99 7.3 f250 auto. has a miss then clears up - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 10-09-2010, 02:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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99 7.3 f250 auto. has a miss then clears up

ok my problem i am in afghanistan and i bought this truck while over here and had my dad pic it up for me the day he drove it home it ran fine said never had a problem out of it great truck. he let it set a week then started it to drive around. it had a miss from time of start till he got to town and the motor was warm then no miss ran fine. that night he pluged the truck up next morning started fine missed for bout a min that was it. drove down the road and ran fine but when he got on it he said it cut of for a sec then cleared rite back up done this prolly 3or4 times in a 5 mile stretch.... i have a hypertech tuner put truck back to stock and ran diagnostics test got codes P1249 waste gate selonode, PO500 speed sensor malfunction, P0475 exhaust pressure control malfunction,P0720 output speed sensor circuit malfunction. I do work on my on truck but i dont know much bout a diesel the only one that sounds reasonable is waste gate im not sure that is it tho. the truck has 300,000 miles the man i bought it from said he just put two injectors in and a new trany i know alot of miles but it was cheap. i am thinking more injectors or vc wireing harness. any imput would be great.

I am going on a hunting trip when i git home in November pulling a 24ft camper. Tryn to git the truck fixed be for i go so if anyone has an ideal of what else it could be plz help

thank you very much

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Old 10-09-2010, 07:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I think I would first look at the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor and tube. Guzzle's Maintenance Page has a good write up on what to do. If the tube is in good condition and the sensor is fine, you can look at the Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator Solenoid, it is at the base of the turbo pedestal. The EBP Sensor may give you a miss, but the solenoid should not.

The P1249 WG solenoid is a pretty common code that will have nothing to do with a miss. Have you disconnected the WG line to the WG as a boost enhancement?

I would also look into the speed sensor codes. Your VSS may be bad and that seems to cause lots of off the wall problems. It will not make the engine miss, but it may feel like a miss if you were driving.
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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its may not be related to your issue, but has the dealer recall been done on the cps and speed control sensor, had mine done about 2 wks ago but luckly had never had any issues till now,
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Last edited by aktive1; 10-09-2010 at 07:40 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks and i will look into it and let my dad know kinda hard to work on it from here but my dad is doing what he can.

I talk to my dad this morning on the phone he drove the truck yesterday and it missed and ever quit said when you first start it you can here the miss very well untill it warms up..

He did git to more codes after driving it p1000 monitor testing incomplete, and p0004 fuel volume regulator controle circuit high.

and the plug for the waste gate is pluged up. maybe this will tell you more thanks for the help and i will start lookn into the other things you said
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i am not for sure if the recall has been done on this truck i just bought it a month ago and i am just going by what my dad is telling me i am in afghanistan and wont be home till november. is the anyway to look at the cps and tell if it has been changed
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The CPS recall and the Speed Sensor recall will have little to no effect on what you are describing. The speed sensor recall installs a fused harness off of the master cylinder brake applied switch. This was done to reduce the risk of a fire on that circuit, since the gasser trucks were hot all the time. The CPS recall was started several years ago. They have a unique symptom as they usually fail entirely at once with little to no notice. The original ones were black and the new recalled ones are gray. There is a dark blue one now too.

The grey CPS is known to cause a slight miss at idle, but should not be felt anytime above idle.

The P1000 code is probably nothing

I have not seen P0004. Are you sure it was that code? If your Hypertech is throwing that code it is wrong from what I can tell. I know the tuners that can pull codes often throw bogus codes, but have him check it again after clearing them and driving it for a bit.

Has the battery been dead? That would explain the P1000.

Also how old is the oil. These trucks need clean oil to run properly. If it has not been changed, I would recommend getting it changed and then running it for 25-50 miles. See if it is acting up from sitting or if it is something else.

If your WG actuator hose is plugged you will have codes for it.
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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yes it is the hypertech that we or gitting the codes from i am preaty sure that it hasnt been dead.

I just got off the phone with my dad rite befor i read this and that is on thing i told him to do is change the oil and fuel fillter just to git that out of the way to see if that could be it. the guy told us that he changed it rite befor we bought it but you never can tell so we are gitting that done
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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First, thank you for your service.

Now on to the truck stuff. Worn injectors can not fire properly when cold, but begin to work correctly when warm. Eventually this can lead to a no start as the weather cools. Plugging the truck in will minimize the missing, or can allow it to start, but still miss.

