99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
What is the easiest way to flush the coolant system? I have read alot about starting the truck shutting it off draining this and that then start it again and repeat about 8 times. Not to familiar about how the system flows but couldn't you just unhook the hose that goes into the top of the degass bottle and start the truck and drain the hose into the bucket and just keep adding water as it drops in the resivoir and when clear water comes out your done? Just tryin to find an easier way. Also is all ELC coolant yellow?
These are written to change the coolant from green to gold or to an ELC coolant. What year is your truck? If you already have the Motorcraft Gold coolant, you probably do not need to flush it 8 times.
I recently did mine and I bought 20 gallons of distilled water for the flush. My truck had the gold coolant from the factory. I drained it, flushed it a few times with the garden hose. Then I ran 2 full distilled water flushes to get rid of the hose water. So do it a couple times and you will be ok if keeping with the original fluid type.
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Ken
2002 F-350 CCLB 4X4, HD4R100 , Riffraff FRx, Riffraff CAC Boots & PRI's, Bellowed Up-Pipes, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust, Powerslot rotors, ATS Ported Compressor Housing, DP Tuner-F6, Autoenginuity, EEC-V Breakout Box, KCM S.S. HPX Line, S&B Filters intake, Quad Autometer gauge pod, Inovations canopy, Banks Big Head wastegate actuator, 6.0L Trans Cooler, Spin-on Transmission filter with custom bracket, Zoo-dad, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, Cobra 29LTD/NW CB, DVD and always looking to do more....
1973 K5 Blazer 383stroker,TrickFlow alum.heads,Crower forged rods-roller lifter cam-roller rockers,Keith Black10.5:1,Doug Thorley tri-y,MSD,ARP,Q-jet,on 1 ton axles,1991 front clip,3K miles on FULL body off rebuild
The "best" way is to drain all the gunk out and then back flush. Gooch'sCoolant Changing Instructions are the best I've seen. It worked great for me and had all the pictures, torque specs, parts, and tips to do it right. The "easy" way is to do what you suggest...drain the radiator, fill it back up with water, drive truck till thermostat opens, then do it all over again, over and over and over. But you never get all the old antifreeze out, or the gunk. It will take forever plus a tank of fuel since the thermostat won't open just idling. Doing it right isn't as bad as it looks. Took me just over an hour.
I found most ELC antifreeze is red. It will usually say "heavy duty" and have specs like EC-1. It is maintenance free and no SCA needed. The yellow or gold stuff is usually Motorcraft gold or Zerex G05. Ford now says in a TSB that if you're going to use the gold stuff in a diesel you need to test and add SCA or engine damage could result...a supposidly maintenance free coolant that you have to maintain...no thanks.
I second doing the "Best" instead of easy. I am NO mechanic, but have decent skills with tools. I am new to diesel, 18 months now, and I preformed the coolant change per the instructions linked above.
It was pretty easy. I changed the thermostat, thermostat housing, and to the upper hose that routes around the serpentine belt. The worst part of my experence was not looking for the fire ants on the edge of the driveway.
__________________ '02 F-350 CC LB 4x4 DRW 4.10
148,*** miles, stock motor, original trans
It's a 2001 when I got it it had green coolant in it I got it from a Ford dealership so was figuring they put the right crap in but who knows. I was gona use the prestone heavy duty antifreeze black jug it says it's pre charged. they have it at car quest and i get 50% off through work so I can get it cheap anybody used this kind?
New to the site. I've looked around and don't see a link to TSB's. I've not heard of monitoring SCA's in the Motorcraft gold or Zerex G-05 type coolants. Anyone else heard this, or have access to the TSB?
It's a 2001 when I got it it had green coolant in it I got it from a Ford dealership so was figuring they put the right crap in but who knows.
Your 2001 came from the factory with green coolant and supplemental coolant additive (SCA). It requires you to maintain the SCA. The "book" says you must have between 1.2 and 3.0 SCA units per gallon. But SCA is hard on the water pump, so I never allowed more than about 2.0 SCA units per gallon in mine before I changed to the gold coolant.
