6.0 trans & intercooler installed, now running too darn hot!!!

[Mark Kovalsky]

With the rear line disconnected at the transmission, and two containers handy, have a helper start the engine. Once the flow is steady move the line from the first container to the second for exactly 15 seconds then move the line back to the first container and shut the engine off. If fluid sprayed out of the open trans fitting it fails the test. If there is less than one quart (measured, not estimated) in the second container, it fails.

[Skooter_Built]

Fingers crossed, I rebuilt the bypass valve last night and drove my truck around for 45 minutes and the trans temp never went over 150 degrees and stayed constant!

Its nice to drive my truck again however a new issue has crept up. I was driving and all of a sudden no throttle and the CEL comes on. The engine stays running, idling perfectly but no response from the pedal. I waited a few seconds and the CEL came off but still nothing. Waited a few seconds more and now throttle response. This happened a hand full of times on my way into work.

I replaced the cam position sensor a year or 2 ago, could it be going bad again? What about the injector wiring harness? Any other thoughts?

[RT]

When you say "no throttle response" do you mean NO - as in zero - throttle response, or as in very little - no real power - but it still tries?

The first response would point to the accelerator pedal. The truck is fly by wire, so if the potentiometer in the pedal is crapping out, you would get "no throttle response"

If you just have no power, it could be in the high pressure oil circuit, fuel pressure, or even the CPS.

Getting the codes would go a long way to narrowing this down.

[Skooter_Built]

Originally Posted by RT

When you say "no throttle response" do you mean NO - as in zero - throttle response, or as in very little - no real power - but it still tries?

The first response would point to the accelerator pedal. The truck is fly by wire, so if the potentiometer in the pedal is crapping out, you would get "no throttle response"

If you just have no power, it could be in the high pressure oil circuit, fuel pressure, or even the CPS.

Getting the codes would go a long way to narrowing this down.

After I posted this I did a quick search and it basically its looking like the pedal assy is going bad. I loves me the interwebs!

[Mark Kovalsky]

What code was stored when the Check Engine Light came on?

[Skooter_Built]

So I'm back again

I put my front bumper back on this weekend and drove my truck around and had no issues. Today I drove my truck to work, no issues but noticed the trans temp was high, 187 degrees when i got off the highway, a little odd cause I wasnt driving the truck hard and it was only 70ish degrees' outside

I just drove to another jobsite roughly 30 minutes away via highway (driving 70mph, air temp was 81 degrees) and only hit 175 degrees UNTIL I got onto an off ramp which I costed up. The trans temp jumped all the way upto 195 degrees!!! in less then 2 minutes. What the FORK is going on???

When I parked my truck I crawled under it cause I noticed it was leaking. Its leaking around the far back of the pan and the trans to transfer case mount looks really wet, the lines around the bypass line are dry. Im so f'ing confused right now.

[brettdacosta]

Originally Posted by RT

item #10 in the diagram -

Attachment 14708

Could I get a list of the items used in the diagram? I'm about to have to start tracking down a transmission fluid leak, and it would be helpful to know where any problem issues are. It appears to be forward in the truck (but not quite forward enough to be at the cooler). I'm thinking it's in one of the lines. Thanks in advance.

P.S. - Sorry for the off topic request.

[RT]

Sorry I'm not quite following your request. Did you want part numbers or names or what exactly?

[SmokeyWren]

Originally Posted by brettdacosta

I'm about to have to start tracking down a transmission fluid leak, and it would be helpful to know where any problem issues are. It appears to be forward in the truck (but not quite forward enough to be at the cooler).

The most likely place for a leak of ATF if it's not coming from the tranny or the coolers is the connections where the ATF lines attach to the tranny and coolers, plus where the metal lines transition to rubber lines over the front axle. Or, if your tranny cooling system includes a Magnefine in-line filter in the return line over the front axle, if it wasn't installed properly it could leak ATF where the rubber line was cut to install the filter.

If you have, or can borrow, a lift, then it's easy to trace the cooler lines from the tranny, over the front axle, to the radiator. Otherwise, you have to do it the shade-tree mechanic method of crawling under the truck and looking up at the cooler lines.

Or if someone installed a tranny temp sender in one of the cooler lines, look at that installation carefully. The cooler lines are a terrible place to install a sender for a tranny temp gauge, but there are some real winners out there in the wild.

[brettdacosta]

Thanks for the reply, guys. And sorry for the delay - I didn't have it set to send emails when I got a response, and I didn't check back. I believe it's leaking just out of the in-line filter they added at Ford when they rebuilt my transmission. It's not leaking as much as it used to, but I'm gonna check and make sure it's tight.

What I was looking for with the diagram was the names for the items the bubbles are calling out, and I'd still be interested in that if it wasn't too much trouble. Thanks again for your reply. I'll let you know that I find out.

[brettdacosta]

Oh - one more thing. I have a transmission gauge (not sure where it's coming from), but what type of a sensor is used for the reading, because my gauge fluctuates at the beginning and then sorta settles in about 280 (varies sometimes), but this could be directly after I start it in the morning, so I know something is not accurate. Wondering if it's more likely to be the sensor or the gauge. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot the gauge issue? Thanks, guys.

[RT]

If it settles in about 280°, you'd better hope its wrong. What kind of gauge is it? Look for small print on the face of the gauge - it might say Autometer or ISSPRO. The diagnostics are slightly different.

[brettdacosta]

Yeah - it's wrong for sure, but I'm just needing a place to start. They are Glowshift gauges that were on the truck when I got them. They worked for a while, and then they just stopped working.

[RT]

I'm not familiar with them, but I bet they have the transducer incorporated into the gauge. I would suggest checking for loose connections from the sender to the back of the gauge. If that is all tight, call glowshift. For the price, it would probably be cheaper to get a new one than try to fix yours. You might consider upgrading to the ISSPRO or Autometer line for something more durable.

[brettdacosta]

Hey guys - ok - it's leaking from the filter. I need to tighten things up as the first test (before assuming the housing my be cracked or weeping). It appears to be leaking from around the hose clamp on the outlet side. I'm curious how you guys would handle this and more specifically how to handle the fluid I'll probably end up losing loosening the worm clamp, removing the hose, cutting a little piece of the rubber off to get to a tighter section of unused hose and re-installing over the barb and re-tightening? I mean am I gonna have fluid running out of that the whole time, and if so, how much will I lose and what should I do about it? Thanks guys - I know it seems like a simple request, but I'm tired of losing fluid, and I want to save as much as I can.

Also - I have an pre-pump inline fuel filter (following the hutch / harpoon mod) that I'm looking to replace (seriously clogged up). I'm wondering how much fuel I'm gonna lose in that line and the best way to handle the same type of issue with this procedure as well. Thanks in advance, guys.