Unfortunately worn or sticking injector internals will not throw an engine code that points to the problem. A scanner capable of reading live data might catch the problem, but you might have to fool the PCM into thinking the engine is warmed up to get the info you need.

Any way to find out where the 2 "new" injectors came from? If he got them at some cheap rebuilder like Pensacola diesel, it could be the "new" injectors that are the problem. If your dad is willing and able to pull the valve covers, have him watch the oil discharge from each injector when cold. If you've got one or more injectors not spitting oil, that means they are not firing. If they start spitting oil when the engine warms up, that would indicate worn injectors.

A buzz test will also offer clues to worn injector internals, but you'll need a scanner like AE or others that can perform those tests or monitor live data.
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Old 10-10-2010, 03:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks chris and if my dad ever gits time he will prolly do it for me. he is 65 and i think he works more than anyone person i have ever seen he is always on the go but he tryn to help me on my truck when he can

so no oil means its not firing and oil after it gits warm is a warn inject and i should replace them if they are doing either of this rite?

and where would be a good place to buy injectors if i have to? dont wana spend a bunch of money but i do want a injector that is not going to fail me

one other thing i had someone tell me befor if one injector goes then the rest are not far behind if we do figur out it is injectors do you thing i should change all 8 so i wont be doing this again for awhile?

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Old 10-10-2010, 07:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If you determine you need injectors you can go to a few places for them. Beans Diesel Performance is a reputable name that will have quality parts. You can get stock manufactured injectors from them for $120 each.

They also sell Stage 1 injectors for $1095 a set for remans. or $1875 for new injectors.

FullForce Diesel also has a set or re manufactured injectors for $950

With 300k on the truck I would imagine the injectors are probably tuckered out. Replacing them as a set is not a bad idea. Also look into replacing the injector cups while you are doing it. Parts are about $100 and they are know to crack, which would make you pull your injectors again.
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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well i think im going to do all 8 injectors and the vc and wiring under the vc. i hate to spend the money but for it to have this many miles i think i will be money ahead if i go ahead and do it and that will take care of the thot of my injectors being bad. o plus new glow plugs.

i havent heard of the injector cup but sounds like i will go ahead and buy that to so everything under the vc will be good to go i hope.

is there anything else i should do while i have the vc off

thanks guys for all the help anymore advice would be great i have a 95 camaro and i know it from top to bottom from workn on it so im tryn to do the same with my truck i not to big on haven someone work on my stuff so im tryn to figur out as much as i can bout it. i had a 97 7.3 befor best truck ever had just had a wreck in it befor i got to know much about it but thanks again for the help. just maken my list of things to do when i git home.
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Old 10-10-2010, 10:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The injector cup is installed into the head as a "press fit". The injectors seat into this cup and it separates the coolant from the fuel. This allows the coolant to flow around the injector and cool it quicker. They are made pretty soft, so they expand and contract as the engine heats up and cools down. This causes the material to work harden and eventually crack. They can be removed from the heads with a special tool. This can all be done with the engine in the truck. Pretty straight forward project, just allow yourself a couple of days to do it. Most can do it in a day, but if you are doing everything under the VC's, you might as well take your time and not rush it.



Stick with OEM Glow Plugs as there are others out there, but not as good. The Motorcraft ones are not really much more expensive than anything else. The ZD-11's are fairly cheap (Under $10) at this store K-Mans Parts

Replacing the UVCH is also a good insurance, as they can also go bad on you. The VC Gasket does not need to be replaced as they are reusable, but if you have some extra cash go ahead and replace them if you choose.
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Old 10-10-2010, 03:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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great pic and thanks again when i git the all the work done ill let everyone know if it fixed my problem im preaty sure it will at least i hope so.... if i run into any problems ill besure and git back on thanks for all the help.

Now i just gota git home to git it all done less than a month to go tho thanks guys
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Just to let everyone know what is going on i broke down and had my dad take the truck and have it put on a computer to run test on injectors. BINGO it showed that 2 are workn rite 2 are dead and the other 4 are showing real weak so injectors it is i would say. ordering injectors on friday going to have the guy that run the test on the truck put them in along with all the other stuff i am replacing. dont realy want to but im wanting it fixed befor i git home. when it is done and back togather i will let everyone know if it fixed or not im going to say it will be tho
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Old 10-12-2010, 07:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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What injectors are you ordering and where are you getting them? Please don't say rebuilds from Pensacola diesel.
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