The Diesel Stop banner

Cargo van

6K views 33 replies 7 participants last post by  prevost52 
#1 · (Edited)
Bought a 2000 cargo van (no windows) that's a little rare with power windows, DL, mirrors etc and a rear a/c.
365,000 miles and only had one oil leak which was the idc sensor or something.
Runs and ran great until...
Fuel problem. Bottom line is it needed a new fuel tank and pickup/sender. It appears the tank has a liner sprayed on the inside and after 16 years it started to deteriorate along with the shower head pick up. All new now and running great again. Even with mega miles, it still has power to spare.
Any other cargo vans with similar issues?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
See less See more
1
#2 ·
Bought a 2000 cargo van (no windows) that's a little rare with power windows, DL, mirrors etc and a rear a/c.
385,000 miles and only had one oil leak which was the idc sensor or something.
Runs and ran great until...
Fuel problem. Bottom line is it needed a new fuel tank and pickup/sender. It appears the tank has a liner sprayed on the inside and after 16 years it started to deteriorate along with the shower head pick up. All new now and running great again. Even with mega miles, it still has power to spare.
Any other cargo vans with similar issues?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The cargo vans and cab/chassis rigs had steel tanks and by now most of them have de-laminated. Very common issue. Looks like a great van, probably a lot of hiway miles? I like the vans, would love to get a 4X4 Sportmobile conversion.
 
#4 ·
I was told by the mechanic that specializes in diesels that there's really no room for an intercooler in the cargo or seated vans. He also said it wasn't really needed on the 7.3 that has no performance upgrades.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#5 ·
Great looking van.
 
#6 ·
Oh that 7.3 has lots of performance parts. People put intercooler on 7.3l idi where the don't have room either. It's about 40 to 80hp with an intercooler.

You can get the 7.3 to get high hp and torque ratings just depends on you pocket book.

Good looking van like that color.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the great comments! Since the fuel tank and sender was replaced I had great acceleration and great fuel mileage, I think, 18 mpg 75-80 mph hwy and 12-14 combined city/hwy.
started having a sluggish feeling on taking off from stops but not too bad until it started shutting down when coming to a stop.
Mechanic drove it and noticed right away it was down on power and hooked up his trusty laptop and data reader. All parameters showed the 7.3 with 365,000 miles was in GREAT SHAPE and thinks the shut down is caused by the crank positioning sensor.
He also said there was at one time a recall on this part. Then he proceeds to show me pics of a customers truck that had this part fail just last week that was totaled when he ran into the rear of a flatbed truck due to losing all components like brakes etc..
Going to have him replace it very soon! [emoji30]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the great comments! Since the fuel tank and sender was replaced I had great acceleration and great fuel mileage, I think, 18 mpg 75-80 mph hwy and 12-14 combined city/hwy.
started having a sluggish feeling on taking off from stops but not too bad until it started shutting down when coming to a stop.
Mechanic drove it and noticed right away it was down on power and hooked up his trusty laptop and data reader. All parameters showed the 7.3 with 365,000 miles was in GREAT SHAPE and thinks the shut down is caused by the crank positioning sensor.
He also said there was at one time a recall on this part. Then he proceeds to show me pics of a customers truck that had this part fail just last week that was totaled when he ran into the rear of a flatbed truck due to losing all components like brakes etc..
Going to have him replace it very soon! [emoji30]
Its true that the Ford factory CPS was recalled due to the danger of stalling but there are differing opinions on the subject.

CPS are often referenced by their color for convenience sake (both the color of plastic and the color of the o-ring). The original CPS was "black". The later Ford/IH replacement was gray or dark blue depending on vehicle year. There are also various aftermarket CPS.

Some folks search out the black CPS because it made their engines run very smooth and, although getting quite rare, it is still possible to find a black CPS advertised on Ebay for prices up to $175. A new Motorcraft/IH CPS costs about $35.

I am not second guessing your mechanic's diagnosis for your vehicle but you would be wise to keep that old black one after he swaps it out.

