when you put the word Diesel on something it like doubles the price...

It's strange, today it seemed like everything was perfectly normal again. I didn't check max boost, but off idle and part throttle boost production and rate of rise seemed normal. The engine was cold when I first noticed the sluggishness, I wonder if that was the issue...
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'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, Warren Diesel 175cc injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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In hindsight, I'd skip the catch can and just go with a draft tube. I drain it every time I change my oil and the amount I get out is piddly.
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