99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I have a 2000 ford f250 superduty which has a 7.3 powerstroke. Truck has about 330k miles, and has recently begun to give me a hard time to start, and now wont start at all. When it first started doing this i would get it to start by turning the key on and off and waiting for the "wait to start" light to turn off. I would repeat this 3, 5, and eventually even 10 times in order to get it to start. Towards the end it seemed as if i could not start it unless i repeated that cycles like 10-15 times. I thought it was glow plugs, and as they are cheap i replaced them without any issues. I did not replace harnesses, but did remove it with gaskets in order to clean connector areas. Ive put it all back together and now i cant get it to start at all. I have since uncovered valve covers and confirmed that everything (injector / GP's) is plugged in tight, and correct. Ive also checked HPOP oil level and verified it is nearly full. Ive checked all fuses and they are OK. No codes. Batteries good. Tach works fine. Im kinda stumped.
TRUCK IS A CALIFORNIA MODEL, GPCM instead of GPR.
I have been able to get it to run for short whiles by spraying diesel starting spray down tube. I have been however using very little because i am wary of the stuff. It runs fine with a small spray, but will die out as soon as i stop spraying. I thus believe now that i have a fuel problem. Does that sound right to you guys? Where is fuel pressure checked?
One more thing, Since i live in california and weather is currently near the 70-80 degrees. Its safe to rule out glow plugs? Ive read they are not needed for startup if weather is warm.
Ive since also tried:
Fuel filter bowl fuel pump test (filled quickly, i believe pumps OK)
Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
You can rule out the glow plugs. You say it runs with ether, but quits when you stop spraying. That would indicate the injectors aren't being fired by the computer or like you said - no fuel.
I'd say you need to look at three main areas.
CPS - does your tach move when cranking? A bad CPS would cause this and is cheap and easy to replace. Even if it doesn't fix the problem, having a spare is a great idea.
Fuel pressure - there are ports on the back of the fuel bow that you can use to monitor pressure. You need an adapter to hook in the gauge. Here's a link - there is a picture of the ports on this page as well:
High pressure oil - you already unplugged the ICP sensor, so you kind of ruled that out, but a bad IPR valve or severely blown injector o-rings would also keep you from building enough pressure to fire the injectors. This is where having a scanner would be really great. You could monitor the ICP sensor data while cranking to see what kind of pressure is being generated. Needs to be around 500 psi at idle.
2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
If it won't keep running without the ether once you have started it that way, then it's not your glow plugs. It sounds like the injectors are not firing. This could be due to low HPOP pressure or perhaps low voltage. You say the batts are OK, have you checked what the voltage is while cranking? I think you need 10.5V minimum to fire the injectors? Somebody correct me if this figure is not correct.
You might see my thread titled "Another hard starting thread" where I show how even a good voltage reading on cranking can be misleading.
__________________ 1991 F150 SC 4x4 7.5L/ZF5 1991 SAE Bronco 7.3L IDI NA/ZF5 1974 F350 Tow Truck 360/T18 2005 Escape 2.3L/CD4E
Yes, my tach does move tu a little over 300 rpms probably while cranking.
Checking fuel pressure will be done today if possible. Thanks for that info.
As far as checking those pressure and stuff. What kind of scantool do i need for this? Snapon red brick will do it (all i have access to atm)? Perhaps i could somehow get it to my school where they have a Solus...
And, yes. batteries are semi new and both test good. Good voltage while cranking, and i get a nice, strong, and fast crank.
Snap On MT2500 (red brick) will work for you. Fuel pressure is unlikely as you say the filter bowl fills. Minimum spec is 20 psi but I've seen 7.3s start & idle on 12 psi.
Perform a buzz test, check for codes (KOEO & history) & monitor ICP and IPR duty cycle while cranking.
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