99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
There are two kinds of exhaust brakes - the cheaper "electronic" kind, and the over-$1,000 mechanical kind.
The electronic kind does a decent job for trailers that weigh up to around 8,000 pounds, and it will help at least some with heavier trailers. There are two versions of the electronic exhaust brake.
The least expensive is the DP-Tuner Decel tune. It's used only for coming down the mountain, so it won't work with a programmer or tuner - you have to have a "chip" with other tunes on the chip. The switch to the Decel tune at the top of the pass, then back to your towing tune at the bottom of the pass. The Decel tune costs only $40 if you already have the chip. F5 1-16 Position Switch on the fly Chip - Chips - Tuning - 1994.5 - 2003 Powerstroke 7.3L Truck - Ford Powerstroke
The better (and more expensive) exhaust brakes have their own butterfly valve they use to stop up the exhaust pipe and retard the engine. They're made by PacBrake, U.S.Gear, Banks, BD and maybe others. They all cost over $1000 MSRP. Here's the BD version: BD Power - Product: Exhaust Brakes
I had an electronic exhaust brake similar to the BD Brakeloc - cost around $400 for automagic tranny, or $200 for stick shift. (The automatic has more programming to lock up the torque converter so the engine stays locked to the rear axle.) The seller has sold out to a bigger outfit, so I won't link to that one, but it worked great.
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and are they hard to put in?
The "real" exhaust brakes are not very hard. You have to install the butterfly valve in the exhaust system, and hook up some wires and a switch on the dash. Here is a link to the BD Exhaust Brake for a 7.3L. Decide for yourself. http://www.dieselperformance.com/pro..._Air_Brake.pdf
The BrakeLoc is even easier, because it uses the EBPV that's already installed in your engine. And the tune is easiest of all - provided you already have a multi-position chip installed. If you don't already have a chip, then you'll want one so make that your next mod: Chips - Tuning - 1994.5 - 2003 Powerstroke 7.3L Truck - Ford Powerstroke
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Originally Posted by rtalich
I have that tune too but doesn't seem to do anything. Ended up not even using it at all
Then you probably didn't understand how it works. The DP-Tuner Decel tune does a good job of retarding the rig, but only when a heavy trailer is pushing you down the mountain at a faster clip than you want to go. Under those conditions, downshift to maintain the engine RPM between 2,500 and 3,000 and you will definitely get some retarding - assuming your exhaust back pressure valve (EBPV) is installed and working properly. If your trailer weighs less than about 8,000 or maybe up to 9,000 pounds, you probably won't even need to use the brakes at all to maintain a safe speed around 65 MPH.
At any engine RPM less than about 2,000, it won't do much. It begins working at around 2,000 RPM, and doesn't really go to work until 2,500 or so RPM.
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
Last edited by SmokeyWren; 01-03-2013 at 12:00 PM.
There are two kinds of exhaust brakes - the cheaper "electronic" kind, and the over-$1,000 mechanical kind.
The electronic kind does a decent job for trailers that weigh up to around 8,000 pounds, and it will help at least some with heavier trailers. There are two versions of the electronic exhaust brake.
The least expensive is the DP-Tuner Decel tune. It's used only for coming down the mountain, so it won't work with a programmer or tuner - you have to have a "chip" with other tunes on the chip. The switch to the Decel tune at the top of the pass, then back to your towing tune at the bottom of the pass. The Decel tune costs only $40 if you already have the chip. F5 1-16 Position Switch on the fly Chip - Chips - Tuning - 1994.5 - 2003 Powerstroke 7.3L Truck - Ford Powerstroke
The better (and more expensive) exhaust brakes have their own butterfly valve they use to stop up the exhaust pipe and retard the engine. They're made by PacBrake, U.S.Gear, Banks, BD and maybe others. They all cost over $1000 MSRP. Here's the BD version: BD Power - Product: Exhaust Brakes
I had an electronic exhaust brake similar to the BD Brakeloc - cost around $400 for automagic tranny, or $200 for stick shift. (The automatic has more programming to lock up the torque converter so the engine stays locked to the rear axle.) The seller has sold out to a bigger outfit, so I won't link to that one, but it worked great.
The "real" exhaust brakes are not very hard. You have to install the butterfly valve in the exhaust system, and hook up some wires and a switch on the dash. Here is a link to the BD Exhaust Brake for a 7.3L. Decide for yourself. http://www.dieselperformance.com/pro..._Air_Brake.pdf
The BrakeLoc is even easier, because it uses the EBPV that's already installed in your engine. And the tune is easiest of all - provided you already have a multi-position chip installed. If you don't already have a chip, then you'll want one so make that your next mod: Chips - Tuning - 1994.5 - 2003 Powerstroke 7.3L Truck - Ford Powerstroke
Then you probably didn't understand how it works. The DP-Tuner Decel tune does a good job of retarding the rig, but only when a heavy trailer is pushing you down the mountain at a faster clip than you want to go. Under those conditions, downshift to maintain the engine RPM between 2,500 and 3,000 and you will definitely get some retarding - assuming your exhaust back pressure valve (EBPV) is installed and working properly. If your trailer weighs less than about 8,000 or maybe up to 9,000 pounds, you probably won't even need to use the brakes at all to maintain a safe speed around 65 MPH.
At any engine RPM less than about 2,000, it won't do much. It begins working at around 2,000 RPM, and doesn't really go to work until 2,500 or so RPM.