Quote:
I was gona use the prestone heavy duty antifreeze black jug it says it's pre charged.
That antifreeze is green coolant pre-charged with SCA. So you don't need to add SCA when you first change the coolant, but you must check it and maintain it just like other green coolant with SCA. (No, Prestone Heavy duty is not green color, but it's the same properties as green coolant except it already has the SCA in it.)
Ford now recommends G-05 coolant, either Motorcraft Premium Gold or Zerex G-05. It requires no maintenance for most of us, but if you drive long and hard you should check the level of SCA every oil change or so. If you change to the G-05 coolant, you need to flush the cooling system really well to get all the old coolant out of the system before you pour in the new antifreeze. Gooch's procedures linked to above is an excellent way to DIY.
Gooch and a lot of others now recommend a longer-lasting ELC coolant, but Ford has never approved any ELC except G-05 for our '99-up 7.3L engines
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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it last year. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat.
New to the site. I've looked around and don't see a link to TSB's. I've not heard of monitoring SCA's in the Motorcraft gold or Zerex G-05 type coolants. Anyone else heard this, or have access to the TSB?
We hid the TSBs in the '94-'97 FAQ, but the last one posted for your truck was around 2005. So we don't have the latest ones, and the one you're talking about was not published until April, 2009.
Anti-Ford and anti-G-05 coolant folks have made a big deal out of that TSB, but it's not as bad as they make it sound. Only a very few owners with 6.0L diesel engines and 6.4L diesel engines have had a problem with their G-05 coolant not lasting the full 100,000 miles on the factory fill, or 50,000 miles on a change of coolant using distilled water and proper procedures. And for those few that had problems it was usually their own fault for not using distilled water instead of tap water, or in topping off with a different antifreeze. Ford has had the gold coolant in use as a factory fill since the summer of 2001, and they didn't publish a TSB about it until 8 years later. So it's not a big deal for most of us that follow proper cooling system maintenance. And the TSB doesn't even apply to 7.3Ls, so apparently there have been no reported problems with our trucks.
TheDieselStop editor won't copy imbedded charts and photos, so here is the words from that TSB. Read it for yourself, and if you want more info, then find a complete copy somewhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Motor Company
TSB
09-8-5 DIESEL COOLANT MAINTENANCE - SERVICE TIPS
ISSUE:
This TSB is to provide additional information to supplement the Workshop Manual (WSM) and Owner Guide information on the importance of cooling system maintenance for diesel engine equipped vehicles. Some customers, using their trucks under special operating conditions, indicate that operating with insufficient coolant strength (antifreeze or anticorrosion) can result in significant engine damage. Insufficient coolant strength can result when:
Cooling system pressure and coolant is lost.
The coolant level is topped off using the incorrect coolant.
The coolant is mixed with hard water.
Coolant is mixed at the incorrect concentration.
Vehicles are operated under the special operating conditions as defined in the maintenance schedule (heavy commercial use that results in frequent or extensive idling, frequent low speed/rush hour traffic use; vehicles operated under special conditions such as: sustained high speed driving at maximum GVWR load, towing a trailer, using a slide in camper (F-Super Duty) or car top carrier (E-Series).
Proper cooling system maintenance is critical for maximum engine performance and efficiency on today's high technology diesel engines. It is essential that; the proper coolant is used, the coolant level is checked routinely, the coolant strength (antifreeze and anticorrosion property) is tested frequently and that the cooling system is flushed (with Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner) at the proper intervals.
ACTION:
Check and maintain the coolant strength (antifreeze and anticorrosion) and flush the cooling system using the recommended service procedures and frequencies detailed below.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Inspect the coolant color as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. If the coolant is not a clear or pale yellow color and has not had any coolant additive added, flush the cooling system with Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner and refill with a 50/50 mix of Motorcraft® Premium Gold Coolant and distilled water. No further action is required at this time. If the coolant is clear or pale yellow, proceed to Step 2.
2. Recommend measure coolant antifreeze strength. Measure the antifreeze strength following the recommended frequencies detailed in the chart below. A 50/50 mix provides protection to -34 °F (-36 °C), for operation below this level, refer to the 3. applicable Owner Guide and WSM for specifications. Proceed to Step 3.
