2000PSD Dead In Driveway... - Diesel Forum

19992054 · 08-07-2005, 05:07 PM

Okay Guys, I need some help. 2000PSD,4WD,Auto,S/Box,130K. In late March, truck lost power, very rough, little throttle response. Pulled over, killed it. Restarted, everything fine, ran great. About 2 weeks later, same thing...restart, all fine. Became more frequent until restart only corrected problem for couple seconds. Towed to dealer, they replaced EBP Sensor and injector pigtail harness clips. Ran great for about 3 weeks, then slowly, same thing. On a hunch, replaced CPS. Ran fine for couple weeks, same thing again. Pulled IDM codes, replaced IDM. Ran great, about month later, same thing. Why will restart correct problem for a week or more at first, then several days, then a few hours, then only for seconds. Batteries and charge system chk'd and fine. Oil level normal. Problem has shown up with engine cold, hot, towing, empty, low speed and freeway speed. Several times, it has corrected itself without a restart. It never fails to start right up, just falls on its face after a few seconds. So far, any work done...valve covers off to check injector pigtails and v/c connections, IDM, CPS, seems to correct problem for several weeks or more. Only thing in common among all repairs is disconnect of batteries. So, I pulled ground over night thinking "something" might reset. Next morning, started right up, idled perfectly for about 15 minutes. I got in, pulled forward about 15 ft...same thing. Would barely pull itself back into the driveway again. So there it is...any ideas?

Tough_Guy · 08-07-2005, 05:24 PM

Have you looked at, or replaced the fuel filter? Fuel pump not working properly??

Cheers

kwazyca · 08-07-2005, 06:36 PM

Just a WAG here.

What is the fuel tank level when these problems occur? Any chance you run it low just before the problems start?

Tom

19992054 · 08-07-2005, 08:10 PM

Fuel filter changed in last 1000 miles, no indication of water ever. Doesn't seem to matter what level fuel tank is at when problem occurs. Problem feels to be 1/2 or more of the injectors dropping out. Occassionally, you can feel a cylinder or two kick back in, then fall out again. Problem occurs too quickly to be fuel pump related I feel. No spit or sputter, just seems to drop cylinders out. I suspect maybe the IPR or hpop. But, most have said these are normally just a complete failure. I've seen an IPR faulter, but never at cold oil temps. Keep the questions and ideas comin guys.

**klhansen** · 08-08-2005, 03:22 AM

You've checked lots of stuff, but did you check the wiring harness where it crosses the drivers side valve cover. If you have insulation chafed there, it will cause problems like you're describing. The voltage to fire the injectors shorts to ground, and they don't fire. In addition to the wire to each injector, there is a single wire to each bank that's the common voltage feed for that bank.

Does the SES light come on when you have the problem?

19992054 · 08-08-2005, 08:58 AM

Yes, SE light comes on during time engine is in fault, but goes out with restart or when problem corrects itself. I have looked at wires for any sign of damage, chafing, rubs, etc. several times with nothing found. Only codes thrown during last SE light period was a PCM code that sets when I reprogram with my tuner, and an IDM code. My code reader will not read the internal IDM codes, but the IDM was new about a month ago. I may reinstall the old IDM just for ***** and giggles to see if the problem goes away again for several weeks as it usually does. I even contacted my tuner manufacturer to ask if it was possible this was a tuner issue. They said no way, but the stock tuning is back in anyway. I have considered towing the truck to a local dealer and having the computer flashed and reprogrammed to see if this corrects the problem. That could indicate my tuner was indeed at fault.

Crazy_Canuck · 08-08-2005, 12:47 PM

take a big stick of dynomite.....LOL take a stick about 4 foot long. broom handle kind of stic and poke and prod where no fingers should go. i would think a bad connection or chaffed insulation causing bad charma.....how is your windshield sealing? is there any indication water could be running down a window seal and into computers or wiring inside the cab? window sealing is a problem with some of our sd's... hope you find the problem. check wiring down to feul pump as well or inlet screen to pump.. could be starving for fuel...
thats my lousy 2 cents

19992054 · 08-08-2005, 04:58 PM

Way ahead of ya...wore a broom stick down to a nub pushing and prying and tapping while truck sat barely running. Made no difference. Went to get other handle with 8# sledge head on it, but wife got to it first thank goodness. Gave me a cold beer instead...she's a good woman.
No leak problem can be found. Truck has faultered when no rain or water present in long time. No signs of water anywhere on firewall, or when IDM was changed.
Keep the ideas comn guys... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

