02 7.3 Stops running when hot !!!!! - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 06-18-2012, 12:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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02 7.3 Stops running when hot !!!!!

I have a 2002 F350 7.3 that stops running when it gets hot pulling a trailer. I changed the cps and checked the oil. I can drive it with out the trailer and it does fine but i don't run it hard. Hook the trailer to it and withend 5 miles it will shut off just like I turned the key off and will not restart until it cools off. There is no codes stored. I started it today and let it idle for an hour with no problems. I covered the Rad with a tarp and ran it at about 2000 rpm to heat it up an withend 5 min it shut off with no restart. I shot a small amount of starting fluid in it when it quit an it would hit on it so I think something is getting hot and shutting the fuel off. Any ideals on what i need to look for? Thanks
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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A question and a comment.

What are you using to pull codes? A generic scan tool won't work on a Powerstroke.

Please don't use starting fluid on a diesel equipped with glow plugs. You could cause serious damage or suffere injury.

You need to understand how the injection system on your truck works. It isn't just a lack of fuel as you surmised, but could be a failure of the electronics or a problem with the HP oil system.
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Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I use a Mac Tool scaner.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The IPR valve solenoid can be heat sensitive. Something about electromagnetic coils - they get weaker when hot and one on its last leg can work when the engine is cold and then not have enough oomph to close the valve when hot.

Set your Mac scanner up to monitor ICP sensor data and IPR duty cycle and watch it when it dies - if the ICP data is going down and the IPR duty cycle is going up - might be a good indication. If when you are trying to restart it, you can't get to 500 psi, that's your problem.
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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What RT ^ said. The solenoid coil could also go open when hot and "heal" itself as it cooled off, although that should set a code for IPR circuit open.

If that doesn't track down the culprit, check your EOT sensor and ICP sensors. It's also possible that there's a wire shorting somewhere on the engine harness as things get hot enough.
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Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm glad I found this thread, as I am having a similiar problem that only occurs towing my camper. Keep blowing the PCM fuse (#24 under the hood) after a long towing session. Quits right before I get to my destination, or right before I get home. Only time it does it. Found a few other threads on the different sensors running from that fuse to run down this weekend, and will add the advice below to the list.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks RT, What should the fuel pressure read on the scaner idling and what should it reach on a quick throttle responce? I will check the data tommorow and see what comes up.

Last edited by 1199; 06-18-2012 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You won't be able to pull up fuel pressure on your scanner, because the PCM doesn't monitor it. You could use a gauge connected at the fuel filter bowl to check it. You should see above 45 psi.

The ICP and IPR duty cycle that RT recommended you monitor can give you a good indication of the health of the injection system. Idling, you should see 450-500 psi on the ICP and 11-14 percent IPR. As you load the engine and increase rpms, both will increase, but IPR shouldn't go above 35-40 percent.
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99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version), AIS, coolant filter w/"hokum" bracket, regulated return, heated mirror mod, lighted cupholder, Marinco heater plug-in.

Hard or no-start? Check Here
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Now I have more problems. I have my scanner hooked to my truck and watching the data and it will not shut down. My luck !!! The icp idling is 475-500 & the duty cycle is 10.4. Hot at 2000 rpm the icp is 1170 & duty cycle is 20.6 Oil temp 217 deg. The only thing I did the last time it died was move the relays around in the fuse box to see if it would restart but it didn't until it cooled off. I will try it again tommorrow.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well it shut down today. I started it and let idle for about 30 min and then I covered the grille at 2000 rpm Within 3 mins it quit. It was at 1170 psi & 20.4 duty cycle. After it died it has 170 psi & 65 duty cycle cranking and no start. Any suggestions on which sensor? Thanks
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You could try to pull the ICP sensor wire, but to me that points to your IPR solenoid being bad. The computer is giving 65% and no pressure is being built.


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Old 06-24-2012, 10:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Any resolution on this?? I'm still in a similiar boat...trying to find the problem.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:00 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I bought a IPR solenoid from my dealer. I have run it thru 4 heat cycles and it has not shut down yet. I'm going to hook it to my trailer this friday and keep my finger crossed it don't shut down in traffic. Thanks RT & KLHansen for the help. I will get back with a update Sat. on how it did. Jeff
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Everything is good !!!! I hooked to my 24Ft enclosed trailer and made a 400 mile trip in 110 degree weather with no problems. Now I need rear AC. At 110 degree the AC was struggling. Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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1199 - Did you get a whole new IPR, or just the solenoid? Didn't think you could get just the solenoid by itself...
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