6.0L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.
HI- I have a 2006 F250 PSD- 6.0 L I accidently ran the fuel level low (sputtering) last week and the Water in Fuel light came on later that day last week. I assumed some minimal amount of water got into the fuel from the bottom of the tank and keep driving. Well the truck start running really back so I changed the two fuel filter and bleed fuel line at the fuel plug under the driver's seat. Now the truck will not start if it sits for more that 4 hours. I run the battery down trying to get it started. I noticed I don't hear the normal clicking sound when the wait to start light is on like before. Any ideas? Thank you in advance for your help.
B....If HFCM cap/o ring are ok (+ top one) ..cap
screwed all way snug (not cross threaded) then seems no air would get sucked in. Look for updates. Meantime....
No clicking sound with WTSL on...If you cant hear fuel pump running recheck connections etc. Maybe intermittant pump problem? HFCM Fuel pump Good luck!
Thank you OT for the information to help me with my truck. I bought replacement fuel filters from NAPA. The fuel filter under the hood looks similar to the old one but the one under the truck is not the same as the old one. The old one was much more complex in design.
You bring up a great point in I could not get the cap on the big filter all the way screwed back against the housing. There is a 1/16 gap between the black plastic cover and the housing but the cap became really hard to screw. It doesn't seem to leak fluid.... I did use the new gaskets. .
About the fuel pump, I did remove the cap and filter under the hood and turned the ignition on and the fuel filled the bowl really well for about 15 minutes.
I thought I used to hear a clicking sound like injectors clicking or something while the wts light was on- that's when the truck would start easily.
Now if I turn the key for a while it will turn over about 10 seconds and then sometimes run for 5 seconds and die out ...
I am not sure who makes the filters for NAPA, but it may be some manufacture other than Racor, in which case the lower filter does not have the water barrier which makes them look different and is not the filter you want to use. That being said, your problem is most likely the lower filter cap not being completely seated and the HFCM is sucking air.
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2004 F-350 Lariat, Supercab 4X4 FX4, DRW
Dark Toreador Red/Silver, 6.0L, Torqueshift Auto, ESOF, 4.10 LS, Camper Package, Dual Alternators. Build Date 6-8-04, Eng 5-28-04, Lance 9.5 Ft Camper.
Dude - As many other posters have said - Ya just gotta use the OEM Filters for Fuel & Oil - too much of the other stuff is built close - but not close enough to work in these critical areas. Go buy the right stuff from your Local Dealer and I think you'll find that that cap screws back on as it should and the truck will start.
Bin Der, Done Dat - got the cheaper filters out in the garage - ready for the garbage man.
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2006 F350 Dually 6.0L Tommy Gate Lo0oking for heated seats !
I changed the two fuel filter and still no luck. When I turn the engine over for about 5 seconds the truck will sputter and die. Will not run. Any other ideas?
B...Q..when u changed f.f. again..did you inspect drained fuel? Draining some in a clear jar make's it easier to see water n fuel. Maybe long shot on bad fuel, but worth double checking. Curious...
You said..bleed fuel line at fuel pump..I assume that means the plug u unscrew to drain fuel from hfcm before taking cap off? Sorry, no real help here. Good luck!
I have seen this issue pop up when the o-ring on the HFCM cap is pinched. When you changed the filters this last time, did you lube the o-ring before you installed the cap? Did you get the cap seated good against the HFCM housing this time?
__________________ 2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
Hello Everyone, would the fact that the truck would put out a lot of black smoke when quickly accelerated. A black thick cloud. Other than that it ran fine. Would this have anything to do with my no-start now?
yes, I drained fuel after changing the filters and the fuel is homongenous. I stirred it around in the glass jar and very little seperation- maybe a few tiny bubbles along the bottom of the jar. I don't know how the diesel should look but this fuel is pretty thin- a similar consistency to gasoline. I thought diesel would be a little thicker...
How can I get the old fuel out of the gas tank? I've tried sticking a hose down the hose where we fill up the tank but something stops it about 12" in.
Hello everyone, I just wanted to let everyone know that helped me on this forum that I have gotten my truck running again. It was a bad FICM - detected during the cranking (out of family voltage reading)
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2003 Toreador Red/Arizona Beige CC, DRW, Lariat, FX4, 6.0 PSD, Torqshift, born early Feb. 03; AIC; Silverline turbo-back dual exhaust; 155cc injectors from Full Force Diesel (Casserly); SCT with tuning by Tony Wildman (Total Diesel Performance) & Innovative Diesel; ARP studs; Dfuser regulated return; AFE PG7; Fumoto valve; B&W hitch, Di-Pricol gauges; DIESELSITE Coolant filter; Timbrens; Rancho RSXs; Michelin XPS Traction's; a whole bunch of "bling"; Connex 4300hp; Pioneer DEH6100BT; JL Audio 275w amp driving a 12" sub; JL Audio 50wx4 amp driving the Alpine door and rear seat speakers. 380.3hp/786.7ft-lbs (on my tow tune!)
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