BOBS00FORD73L · 08-08-2005, 07:34 PM

My 2000 SD, auto 4x4, 7.3L, seems to be having the same issues. It will usually reset same as yours with a restart. Sometimes at low RPM the truck will stall, which is fun when your in traffic. I just got the truck about 2 months ago and have put on around 3k miles and it has 76k miles on it. The only thing I've changed so far is the fuel filter and it was running fine for a couple of days and today on the way to work it stalled at a stop sign. I also have a problem with the neutral safety switch, someone told me that that could cause stalling. On another forum some guys were having trouble with the engine bucking/surging and after changing many parts it seemed to come down to changing oils. I find this hard to believe but it seemed to help every one out and they found it worked for big diesels having the same issue. Something to do with the anti foaming addatives. A lot of guys talked about using Rotella T 15-40W and after swithcing to another brand the engine ran better. I don't know if this is causing the issues we seem to have but I'm going to try running motorcraft which recommended on those forums. When switching to another oil they claimed to have the problem cleared up in under 100miles.

Let me know if you figure out the problem because I'd like to get mine straightened out and I don't have the money or time to start trouble shooting from scratch.

Mach1 · 08-08-2005, 08:42 PM

Bob, did you replace the injector harness or just push it back together..I am getting at, once they seperate, and start to arc, it burns the connector facing, then the connection develops more resistance and then you start getting missfires. the valve cover gasket and wiring harness has to be replaced once this occurs..

I am a fast learner and got burned by this one time, now its automatically gets both wiring harness and gasket...

Good luck...

19992054 · 08-09-2005, 12:24 AM

The dealership removed v/covers to replace "pigtail clips". I redid their work and replaced pigtails and cover gaskets. I have never found any sign of burning, melting, arcing...anything at any of the connectors. But, replaced them anyway in an effort to repair my truck. My truck never stalls/dies, just looses power to the point it will hardly pull itself. Does a restart correct your truck BOB00FORD73L?
I used Rotella from the beginning and only changed when I started having problems. Since our PS's are direct inject using h/pressure oil to fire injectors, any foaming through HPOP system will affect performance. I noticed a smoother idle after swithing to Brand 400, but haven't noticed the increase mpg's some claimed.
I have found a local International/Navstar tech that will diagnose and let me repair myself. I hope this works. I never realized how much I really needed my 'Stroke till she wasn't there for me...*****.

RenoF250 · 08-09-2005, 12:39 AM

It sounds like you have covered everything electrical. What about a sticking check valve? That could theoretically cut off fuel to one bank and give you these problems. Does it smoke when running crappy? What about a ICP sensor or the HPOP?

19992054 · 08-09-2005, 12:56 AM

When problem occurs, I can see a small amount of smoke, but not much. Nothing heavy of any color ever. I thought about installing a h/pressure oil gauge into injector rail to see if I saw a pressure drop when problem occurs. But, I wasn't sure if a drop would be caused by the HPOP, or maybe the IPR. I've seen an IPR faulter with a hot engine, but not a cold one. But, I hate to just keep throwing parts at this thing. And, a h/p gauge is about a hundred bucks too.
What check valve could be sticking? I haven't checked the ICP either.

BOBS00FORD73L · 08-09-2005, 02:00 AM

Yes, restarting fixes the problem for a little while like yours. When mine acts up it just hitches for a spilt seconds every couple hundred feet or so but I still seem to have full power. Usually it will hitch for a little bit and then the check engine light will come on, then I'll restart and it'll go away. Today it actually felt a little sluggish on the take off but like I said before I've been having problems with the shifting linkage and I think I was in 2nd gear on my auto and after wiggling it a little it seemed to come out of it. Like I said if you find a solution let me know I've been out of college for a year and I'm in debt up to my eye balls and I just want this problem to go away as cheaply as possible. I'm a die hard ford guy been running beater fords dreaming about a SD and now that I have one I almost wishing I stayed with beaters. While at work tonight I drained the fuel bowl and got water. Would this cause my stalling even though its been separated.

kwazyca · 08-09-2005, 03:11 AM

I had something somewhat similar happen to a piece of construction equipment. Very intermittent and frustrating. After it finally went to Cat. They called and said we had an old rag in the fuel tank, that would slosh around and every once in awhile cover the fuel pickup and slowly starve the engine out. After it died and the suction was released on the rag.......it would go anywhere from an hour to a week before it would happen again.[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] Won't cost you anything to drop the tank and check the fuel pickup.

I still think your problem is an electrical gremlin though. Try asking about your problem here. Helpful place with Ford diesel techs.

FWIW,

Tom