2000 F250 7.3 PSD hard start cold - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 01-03-2011, 08:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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2000 F250 7.3 PSD hard start cold

Okay, here's the issue. 2000 F250 7.3 PSD. Starting the truck when the temps go below the 30's takes like 3 minutes of "Key on, wait, crank, key off, key on, wait, crank" and usually takes about 4 cycles or so to get it to fire off. Runs perfect after it finally kicks off, but this is getting old every morning. I was thinking it was a GPR or a GP issue, however yesterday I finally got around to checking, and the glow plugs all ohm out properly, and the GPR is working fine. Truck runs fine otherwise. What am I missing? When the temp gets in the 40's or above, it starts without any problems.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Is it blowing smoke after it does fire up? The gpr can become intermittent when close to failing, sometimes working, sometimes not. When it does work, there's no guarantee its putting out enough current to get the gps hot.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Is it blowing smoke after it does fire up? The gpr can become intermittent when close to failing, sometimes working, sometimes not. When it does work, there's no guarantee its putting out enough current to get the gps hot.

Yes, it blows white smoke for a few seconds after it kicks off. I ohmed the GPR and when closed, the contact resistance is 0.03 ohms so it *appears* to be closing properly. I remember someone posting a while back about replacing the Ford GPR with one from International, however, I didn't pay attention since my truck didn't have the problem, and I can't seem to find the thread. Does anyone else recall this?
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, it blows white smoke for a few seconds after it kicks off. I ohmed the GPR and when closed, the contact resistance is 0.03 ohms so it *appears* to be closing properly. I remember someone posting a while back about replacing the Ford GPR with one from International, however, I didn't pay attention since my truck didn't have the problem, and I can't seem to find the thread. Does anyone else recall this?


Anyone?
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I was having the same problem and switched to 5W-40 synthetic (wal-mart) heavy duty and the truck starts up in less than 2 seconds of turning over, and the engine loves this oil!!!
Hope this helps
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd connect it to another vehicle using a set of good jumper cables and see if that makes a difference.
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Old 01-04-2011, 03:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes, it blows white smoke for a few seconds after it kicks off. I ohmed the GPR and when closed, the contact resistance is 0.03 ohms so it *appears* to be closing properly. I remember someone posting a while back about replacing the Ford GPR with one from International, however, I didn't pay attention since my truck didn't have the problem, and I can't seem to find the thread. Does anyone else recall this?

I replaced mine with one from International and it has worked great, I wanna say it only costed 30 bucks as well. Might wanna give them a call
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Old 01-04-2011, 03:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes, it blows white smoke for a few seconds after it kicks off. I ohmed the GPR and when closed, the contact resistance is 0.03 ohms so it *appears* to be closing properly. I remember someone posting a while back about replacing the Ford GPR with one from International, however, I didn't pay attention since my truck didn't have the problem, and I can't seem to find the thread. Does anyone else recall this?
The real test of the GPR is the voltage drop across the large terminals when energized.

Here's some options for GPR replacement (the prices are a little stale, but should be in the ballpark)

GPR
Ford F81Z-12B533-AC $76.02
NAPA GPR#109 (mounts 90 deg out of rotation from original)
Carquest #RY-175 (clone of GPR#109)
Autozone Sorensen MR-99 (also clone of GPR #109 I think)
International #1831646C1 ~$30
Western Snowplow p/n 56131k for $20 or less

Then there's the lifetime replacement option

Stancor 586-902 ~$45 plus shipping from Mouser

VERY robust relay rated for 200 Amps, about 50% larger than the stock one, so a bracket has to be fabbed, but you probably won't ever replace it.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Do you plug in overnight?

There are lots of posts on this subject: oil level, batteries, glow plugs, water in fuel, check engine light, injectors, harness, and so forth. You may need to check each of them out to isolate the issue. Last year I had the same problem and worse. Cold weather plays havoc. I was able to limp along for awhile by plugging my engine block warmer in. I ultimately bought the Automotive Engineering computer interface to focus on my problem.

My problem turned out to be corroded brass caps between the cooling system and the fuel supply at the injectors.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Manifold intake heater

Right beside the glo-plug in the center is another relay for the manifold intake heater check this.
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The real test of the GPR is the voltage drop across the large terminals when energized.
What is the voltage drop across the two if working properly?

I have been having issues with cold starts lately, tested my GP's. They ohmed out fine (1.2, cold engine). Replaced my relay because, according to tests, it wasn't working correctly. Used a western plow relay, but it doesn't seem to be working either, assuming I'm testing correctly.
When the GP's should be firing I should read 12+v from the other large terminal right? find a ground for the black and put the red end on the other large terminal right?
I am a very amateur mechanic, but can turn a wrench.... or am I even stupider than I think?

Help, thanks
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:29 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Voltage drop is a measure of votage differential between two points in the same circuit. If you were to put the black lead on one big terminal, and the red lead on the other, you would show just about 12VDC (key-off). When the glowplug relay is activated, connecting the 2 lugs together, ideally that voltage would drop to 0, but you can expect the meter to read about 1VDC. If it reads 2VDC or more, you have an issue.
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks to everyone that replied to the question. I will check the voltage drop across the relay tomorrow morning. And to the poster that mentioned the intake heater, according to ford, it only comes on if the intake air temp is below freezing, engine oil temp is below 130 degrees, and the truck is in park (or park brake on if standard) after idling for a few minutes to reduce smoke during cold idle, and it will not come on if the glow plugs are active (PCM will only activate one or the other, not both).
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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gpr

Stay away from the napa china relay. It is veeery crappy.
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have tgis same problem as well. I tested the relay 4 times and the voltage was good. I also checked the resistance on the glow plugs and the drivers side were all .8 ohms and passengers was .7 ohms. Yet I still have the same problem starting. It wont fire the first time but if I cylcle the key four times it does. This leads me to believe it is still a relay issue?
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