99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I’ve read that some of us have changed from ESOF to manual lockouts and I'm at the point of deciding what direction to take.
I am trying to decide weather it would be better to re-build my factory hubs or abandon them and install the Warn type of lock-out. My factory hubs no longer lock in with the switch and the O-rings are sticking out by the dial on the hub so that I can't even manually change them to lock. Because it was so hard to turn the dial we tried to force them and cracked the plastic dial, so do you think that I should rebuild this and replace the dial or just totally go to the manuals.
I do prefer the ESOF because I would rather just flip a switch and keep driving and not have to stop & get out of the truck to turn a dial, but how expensive is it to rebuild the factory hubs/o-rings & do I need to replace the plastic dial (or can I seal the crack and use it as is?)?
I was in the same position. My factory ones seized up on me. I looked into getting a rebuild kit, but they are not available. They are sold complete and they are expensive. I decided to go manual and put the Warns in. This past week was my 1st experience with manual. Locking them in is no biggie. Just lock them in and leave it when you anticipate poor road conditions. Then just go in and out of 4x with the dash switch. Today, 2 days after the foot of snow has been cleared and the roads are dry, I simply put them back into the 'free' position. Took like 15 seconds. A lot of guys just leave them locked in all the time. A little more drag on the drive train,a little less fuel economy, but not too bad. Mind you the ones who leave them locked have to deal with poor road conditions all the time. The realiability factor with the Warn's will out do the factory ones by a mile. My 2 cents. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
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2001 F350 CC SWB 6spd WHITE 8.5" on 37's. Currently getting a complete makeover......stay tuned.
What LooseWheel said, same situation with mine. Replaced with Warn's and all is good. My stockers would seize up and I got tired of pulling them and cleaning.
The other advantage is you can go into 2wd low by just going into 4Lo. I use this all the time with backing my trailer up my hill of a driveway. Yes you can do a mode to allow this with stock hubs but mine didn't work too well.
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2000 4x4 PSD Limited Excursion The Beast
DPTuner 40Tow, 60Tow, 80Econo, BTS Valve Body, AIS Intake, AIH Delete, MBRP Stainless 3.5" DP and 4" Exhaust, 5" All spring Edge lift, Rize Traction Bars, CV joint driveshaft, 315 BFG ATs on Alcoa wheels, Warn Transformer with multi mount winch power front and back, 1000 watt power inverter, VCR, 4.10 gears and ARB Lockers Front and Back
I happen to like the ESOF as it was designed. Mine has not given me any problems and there are a bunch of times that I like being able to select it from the cab. As far a 2Low goes, just unplug the vacuum solenoid or put in a switch like I did. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
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2011 f250 XLT 4X4 Crew Cab.
SOLD - 2001 F250 XLT 7.3L SC/SB 4x4 (ESOF) - Tranny Upgrades; SCMT 1705; AIS Intake w/trimmed Snorkel; ZooDad; Turbo back 4" Exhaust; Issopro Pillar Mount Gauges; TC lockup LED; Auto Magic Heater Bypass; 2W Low Switch.
If it were mine I'd fix the auto hubs. They are expensive though. Around $300 per hub from the dealer. A lot less (used) off of Ebay. I might switch mine to 4wd 4 or 5 times a day sometimes. Then it might be a month before I use it again.
Joe
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2002 F350, Crew Cab, 4WD, ISSOPRO Gauges,
3.73, Auto, 2wd low range mod, No door dinger,
Interior lights off switch, Zoodad Mod,
Extra Trans Cooler, Before coolers trans fltr,
Coolant fltr, Crimestopper remote start/alarm
Oil Guard Bypass, Air horns
I went with the Warns and would never go back to the auto. One auto hub is $295 i bought a Warn kit with 2 hubs and every thing to put them in (which consists of a snap ring) for $215 so i figered it was stuped to do any thing else.
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Early '99 excab long bed with a 7.3 and a six speed 4X4 Ultra lite pryo, boost, eng oil temp, tranny temp, diff temp DP 5po stock, hi idal, 80, 100, 120 BDP domminator turbo, 4" turbo back, open air intake, WARN hubs, '03 head lights, Recon led tail & third brake lights,. Dads is a '03 regular cab w/flatbed 7.3 w/auto tranny 4X4, Edge evulation open air intake.
--Also drive a '05 378 Peaterbilt w/C15 525hp Twin turbos 13speed 3 drive axels 55'long w/a Haybuster haygrinder mouted on it w/650hp C15 Cat powering the grinder w/flued cuppler clutch and hydra boom True diesel power
Cool Canuck - Where did you buy your heater bypass?
I'd like to get one. Can it be used with just the vent as well or does it just work with the MAX A/C on.
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EARLY 99' F350 7.3 CC 4X4 LB. DRW. AUTOMETER BOOST, PYRO, TRANS TEMP, WATER TEMP, FUEL PRESSURE - AIS INTAKE - 4" SS MBRP TURBO BACK - JOHN WOOD TRANS - 6.0 TRANS COOLER - CCV MOD - DP TUNER STOCK, DECEL, 20T, 40T, 60T, 80E, 120 RACE - OPTIMA BATTERIES - SUPERLIFT FRONT-END LEVELING KIT - 35" BFG A/T - 2" REAR SPACERS - DUAL FRONT RANCHO RX9000 - UPGRADED POST 99' 10MM HUB ASSY'S - SLOTTED BRAKE ROTORS - ORU/MAG-HYTEC TRANS PAN & DIFFERENTIAL COVERS - ITP SS HP-X - ITP REGULATED RETURN - HEATER BYPASS VALVE - AIRDOG - DIESELSITE COOLANT FILTER - DIESELSITE 203* TS WITH BILLET HOUSING - AMSOIL DUAL BYPASS - DIESELSITE EXTERNAL TRANS FILTER - FUMOTO VALVE - DC PERF 190 AMP ALTERNAOR - TOW 37' 5ER WEEKEND WARRIOR 15K WET W/ALL THE TOYS ON BOARD. <span style="color: blue">PIC OF MY RIG</span>
I bought the Warns and now I need to know do I have to plug any vaccum lines and if so do I need to buy anyting else & does anyone have pics on where this is done?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DandE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I bought the Warns and now I need to know do I have to plug any vaccum lines and if so do I need to buy anyting else & does anyone have pics on where this is done?
Dale </div></div>
Yes plug the vaccum lines at the hub or at the solenoid
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2001 F-250 7.3 Extended Cab Short Bed 4X4 Off Road Package, Limo Tint, 6 way Handshaker, AFE Stage 2 PG7, 4" DPPI Turbo back, Fumoto Valve, ISSOPRO Boost and EGT guages, Edge Evolution 80HP and AIH Plug.
I have the Warn manual hubs and wouldn't consider anything else. Once I manually lock in the hubs, I can shift into and out of 4WD on the fly just fine. This time of year I usually have them locked in all the time and just shift into 4WD when I need to. If I am going on a trip and the roads are bare, I'll go ahead and unlock them.
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NS, stock, 60HP tow, 80HP econo, Autometer Ultralites on pillar & cubby, Ford AIS w/Zoodad, '08 Aluminum Diff. Cover, 4" MBRP Exhaust, Heated Tow Mirrors, Warn Premium hubs, AIH Delete, Go's Headlight Harness, IC Foil Delete, Homemade CCV mod. The Silver Bullitt 
Explorer XLT - Mom's Taxi
Linear Mode
