99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I have a '02 f350 I purchased from my neighbor 6 months ago. It ran great 2 weeks ago. 3 weeks ago I had the CPS replaced at ford, when I picked it up it seem to idle rougher and seem to lack the power it had when I dropped it off in the morning. It had a #4, #5, #8 contribution failure codes stored, so I replaced the CPS with a "black" CPS from international. It seem to idle better but #4 still fails the contribution test and rotational velosity bounces between 0-18% so I'm thinking # 4 injector is going bad, # 5 will bounce up to 8-10% but they are next to each other in the firing order so I'm thinking its #4 affecting #5. So I got a new injector, but before i had a chance to replace it I lost oil pressure on the factory gauge, I replaced the sending unit on top of HPOP res. still no pressure. When the oil pressure gauge started acting up the trans gauge started acting weird also, when I start the truck it comes up to the bottom of the scale and withing 30 seconds it is 3/4 up the scale. I have a Genisys scanner, trans temp showed 59* at the bottom of the scale and when it went to 3/4 the fluid was only 68*. The oil level stays the same in the HPOP res. about 1/4-1/2" below the filler plug after starting and after sitting for 10 hours. I tried changing the oil, I cut the filter open and looked for any bearing material, it was clean. I changed the low pressure oil pump, it had more play in the housing then the new one, but still not enough to move the gauge, there were no marks on the timing cover, where it may have been grinding the cover and losing pressure. The guy i bought it from changed the oil every 4000 miles with rotella and a wix filter (has the recipts to prove it) ICP is 550-625 at idle and will climb to over 1500 psi just reving in neutral. I tried adding a quart of oil and jacking the rear of the truck up, no change in pressure. Also the turbo makes a "gurgling" sound when you let off the gas, almost like wastegate is no opening fast enough to vent pressure and its rattling the turbo. The turbo shaft spins free and there is no movement in the shaft. I know it need a # 4 injector based on rotational velostiy readings, but I want/need to fix the oil pressure problem first. So far I have checked/changed
CPS with international part
Oil pressure sending unit for the gauge
LP oil pump, and check cover for wear
Added a quart of oil and jacked the rear of the truck
Oil level in HPOP res. hot/cold
verified ICP pressure idling and reving
Do the clusters in these trucks go bad? Any known electrical issues with oil pressure/trans temp wiring harness? Does the wiring go directly to the cluster or does it go through a module? I have alot of automotive experiance but this is my first diesel and first Ford, so I'm going over the basics but need a little more insight from a pro, any help/ideas would be appriciated, thanks
Rob
Sorry for the long post, just tring to give you as much info as possible, thanks
Sorry for the long post, just tring to give you as much info as possible, thanks
Never apologize for a detailed post!!!
Have you done a "buzz test"? I doubt it will show anything but the UVCH could be worn through and causing electrical issues with the truck. Like I say I doubt that would be the deal but a quick and easy test to perform. If not pull the valve covers and inspect the UVCH for loose connections (which happen often) and worn wires (pushrod contact). Just something else to check.
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Ken
2002 F-350 CCLB 4X4, HD4R100 , Riffraff FRx, Riffraff CAC Boots & PRI's, Bellowed Up-Pipes, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust, Powerslot rotors, ATS Ported Compressor Housing, DP Tuner-F6, Autoenginuity, EEC-V Breakout Box, KCM S.S. HPX Line, S&B Filters intake, Quad Autometer gauge pod, Inovations canopy, Banks Big Head wastegate actuator, 6.0L Trans Cooler, Spin-on Transmission filter with custom bracket, Zoo-dad, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, Cobra 29LTD/NW CB, DVD and always looking to do more....
Have you done a "buzz test"? I doubt it will show anything but the UVCH could be worn through and causing electrical issues with the truck. Like I say I doubt that would be the deal but a quick and easy test to perform. If not pull the valve covers and inspect the UVCH for loose connections (which happen often) and worn wires (pushrod contact). Just something else to check.
Buzz test passes, but # 4 does sound different. The tach jumps to 1000 when on all but # 4, it only goes to 750ish.
Did you verify it has low oil pressure or just an electrical issue with the gauge? I was under the impression it was a gauge issue. I only mention the UVCH as it could be grounding out on the valvetrain causing trons to go places they shouldn't. Seems like they should be isolated......but you never know!
__________________
Ken
2002 F-350 CCLB 4X4, HD4R100 , Riffraff FRx, Riffraff CAC Boots & PRI's, Bellowed Up-Pipes, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust, Powerslot rotors, ATS Ported Compressor Housing, DP Tuner-F6, Autoenginuity, EEC-V Breakout Box, KCM S.S. HPX Line, S&B Filters intake, Quad Autometer gauge pod, Inovations canopy, Banks Big Head wastegate actuator, 6.0L Trans Cooler, Spin-on Transmission filter with custom bracket, Zoo-dad, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, Cobra 29LTD/NW CB, DVD and always looking to do more....
I know its a one wire, I wanted a diagram to see if it goes directly to the gauge or the the GEM or another module and to see, if the oil pressure and trans temp wire run parallel with each other causing the 2 gauges to read inacuratly, thanks
I unplugged the sending unit and grounded the wire, and the gauge works correctly. So now I know its not an electrical issue. I finally located my pressure gauge so I am going to test that this weekend. I looked at the check valve in the oil filter housing when i changed the oil, it seemed to move easily, could the spring in the check valve go bad?
If I take it apart can I shim it to keep it seated? And if that was opening could that contribute to the apparent low oil pressure??
Not sure if there is a known load to apply to the ball valve to open it. Usually these work off of differential pressure. So if the oil filter gets clogged and no oil is flowing the ball valve will open. The differential pressure part of it is, when working properly the ball as oil pressure on the opposite side (spring side) that keeps it closed along with spring pressure, if filtered oil flow (pressure) is lost or lowered due to a restriction, the unfiltered oil pressure would overcome the spring only pressure and open. Not saying this is exactly how the one's on our trucks work, but I would imagine it is.
Oil pressure per the factory manual I have is listed as this:
Well after breaking my foot a month ago, I finally got a chance to look at it yesterday. It broke #4 intake and exhaust rocker stands... so I got a set from international, now I've got plently of oil pressure, smooth idle, and no chug coming from the turbo. The worst part, I couldn't hear it over the diesel rattle... At least its fixed, thanks for all your help!!
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