Autozone Water Pump, 203F Tstat, & Delo ELC

[robertth]

Am hoping I'm doing the right thing and would like candid comments. I have an Eastern Water Pump put on in 2005 that has 105K miles on it and have been noticing a little bit of a grinding sound. I released the tension on the belt and turned the fan and am pretty sure it is the water pump making the noise (unless it the clutch?). I have been wanting to upgrade from G-05 to Delo ELC and change to the 203F thermostat. I'm planning on using Autozone's Duralast water pump, which comes with a lifetime (limited) warrantee. I would be using the Permatex's RTV for Thermostats and Water Pumps (Greyish tube) on the Water inlet hose and the Tstat and the Water Pump seal. I would flush with hose water and distilled twice, after the new water pump is in place. I could only get 50/50 on the Delo ELC but will look into getting a gallon of concentrate for adjusting to the right level, since there will be some pure distilled left in the block.

Am I doing the right thing? Could it be better?

A couple of the things I am worried about: 1) 203F tstat and the higher coolant temps effect on the life of the pump, hoses, o-rings, etc. and 2) whether the RTV from Permatex, which says it is specially for water pumps is actually compatible with the red Delo ELC coolant.

Any comments or experiences gratefully accepted.

[klhansen]

1. The 203deg thermostat shouldn't significantly affect the life of anything. I've run it for quite a few years and haven't had any ill effects that I could pin on the thermostat.

2. I'm guessing, but I can't see where it would cause a problem. I don't have any direct experience with that sealant. The composition of ELC is the same as "green" coolant except for some additives, probably less than 2-3% by volume. Give RT a shout. He's used ELC coolant and would know more about it.

[RT]

You're plan sounds good to me - probably should put the gallon of concentrate in first and fill the rest with the 50/50.

You really don't need to use Permatex for anything other than holding the o-ring gasket in place while you fit the water pump. There is nothing in the ELC that is going to hurt it. I use Permatex #2 for this purpose, but the RTV should work just fine. Don't go heavy on the stuff - you don't want chunks breaking lose and sealing off the oil cooler.

[robertth]

Thanks for the reassurances. I hope the Autozone warrantee is good and that I don't have to ever find out.

I guess another thing that could be a gotcha for some, is the correct torque setting for the water pump bolts. My Helm manuals, which I got in 2000, say that the torque is supposed to be something in the 35+ or - range. I think the correct number is something like 15-18 ft-lbs, about half what the Helm manuals said. I think that this is well known misinformation, so just in case anyone else is doing this, remember the original manuals had a torque spec that was about double what it should have been. The right number is 18 ft-lbs. See this thread for more info: Water Pump bolt torque on 1999 7.3?

[TxToy]

I would do (and did back in July) the full system flush with the old pump in place so you don't flush any crap into the new pump.

[robertth]

I would like to rinse before switching the pump. I have the option this time, since the pump still works (so far). Last time the bearings failed.

But, I don't think I will be able to do the whole job in one day and would rather not leave plain water in the block overnight. So, I thought I would just drain as much G-05 coolant as I need to to take off the old and put back on the new water pump. Then do the whole rinse the next day. I don't see any residue in the degas bottle. I'm thinking it should be pretty clean already. In the couple of gallons I drained out recently, I didn't see any debris at all.

How big a deal is leaving plain water in the block over night? I was assuming that some rust might take hold in just a few hours. Maybe I'm wrong and it would be better to rinse everything through the system using the old pump.

[TxToy]

It will take you about as long to do the double flush as to replace the pump, can get it all done in 4-5 hours taking your time. I would try to do all at once and not leave tap water in the block overnight. Maybe it wouldn't be an issue, I don't know. Follow Gooch's instructions in FAQ for coolant flush if you haven't already looked at it.

[klhansen]

There's no real issue with leaving plain water in the block overnight. It isn't going to instantly corrode. The issue with water is that it doesn't provide any cavitation protection. Coolant does have corrosion inhibitor in it, but the time spent without that protection if you leave water in it is insignificant.

[96Cobra]

Not sure if you know/care, but rockauto.com has the Airtex water pump for $71 vs AutoZone's $137. If you search, you can find 5% off codes & knock a couple more $ off.

[robertth]

Actually the Autozone pump is 148.99. But it has their lifetime warrantee, so hopefully 100k miles/7 years from now, I will get a new one for free. Don't know if this is the best option. Anyone know who makes the Autozone pump? It looks identical to the one sold at O'Reilly's, which was 149.99 and also has a lifetime warrantee. Again, I don't know that this was the best route to go. I went with the Autozone version because I had the impression they had more store fronts nationwide.

[96Cobra]

The $137 price I mentioned was what it showed for me locally, not sure what part of country you live in. I understand about easy access to replacements if it ever dies again. OTOH, 2 pumps from rockauto cost the same as 1 from AutoZone (not sure on shipping $). I'm just a few miles under 250,000 and still on my original water pump.

[7MAGMIKE]

As long as that Autozone pump IS NOT a rebuilt part you are OK, I would never use a remanufactured water pump on anything. Otherwise looks like a good plan.