3. Recommend checking coolant anticorrosion strength. Check the anticorrosion strength (nitrite level) of the coolant using the Rotunda 3-Way HD Antifreeze Test Strip Kit part number 328-00001 , 1-800-Rotunda (768-8632) option 2 or equivalent. Perform coolant anticorrosion strength at the frequencies recommended. (Figure 1)
NOTE: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE SERVICE PROCEDURE AS INDICATED CAN RESULT IN INACCURATE TEST RESULTS.
4. Instructions for coolant testing:
Start with clean, dry hands and utensils.
NOTE: COOLANT MUST BE BETWEEN 50 °F AND 130 °F (10 °C 54 °C) WHEN TESTED. ROOM TEMPERATURE IS PREFERRED.
Collect coolant sample from the (degas bottle) or radiator drain valve.
Remove one strip from the bottle. Do not touch the pads on the end of the strip. Discard strip if nitrite test pad has turned brown.
Dip strip in coolant sample for one second, remove, and shake strip briskly to remove excess liquid.
NOTE: FOR BEST RESULTS FOLLOW TEST TIMES CAREFULLY. USE A STOPWATCH OR CLOCK WITH A SWEEP SECOND HAND.
Wait 45 seconds but no longer than 75 seconds after dipping strip to compare and record results in the following order:
Compare FREEZEPOINT (end pad) to color chart on bottle and record result.
Compare NITRITE (end pad closest to handle) test to color chart on bottle.
The middle pad is for MOLYBDATE which is not a performance measurement used in determining maintenance requirements for these applications.
It is okay to estimate a value between color blocks, but if uncertain about the color match, pick the lower numbered block, for example if nitrite color is between F and E, use column E.
5. Coolant test results:
If the nitrite level exceeds 800 parts per million (PPM), no action is required, anticorrosion strength meets specification.
If the nitrite level is between 300 PPM and 800 PPM, anticorrosion strength is low. Add 32 fluid ounces of Motorcraft® Diesel Cooling System Additive.
If nitrite level is less than 300 PPM, anticorrosion strength is very low and cannot be restored. Refer to Step 6.
6. Flush the cooling system with Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner and refill with 50/50 mix of Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. A 50/50 mix of the Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water provides the proper cooling system protection and nitrite level for operating temperatures to -34 °F (-36 °C).
CAUTION: DO NOT ADD MOTORCRAFT® DIESEL COOLING SYSTEM ADDITIVE WHEN REFILLING THE COOLING SYSTEM AFTER A COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH WITH MOTORCRAFT® ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM IRON CLEANER. THIS MAY LEAD TO POSSIBLE ENGINE DAMAGE DUE TO VERY HIGH NITRITE LEVEL CONCENTRATIONS.
Verify pressure relief cap integrity by using the WSM, Section 303-03.
Follow recommended coolant service intervals: Perform the updated flush and fill procedures under the special operating conditions and frequencies recommended in the chart below: (Figure 1)
PART NUMBER PART NAME
VC-8 Motorcraft® Diesel Cooling System Additive
VC-9 Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner
VC-7-B Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent
9C3Z-8101-A Pressure Relief Cap
328-00001 Rotunda 3-Way HD Antifreeze Test Strip Kit (1-800-Rotunda (768-8632) Option 2)
WARRANTY STATUS:
Information Only - Not Warrantable
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.
If you change the coolant, don't misunderstand the phrase "refill with 50/50 mix of Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water ". That does NOT mean you can use 50/50 pre-mixed antifreese. It means that after you finish the job you should have a 50/50 mix in the cooling system. So after there is nothing in your heater core but distilled water, then if you follow Gooch's procedures and pour in 4 gallons of concentrate antifreese and top off with distilled water, that should result in at least a 50/50 mix. (On mine, it results in about a 57/43 mix, which is good for colder country.)
Figure 1 doesn't copy over, but basically it says with a 6.0L diesel engine, an option is to check the gold coolant with test strips every 15,000 miles, change the factory fill at 105,000 miles, and thereafter change it every 50,000 miles. If you want to be double sure, then apply the same rules to your 7.3L engine.
