What Alternator works in 2006 F350? - Diesel Forum

rcgreg · 03-16-2009, 05:16 PM

My stock alternator is dying - down to an ouput of 11.6V according to the Ford guys. They want $500 Plus to put in a stock 110 amp unit, the local FLAPS has a 135 Amp unit for $270.00 - parts computer says this is for a truck with a dual alternator setup. Can I use the 135 Amp unit in a single alternator setup?? The 135 unit has a three pin plug receptacle, the stock unit appears to only have a 2 wire harness - haven't taken off the plug yet to see if it is 2 wire or 3 wire receptacle - assuming the plugs are compatable - any problems here I should know about???

Thanks !!

RcGreg 2006 F350 Dually 6.0 PS

fordboyyfm · 03-16-2009, 07:20 PM

no that one is the second for the dual trucks, do you run allot of electrical stuff?

rcgreg · 03-17-2009, 07:58 AM

Not a huge amount - the object was to recharge the batteries in the short trips from home to work - I guess I will stick with the 110 amp unit then.

Thanks !!!

**bugman** · 03-17-2009, 11:31 AM

If you want to try a high output alternator try one from DB ELECTRICAL, you will also have to buy the upgraged wireing harness from them.

Jim

rcgreg · 03-17-2009, 12:49 PM

Hmmm - that looks like it could work for me, I'll check out DB - thanks for the info !

-RCGreg
2006 F350 Dually 6.0L Diesel with Tommy Gate
Looking for heated seats !! (It's cold up here in the winter!)
Calgary Alberta

fordboyyfm · 03-17-2009, 07:13 PM

if your batteries are low then they will need to be charged with a battery charger or they will never charge all the way back up.

zimmdairy · 03-17-2009, 09:08 PM

Auto value seems to have a good alternator with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty. I had an 03, ford replaced the alternator just over 12 months later it was junk.

rbutler46@yahoo.com · 03-17-2009, 09:52 PM

Down here in Texas nearly every town has a starter /alt shop that rebuilds yours.

Check out your local I bet there is one or two around.

rcgreg · 03-18-2009, 08:13 AM

I talked to the friendly folks at DB Electrical and they made me a very attractive package deal on the high AMP alternator and wiring package. The cost is not that much more than having mine rebuilt - and twice the output - that should allow for better charging in a short period of time. Both batteries charge up to the exact same level on the battery charger - measured with the Negative lead off of course! 12.81Volts. Thanks everyone for their advice, I'll follow up with how the high AMP Alternator works out.\

RCGreg
2006 F350 6.0L Dually with Tommy Gate - looking for heated seats!

**teamroper60** · 03-18-2009, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcgreg

I talked to the friendly folks at DB Electrical and they made me a very attractive package deal on the high AMP alternator and wiring package. The cost is not that much more than having mine rebuilt - and twice the output.....

If I may make a suggestion........ When you get that alternator and before you install it, take it someplace and have it tested.......

A group of us bought the 220amp alts from DB. When they were delivered and before we installed them we had them tested, only to discover they didn't put out anywhere near 220amps......... Not even near 200amps..... So where that company is concerned, buyer beware....

FTG-05 · 03-18-2009, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teamroper60

If I may make a suggestion........ When you get that alternator and before you install it, take it someplace and have it tested.......

A group of us bought the 220amp alts from DB. When they were delivered and before we installed them we had them tested, only to discover they didn't put out anywhere near 220amps......... Not even near 200amps..... So where that company is concerned, buyer beware....

Or at least make sure it comes with a "proof of performance" test tag like the one shown below.

Good luck.

Al

rcgreg · 03-23-2009, 08:38 AM

I installed the Alternator with the help of a buddy in less than 20 minutes. Here is the technique that worked for us.

1.

IMPORTANT !!!! Remove both battery negative cables.
2. Use a long round sharfted screw driver slipped betweent he alternator pulley and drive belt to slip the belt off the pulley.
3. Tie the drive belt off to prevent it slipping off any of the other pulleys. I used a ratchet strap tied to the lugs on the front wheel. No great pressure required, you just want to keep it in postiion.
4. Remove the 3 alternator bolts - strange that they're metric not SAE.
5. Remove the alternator cables and attach them to the new alternator.
6. Bolt the new alternator in place using the reccommended torque.
7. Untie the drive belt and using the round shaft of the screw driver slip the belt back onto the new pulley. Be careful not to damage it.
8. Replace the negative battery cables and your done!!

I can't believe that the local Ford dealer charges 1.8 hours to do this !!!
YIKES !!!!!!!!

TESTING:
Test the ouput of the alternator by measuring between the post of the red cable ON THE ALTERNATOR and the NEGATIVE post of the #1 battery. You should see close to 14 volts and rising as the batteries charge. Measure between each connection to see if you get a voltage drop (usually .01 volt) accross it. If you see anything greater (Such as .1 Volt) you need to clean up that connection as there is resistance developing due to corrosion at that connection. It may seem a small amount but it adds up by the time you get to battery # 2.

I discovered that one cable hooked to the positive terminal of battery #1 has a flat metal part, like a strap - Does anyone know if this a 'fusable link' or more likely a repair of some sort. The cable goes into the main harness. If it is a repair I'd like to clean it up before it becomes a problem.

FTG-05 · 03-23-2009, 03:17 PM

Did you have it tested or did it come with a factory test tag? If so, what were the results?

Thanks,

Al

rcgreg · 03-24-2009, 08:03 AM

Hi AL, No time to have it tested - and there was no tag on it, physically it appears the same as the 135 AMP units. So I can't tell you the exact ouput, but it is bigger and charges faster at a lower RPM than the 110 unit, and it was cheaper than what they sell the 135 AMP units for locally, so for me it was a good deal. It is a different part number than the 220 AMP unit so I wasn't expecting it to be right up there AMP wise. If you really need all those AMPS then for sure your going to want a performance tag or test prior to install. It meets my needs as it came - so I'm happy. I can now make short trips in the winter and be sure my battery is charging - even with the lights heater etc on.

jimmy · 03-24-2009, 11:47 AM

When you remove the belt on a 6.0 there is a nifty little steel strip on the tensioner that locks tensioner in released position. It doesn't look like it has a purpose but it does. The lock strip is on the left side of tensioner as you look down at tensioner standing in front of truck. On the tensioner body is a tab that sticks out and the steel strip will push to the right and when you relax your grip on pry bar or breaker bar the steel strip will hold tensioner in the released position. The steel strip pops out when you pry tensioner towards release position and its ready to go again.

I do not for sure if a dual alternator setup has a different tensioner