99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I have a 1999 7.3 with 215,000 miles on it. it developed a loud knock and mechanic says something in the lower end most likey rod knock. Has anyone else had this problem with these kind of miles? i bought this truck becasue i thought they were suppose to last 450,000 miles without a major hiccup like this....
I have a 1999 7.3 with 215,000 miles on it. it developed a loud knock and mechanic says something in the lower end most likey rod knock. Has anyone else had this problem with these kind of miles? i bought this truck becasue i thought they were suppose to last 450,000 miles without a major hiccup like this....
Its possible. There are lemons, and again, it depends on maintanence. Have you checked for codes or pulled the valve covers?
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2001 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/ Aeroforce Interceptor/ BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/ 4" turbo back straight exhaust / CCV Mod /DIY 6637/ TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40 Tow WITH Whsiper tune, 80 Daily Driver, 100 Race, 140 Extreme, 140 smoke show)//Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Hood/HPx/FRx/GPR switch-Indicator
First vehicle (still driving): 96 F250 XLT 2x4- All factory (injectors & turbo) except straight exhaust. 570k miles
The mechanic pulled the trans and valve covers and told me it was something in the lower end... whats the most common path taken with junk 7.3's? Just buy another used motor, crate motor, or just rebuild it? I pretty much want to get it back on the road the cheapest way possible. Thanks
You really need to isolate the problem first. That may mean pulling the engine, flipping it and pulling the pan. Then plastigage all the rods and crank bearings. If the journal isn't scored, you might get away with putting in another set of standard bearing inserts. I've done that so many times I can't remember.
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2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU’VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
You really need to isolate the problem first. That may mean pulling the engine, flipping it and pulling the pan. Then plastigage all the rods and crank bearings. If the journal isn't scored, you might get away with putting in another set of standard bearing inserts. I've done that so many times I can't remember.
Thanks for the advice but what does plastigage mean?
Before you go ripping stuff apart, cut your oil filter open and see if there's any metal in it. If you have a rod bearing knocking you are going to have metal in the filter. Couple of tiny pieces of metal here and there can be considered normal. Post a pic if you doubt your judgement.
Be careful you don't use a grinding wheel or anything like that to cut the filter open, you don't want to put metal in there to make you think there's something wrong.
It could be a bad injector instead of a rod. Does it smoke badly when it runs?
Cutting the oil filter open is a good idea. You could try using a can opener around the rim. Or take a cold chisel and hammer and cut it around the side right next to the top bit by bit.
Well im picking the truck up in two days so I will let you guys know what i come up with. Mechanic says all of the injectors are good. Again thanks for all the help really appreciate it
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