Hey fella's....can use some help on this one...got me stumped.
Pulling a horse trailer in 2nd or 3rd gear the motor just shut off.....no noise, nothin. Now it wont start.
got white smoke while cranking, RPMs show over 100, so cam shaft workin, service engine light does that quick blink so PMC is good, verified ICP was good, rebuilt the IPR, even unplugged the fuel bowl heater.....what next?
Does your Wait To Start light cycle normally? If not, re-check fuse #30. If it does, check the tin nut on your IPR valve. It may be laying down in the valley. If that's ok, open your fuel bowl drain and cycle the key while watching for fuel to spray out of the drain line. Got fuel? Check your oil level. If that's ok, you really need to get a scan tool on it while cranking to see what's going on.
The white smoke while cranking is a bit troubling - in that it should start if it is truly fueling. If you are getting fuel like the smoke would indicate you are, and the engine was warm as it should be if you were already cruising down the road, then a no start might point to some mechanical failure. That would be exceeding rare, but theoretically possible.
thanks for the reply RT, yes my wait to start cycles normally. it dies running and even warm it wouldn't start. I thought it might be the IPR so I checked that, looked good and even rebuilt it. I haven ran out of fuel in my fuel bowl...so its getting fuel to the bowl and the white smoke tells me it getting to the motor. I also checked the oil level in the motor and HPOP and both are good.
I have a Bluetooth adapter coming so I can check real time while cranking through torque as my scanner doesn't do that.
The EBP sensor is known to short out and take out other sensors that share the same reference voltage circuit. It certainly wouldn't hurt to unplug it and try. If it was shorted, it could alter the ICP sensor's data. Still - white smoke means fuel. Compression (heat) and fuel should at least let try to start.
Go with the p1212 might have to check the resistance in the icp wires in the harness I can get that I can get digram check pin 90(brown/white) of the pcm from the icp it also has on the same line icp, cmp,map, and baro is the ground side of the pcm. Gray/red wire hooks up to the hot side of the pcm.
p1280 ICP Circuit Out of Range Low
Possible causes:
biased ICP sensor/PCM
open ICP sensor circuit
short to SIG RTN or PWR GND on ICP sensor circuit
open in VREF circuit
p1210 Injection Control Pressure Above Expected Level
Possible causes:
biased ICP sensor
open ICP signal return
signal circuit shorted to power
damaged PCM
p0472 Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
Possible causes:
open EBP sensor circuit
biased sensor/PCM
short to SIGN RTN or PWR GND on EBP sensor circuit
open in VREF circuit
p1212 ICP Voltage Not at Expected Level
Possible causes:
high-pressure oil system repair
empty/low oil reservoir at crank
low engine oil level or incorrect viscosity
IPR circuit fault
damaged low-pressure oil pump
damaged IPR valve
damaged ICP sensor
damaged high-pressure oil pump
Those codes taken together point to wiring problems. I would pull the wiring connector off the ICP sensor and make sure the wires aren't shorting together and try to start with the sensor unplugged. Also check the engine harness to be sure something isn't shorting out.
If you don't find anything, you'd need to go thru the pinpoint tests for each of those codes.
The sensors all use the same 5V Vref circuit from the PCM, and if that shorts out, it'll take everything out and the engine will die. It sounds like you may have a vibration induced short that's intermittent.
The P1210 is the most telling code to me - that indicates the PCM saw too much voltage come across the sensor wires - like Kevin said - probably a short between the vREF and sensor wires on the pigtail. I suspect those wires have chaffed and are touching each other. Here's what that would do - the PCM gauges the IC pressure based on the feedback from that sensor. If it was shorted, the PCM would think the pressure was too high. It would open the IPR valve to bleed off pressure accordingly. BUT, since the pressure is MEASURED at over 500, it would fire the injectors even though the ACTUAL pressure may be close to zero because the IPR valve is wide open. I'm pretty sure you will find your problem there.
I'm not so sure, although that bare wire isn't good. That's your injector/glow plug connector, and there's no Vref signal in that bundle. You do have some oil which tends to deteriorate wiring, so that should be fixed up.
The connector to the ICP sensor will have on terminal with 5 volts and one that returns to the PCM with the signal voltage. The P1210 means that sensor wire was seeing too high voltage- like it was shorted against the 5 volt wire. It's not uncommon to see those wires chaffed right at the back of the plug.
so I pulled my wire covers from the ICP, IRP, EBP, EOT, and fuel heater to the main trunk...the EBP and ICP look like this..cracks and some chaffing, but nothing "worn" through. I separated them from touching/jumping each other, tried starting and nothing still. Should that work if the wires were shorting each-other out? I have some pigtails coming to replace in a few days., but should I keep looking?
so I pulled my wire covers from the ICP, IRP, EBP, EOT, and fuel heater to the main trunk...the EBP and ICP look like this..cracks and some chaffing, but nothing "worn" through. I separated them from touching/jumping each other, tried starting and nothing still. I have some pigtails comming to replace in a few days.
You said you had 5 volts at he ICP sensor pigtail, right? So, with the key off, put one probe in that spot and the other probe in one of the other holes while you have your meter set to ohm. If you get continuity (screen displays ZERO), then you've got a direct connection between those two wire. Probe both the other spots while you have one probe in the spot where you had 5 volts.
One wire is the vRef (that's the one you got 5 volts on), one is a signal return wire shared by all the sensors that use vRef, and one is a signal return wire specific to the ICP sensor. None of those should show continuity with each other when the key is off.
So i took the ICP and EBP. Both showed 0 when going from wire to wire. there was some negative readings on both, but id wiggle it around and it would go to 0.
so my 99 just died while towing down the road and wont start. changed CPS,IPR, IPC, cleaned out EGR (since it was replaced recently) and all new pigtails.White smoke when it cranks so its getting and burning fuel, comes close to start but dosent. even warm after two hours of block heater on.
When you say you changed IPC what do you mean? Did you change the ICP sensor? Also our trucks don't have an EGR valve so I assume you mean EBPS??
Something is wrong with your HPOP reading, there's no way it can be that high at cranking speed. If you did indeed change the ICP sensor did you use OEM? (the ICP sensor is what reports the HPOP pressure)
Hey BigB, thanks for the reply, yes the ICP sensor, I even swapped it out with one that I new worked in my buddy's truck and it didn't start, got a new one anyway, but no it was aftermarket. Yes I meant the EBPS.
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