99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Iam looking at picking up an 02 crew cab short box 4x4 powerstroke with auto tranny just wondering what things/problems to look for? it has a 110 000 miles on it. thanks for any help.
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99 F 250 lariat crew cab, 6 speed, South bend Con OFE, BD short shifter, 2.5" lift, 315/75R16 Toyo opencountry MT's on eagle alloy wheels, firestone airbags w/onboard comp. headlights off an 03, carbon fiber tailights, S&B cold air intake, Edge juice w/attitude, AIC, Fumoto valve, headlight wiring harness upgrade, MBRP cool duals, warn manual hubs, CCV mod, HX line. Dp tuner with 6 pos. Stock, 60 tow, 80 tow, 80 econo, 120 race, 140 smoke, just installed DI regulated return. Now as a Hypermax h2e and all related parts.
You need to use the search button as this is asked at least once a week or so. I have a few minutes and need practice typing so I will give you some basics.
If the truck has a drop in K&N filter runaway, they have been known to dust many diesel engines.
If it ran a chip or tuner, and did not have at least a Pyrometer, run away.
Pull the intake going from the airbox to the turbo, wipe your finger inside the intake tube. A coating of oil is normal but should be free from any grit or dirt. Shine a flashlight and look at the turbo fan blade, if it is bent or chipped it means it had injested dirt and I would not purchase it.
A Oasis report will show any work done by a Ford Dealer.
A Carfax report is suppose to show any major repairs but is not 100%.
Take a small magnet and go around all body panels in different places, if it doesn't stick it means bondo, don't use a real strong magnet because it will pull right through the bondo, a magnetic screw tip works good.
Check all fluids, kick the tires just like you would do with any vehicle, maintenance is the key to how much life is left in that engine. Good maintenance that thing can go 400K, poor maintenance and it could die before 150K.
If the seller will let you take a oil sample and send it off to Blackstone Labs you can get a good report as to the condition of the engine and past maintenance. Usually a small deposit will hold it for a week, and you can overnight the sample.
There I hope this helps.
NCHornet
PM me with any ??
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NCH
2000 Ford F350 4X4 Auto,Crew Cab Lariat, Western Hauler Package, Long bed,
Isspro EV Guages on A-Pillar, Coolant change from Green to Gold to Red,
SCT XCalibrator2 with DP's 60 tow,80 econo,120 Race
Fumoto Valve, Marinco Mod, Homemade CCV MOD,Fuel Neck Mod, KMC Wheels at all 4's
Monroe Reflex Shoxs, SS/Kevlar Brake Lines,
FTVB from Greg Evans,Ford AIS Intake
Coolant filter,Walker BTM, Attwood Gooseneck ball flush mount,6.0 cooler, 2002 headlights & corners
Zoodad Mod,Cyro'd Powerslots and Hawks LTS Pads. 2005 front grill
Turbo Lifesaver, Infinity Refrence x4, powered by Infinity Reference amp, sounds awesome!!
Towing a 2005 HORNET 30BHSS 8500 LBS,
Stopping it with a Prodigy P3 Controller
Friends Don't Let Friends Drive Trucks With Generic Tunes!!
Here's something I posted a while back on another forum...
Exterior:
-Check for rust around wheel wells, especially rear.
-Check for rust under rubber window seals, corners are culprit spots.
-Look for signs of a wreck, just like looking at any used vehicle.
Interior:
-Check seat condition for rips, tears, excessive wear.
-Make sure all electronics work, press every button you can find.
-My interior has been rock solid, so I don't know of any real weak spots to look for.
Engine:
-Pull the intake tube and run your finger inside checking for dust, dust = BAD!
-With the intake tube off, check the compressor wheel of the turbo, look for bad blades or play/movement with the impeller shaft. It should spin freely with no side/side movement.
-Check color and smell of transmission fluid.
-Check oil
-Coolant should be the gold kind, no additives needed.
-Look for oil leaks, engine valley and flywheel cover are two good spots to look at. Oil residue around the intercooler boots is completely normal.
Drivetrain:
-Look for leaks at the pinion seals.
-Check u-joints for play.
-Turn front hubs to see if they are frozen or working properly.
Test Drive:
-Crank engine, slight bit of smoke on startup is normal, especially if engine is cold. It should crank strong and start quickly if the batteries are strong and glow plugs work properly. Should settle to a smooth idle quickly.
-If the A/C is on when you crank the truck, you'll hear a "thump" in the floor a few seconds after startup, this is normal.
-During the drive check for smoke. A light grey haze should be normal on hard romps if the truck is stock. If it's chipped it should put out a darker and heavier smoke. White or blue smoke when driving = bad!
-Driving should be smooth through the entire rpm range, for 2002 models check for any hesitation with the throttle pedal. There was a recall that should have been fixed.
-Stock transmission should shift very smooth but not slip, and you probably won't feel the torque converter lock, but you'll see the rpm's move when it does. A tranny that shifts firm and quick probably has a shift kit or valve body put in, or chipped with firmer shifts programmed. Putting the truck in reverse will take a second to engage, this is normal.
-If equipped with electronic shift on the fly, put it in 4hi and see if the A/C defaults to defrost. If it does you have a vacuum leak.
-In 4x4, turning the wheel sharply while moving slow will "bounce" the front of the truck, this is normal and shows that it's working properly. Engage 4low by putting the truck in neutral, pressing your foot on the brake, and flipping the switch. Disengage 4low by following the exact same proceedure. A light on the dash will indicate when it's on and off. Wait for that light before driving. 4hi can be engaged while the truck is driving at speeds less than 50 mph. I recommend much lower speeds or at a stop. Be completely stopped if it's a manual floor shifter.
-Test brakes: at high speeds lightly press brakes and feel for any shuddering. Also feel for shuddering on regular stops. Caliper slide pins tend to stick, and warped rotors are also common.
-Feel and listen for any thumps when you take off from a stop. Also on low speed cornering feel for any rear end chatter.
Good luck with your search, and enjoy whatever you decide to purchase.
My 02 has been a really solid truck. No real problems, and has a few more miles on it than the one you are looking at. Like the other guys said, if all that stuff checks out good you are probablly looking at a great truck.
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