SmokeyWren Thanks for your reply, my 5th wheel is 13,850 GVWR, I was leaning towards the Banks. I was wondering if I could put it on when asking how hard, well hoping.. Also that Trans auto lock and some air bags
Thanks for your suggestions Smokeywrench
SmokeyWren Thanks for your reply, my 5th wheel is 13,850 GVWR, ...
Then you probably want a "real" exhaust brake, such as the Banks.
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I was leaning towards the Banks.
Banks makes excellent products, although some are overpriced compared to the competition. Lots of enthusiasts on this website poo-poo Banks because they sell only bullet-proof go-fast tunes that will not harm your engine. If you want a tune that can win the Saturday Nite sled pull, then you probably don't want a Banks tune - it doesn't produce enough power. But the Banks tunes will also not grenade your engine, so they're great for the average bear that just wants more power to tow that heavy trailer up Wolf Creek Pass, along with the Banks exhaust brake to get you safely down the other side.
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I was wondering if I could put it on when asking how hard, well hoping..
I hate automotive wiring, so I pay someone else to install anything that requires wiring. But if you're comfortable with splicing wires and doing the mechanical tasks of installing the butterfly in the exhaust system, then it's probably a relatively easy mod to DIY.
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Also that Trans auto lock ...
With an automagic tranny, you definitely want to have a way to lock the torque converter when coming down the mountain. I suspect Banks includes that as part of the Banks Brake, but maybe it's an option if you have an automatic?. Again, that puppy is a lot of wiring that has to be done right, so I'd pay a tech to take care of that part. I built my retirement home and did all the wiring myself, but automotive wiring is a different animal that I hate to mess with.
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...and some air bags
I hope you have enough truck to tow that 13+K trailer with ~2,600 pounds of pin weight without being overloaded over the GVWR of the tow vehicle. Air bags are normally not required if you're not overloaded. But they won't hurt anything, and help to bring the headlights back down so they don't irritate oncoming traffic.
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.
Best period is a BD brake, I've used these and sold-installed many for customers. If I can help let me know.
Cary
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I haven't even though of power chips IM not in2 racing, just pulling my home. Also would like to stop well, get some air bags and then maybe a chip, 13.7 miles per gallon lol.
Guess I need to locate some one close to Longview TX to do it..
I haven't even though of power chips IM not in2 racing, just pulling my home. Also would like to stop well, .....
That's me, too. But guarantee, after you tow that heavy trailer with a DP-Tuner 60-tow or 40-tow tune, you'll never want to hook up to the trailer again without that tune. With the stock tune, the automagic tranny will downshift out of OD for every little bump in the road. With the towing tune, it has to be a decent grade before the tranny will downshift.
Way back when, I had a one-tune Western Diesel chip good for around 60 HP, and my 5er grossed 8,000 pounds. On the road, my PCM went south, and the dealer installed a different PCM code, so my chip would no longer work. We made a long towing trip to Seattle and back without a chip, and that was a miserable trip. As soon as we got home, I ordered an Edge programmer with 3 tunes. Later I had Bill Cohron replace the generic Edge tunes with DP-Tuner tunes 40-tow, 60-tow and 80-economy, then continued with the DP-Tuner tunes until I sold the truck several years later.
That was before DP-Tuner had the Decel tune working, so I had another brand of electronic exhaust brake that worked fine.
Today, in your shoes, I would order the DP-Tuner multi-position chip with 40-tow, 60-tow, Decel, plus a good stock tune, along with a switch to instantly change tunes on the go. Then the decal tune could be selected at the top of the pass, and your towing tune when you got off the mountain. The Decel tune is only $40 extra, so if you later decide you need a more-powerful exhaust brake you wouldn't have wasted much money. But if it's enough exhaust brake for you, you'll have saved over $1,000.
Then after your first 1,000 mile trip with the 5er, come back and tell me you don't need the towing chip.
I would go with Banks. It will give you more horsepower, lower your egts. It also will lock up torque convertor. It also cycles everytime the truck is turned on when cold.
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Dp-Tuner 60& 80econ 60& 80 tow
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jobeperformance intake
dieselsite 203 t stat, coolant filter, evans coolant
38r with bank-bighead installed, diesel site non ebv flange international up-pipes coated, diesel site engine boot-kit, non-ebv pedestal
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new fuel bowl
CMF+ intake
isspro ev2 pyrometer(pre turbo), fuel pressure, coolant temp, HPOP gauge Matt
I would go with Banks. It will give you more horsepower, lower your egts. It also will lock up torque convertor. It also cycles everytime the truck is turned on when cold.
Exhaust gas temperature. With the sender installed pre-turbo (in the exhaust manifold or up pipe), normal is around 500° to 900°. 900° to 1,100° means you are working the engine hard. 1,200° is about the max you can get with a stock tune, and to get there you must be dragging a heavy trailer at a good speed up a steep grade. Or racing of some sort. The red line is 1,250° pre-turbo EGT. Don't allow it to go over 1.250° for more than a few seconds, because the aluminum pistons begin to melt out of shape at over 1,250°).
With a "chip" or other hot-rod or towing "tune", the EGT redline is still 1,250°, but you can get there really fast, even when not towing. And with pedal to the metal, you get a lot more EGT than 1,250° before you can blink. So you must have a pyrometer (EGT gauge) and "drive by the gauges" when you have a chip or programmer or other tune that increases power and torque. Else say bye-bye to you $10,000 engine.
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The red line is 1,250° pre-turbo EGT. Don't allow it to go over 1.250° for more than a few seconds, because the aluminum pistons begin to melt out of shape at over 1,250°).
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