Boy, there sure were a ton of discussions on here about 15 years ago to do with 7.3L cackle. I don't recall if everyone finally agreed on the most predominate root cause of it or not. If I recall, there was a ton of fuel system mods being experimented with at the time.
Wow... that article takes me back, everyone in the early 2K's was freaking about their 7.3L cackle issue.... then the first 6.0L came along in Nov of 2002 and peoples shiny new trucks were sitting on dealers lots by Jan waiting on replacement injectors :surprise:... cackle seemed so insignificant after that.
Not sure what to suggest that hasn't been suggested before on the fuel gauge install. I don't have one...yet. The main thing is to make sure you don't use a full mechanical gauge that runs diesel up into the gauge, you don't what that inside your cab. But I imagine you already new that, your probably looking more for the specifics of how to connect one the best way to a 7.3L.
I remember a long time ago there was ton and tons of discussion and even some heated arguments over cackle and knock. There was even a guy with the initials of KL that was having people sign a non disclosure agreement to get in on his so called fix. I ended up going with the Hutch mod with the Housted T and went with the Billet FPR and black spring. My cackle went away mostly but the knock never has. I replaced the Long Lead #8 injector with a an AD, helped a little. I've done the FRX, HPX and CVD fittings change out, still knocks. Fuel pressure stays at 68 to 70 psi always. I am done I am not going to do anymore chasing the elusive knock fix, if there is such a thing. I think the only way to get rid of the knock is change the firing order, which we all know cannot be done. The one thing that still gets to me though is why, every once in a while the motor will smooth right out and just purr no knock, no rattle just pure beautiful diesel idling away. It's a beautiful thing.
Bill
I remember a long time ago there was ton and tons of discussion and even some heated arguments over cackle and knock. There was even a guy with the initials of KL that was having people sign a non disclosure agreement to get in on his so called fix.
Bill
I think that kit was a set of rebuilt injectors or something like that. It was very interesting to follow back then. I remember with great respect Texas Towncar also.
Bill
He actually did scientific tests and discovered the cause of cackle and came up with the regulated return system to eliminate the deadhead fuel rails. About the only thing that improved cackle.
Definitely! After I get two other projects (boat starter and F-150 rear axle) taken care of and get my truck back i will probably jump in to it. Plus I'll be in there anyway making sure they put her back together proper.
Yes, I do recall that. He was definitely "the man" on 7.3 cackle. That whole issue really blew up for a while there, people talked like the end of civilization was coming over it. Funny how issues get fixated on and blown up. It sure puts into perspective what's happened in the diesel engine market since '03. There isn't a single owner out there with an emission engine that wouldn't be happy if cackle was the worst thing they had to worry about.
Do you live in a part of Colorado that requires annual emissions testing and inspection for individually owned diesel powered vehicles under 14,001 GVWR and older than 2003? If so, then know that Riffraff engraves their logo over all of their products, and an emissions tester is likely to ask "What's all this riff raff doing under the hood?"
Edited: I miss read the previous post that we were talking about the oil side
for the HPX line i suggest the one from dale isley at tymar performance. It is a braided flex line that is easier to install, shorter smoother oil path, larger diameter. The shorter line and larger bore eases oil flow and cuts down the possibility of over cooking the oil that could in affect end up see-sawing between the two heads.
The FPx is different than the HP oil crossover mod, which I think is what Relentless007 is referring to.
FPx bleeds a little fuel from the dead-end of the fuel rails thru a small orifice back to the return line in parallel with the regulator on the side of the fuel bowl.
The regulated return system routes all returned fuel thru a separate regulator and back to the tank, in parallel with a little bit of fuel bled thru an orifice (replacing the original regulator) from the filter bowl just to bleed air from it.
Two different attempts to solve the same problem. I don't have any experience with the FPx other than helping a buddy install one, so can't offer any comparison as far as the results.
It was recommended that since I do not yet have a fuel pressure gauge that I should not use the Black Spring 67-70 psi since it could result in too high of pressure and no way to know it without a gauge.
So I used the gold spring with 62-65 psi.
Only have about 20 miles on the rebuilt fuel bowl and the injectors are quieter and my acceleration is better.
But its not 100% better.
Next project will be to drop the tank and clean the filters. I don't have a shop at the moment so I will have to save the Hutch/Harpoon mods until warmer weather...but I do want to clean those two small filter screens in the tank.
BTW, you can buy a complete new Fuel Bowl (OEM Ford) from DieselOrings but it will not have the top quality material o-rings that are available in the reseal kit.
I have not yet added the CNC Fab 4-line FRx that Yan referenced.
I'm still waiting on the cnc 4 line kit. Its stock at custom for the past week. And trans still out of the truck so it will take a bit before i get the truck back on the road
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