Last edited by SmokeyWren; 11-19-2009 at 12:27 PM.
1975 FJ-40 Land Cruiser, 350TBI, Muncie 465 trans, ARBs, York on-board air, 4-link rear suspension, Blazer tilt column, Mazda sport buckets, full roll cage, towed on 18' Big Tex trailer
For clarification, the TSB applies to Ford diesel engine equipped vehicles using the gold, including the 7.3. Most all 2003 E-250, E-350, E-450 diesels specified in that TSB came with the 7.3. The TSB only goes back to 2003 because that’s when Ford started using gold coolant in diesel applications. So if you use the gold, you need to test and add SCA. I would take the TSB seriously.
The reason for the TSB isn’t because msot people used the wrong water, or topped off with different coolant. Not sure how you concluded that. People have been doing that for decades without Ford issuing a special TSB. The TSB is because the gold does not stand up to diesel use without SCA maintenance. It performed poorly for enough people, and caused enough damage over the years, that Ford had to initiate an expensive TSB. I did a search here and found several old cases were people found their gold coolant low on protection. International has recommended ELC for over 10 years in tougher applications, and never had to issue a TSB like that.
I wouldn’t worry about Ford’s coolant recommendation. They only recommend what they sell. Ford isn’t going to pay the costs of carrying a better ELC coolant for the one diesel they sell, when it isn’t even their own. The gold is obviously a compromise in their diesel application as we found out with the TSB.
I’d be more interested in International’s recommendation. They made the engine. For the past 10 years they’ve recommend ELC. That recommendation is based on a heavy duty diesel spec, not the light duty gasoline spec Ford uses for the diesel.
Ford has a poor history with coolant recommendations. When they first started selling International’s 6.9 IDI they neglected to recommend using any SCA at all. Hello cavitation. They never did recommend testing SCA levels in any 7.3 – just adding x amount of SCA every 15,000 miles. Hello water pump failures. In fact you couldn’t even buy test strips at the dealer. Now we have the gold thing – a "maintenance free" coolant that requires SCA maintenance. If Ford has used the right coolant instead of looking for a shortcut, there would be no TSB.
I’m always amazed at people who do things Ford doesn’t recommend– coolant filters, modified exhausts, intakes, chips, bypass filtration, synthetics, and then get hung up on using only the coolant Ford recommends, passing up better ELC coolants that the engine maker recommends. That makes about as much sense as having to maintain Ford’s “maintenance free” gold coolant.
The TSB only goes back to 2003 because that’s when Ford started using gold coolant in diesel applications.
Ford began installing G-05 gold coolant at the Kentucky Truck Plant (KTP) in the summer of 2001, in the first of the 2002 models. The Ford truck plant in Mexico produced a few SuperDuty diesel pickups back then, but they didn't change over to the G-05 coolant until a few months after KTP started.
Nevertheless, most 2002 and all 2003 7.3L diesels came from the factory with gold coolant. And yet they are not included in the TSB.
The TSB includes the 7.3L. The 2003 E-350, E-450, E-550, (and some F-Super Duty vehicles) listed in that TSB were manufactured with only the 7.3L engine, and filled with gold coolant.
I doubt the 2001-02 models would be included in the TSB. Those 7.3L’s were still coming from International’s Indianapolis engine plant with SCA paste in the block to boost protection. That ended for 2003 models when the transition from green to gold ended.
If you use or converted to gold coolant in your 7.3, you need to test it and add SCA as needed. Or just flush it out and use a better coolant like International recommends. I don’t understand the encouragement to ignore the TSB, or the reluctance to recognize the poorer performance of the gold and perform such a simple test. Hey, it’s your truck.
The TSB looks to be more about checking the nitrite level (cavitation inhibitor) than top off dilution. Checking the color, freeze point, using the correct water, and mixing coolants, doesn’t require a special TSB. That stuff’s already in the Owner’s Manual. The TSB was clearly issued to address the fact that the “maintenance free” gold coolant requires maintenance when used in a Ford diesel.
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