Many PSD owners strongly recommend replacement with a genuine Motorcraft/IH replacement part. NAPA sells an Echlin branded CPS that is quite popular as long as various additional efforts are made to install "chokes" on various wiring.

BTW, another common practice is to keep a spare CPS in the glovebox along with a 10mm wrench since a failed CPS can leave you stranded on the side of the road.
 
#9 ·
If you went to Ford or IH today, they will tell you that you need a gray CPS for your 2000 7.3.

The earlier 7.3's (early-1997) use a dark blue CPS and our 2000 7.3's are found to run better on this dark blue/purple CPS rather than the gray one.

The dark blue: International Harvester P/N# 1821720C98 and Ford P/N: F6T012K073A

The gray: IH P/N# 1825899C93 and Ford P/N F7T012K073A.
 
#10 ·
Ok guys I'm really getting discouraged with my van. Spent a lot of money on it so far and after replacing the cam position sensor, it felt great with plenty of acceleration and smooth running but that lasted ONE DAY. Seems like after parking it overnight and starting it the next morning it was hard to start and then ran sluggish as though the brakes were dragging. They're not! It's back to what it was before the sensor change. Also when the motor is cold the transmission takes forever to shift. Could this be causing my sluggish feel I'm getting? Possibly something going south in the trams? What trans do they use in the 7.3 vans? Also would it or could it be needing a filter change? I don't know the last time that was done before my purchasing it and I've never had it done. Been fixing too many other things.
Getting discouraged is an understatement at this point and I'm about to turn it loose and suffer my losses, if I can't find out what's causing this one thing after another problem! [emoji30]
Thansk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
Ok guys I'm really getting discouraged with my van. Spent a lot of money on it so far and after replacing the cam position sensor, it felt great with plenty of acceleration and smooth running but that lasted ONE DAY. Seems like after parking it overnight and starting it the next morning it was hard to start and then ran sluggish as though the brakes were dragging. They're not! It's back to what it was before the sensor change. Also when the motor is cold the transmission takes forever to shift. Could this be causing my sluggish feel I'm getting? Possibly something going south in the trams? What trans do they use in the 7.3 vans? Also would it or could it be needing a filter change? I don't know the last time that was done before my purchasing it and I've never had it done. Been fixing too many other things.
Getting discouraged is an understatement at this point and I'm about to turn it loose and suffer my losses, if I can't find out what's causing this one thing after another problem! [emoji30]
Thansk
Just curious what brand and model CPS you installed?

The 7.3's are often called cold-blooded. You name a few issues:

1. Hard to start in the morning.
What are your morning temps? Have you verified your Glow Plug (GP) system is functioning?

Did it only run sluggish when cold or at operating temp?

2. Transmission takes forever to shift?

Do you know the history of the transmission? Has it been replaced to your knowledge or could it be original with 365,000 miles?

We have a Ford transmission expert on the forum and you might contact him by personal message.
Meanwhile, have you checked your ATF level? What does the ATF on the dipstick smell and look like? Is it bright red or brown? Does it have a burnt smell?

The transmission in the 2000 is a Model 4R100.

3. Filter change?

The transmission? The 4R100 has one filter inside the transmission which is more of a screen. This filter is considered lifetime but its common to change it when the ATF is filled. A second filter is sometimes added externally and is usually found up front between the front axle to the radiator. Do a google on Magnafine to see what it looks like. Sometimes these filters are added by one owner and then the next owner is not aware of its presence and fails to replace it at 15,000 mile intervals and they can plug up and cause problems.

This is the extent of my limited knowledge of the 4R100. Its best you let the experts weigh in for a real diagnosis.

If the van ran great for a day with a new CPS then I would not throw in the towel just yet.
 
#12 ·
The van could have been fitted with an aftermarket ATF filter. It would either be a spin on type but these Magnafine filters were quite common for some time.
This photo gives you an idea of its size and appearance and you could get under the van and trace the lines coming off the Transmission to the radiator to see if you find something like this:

If you do, then it would be wise to remove it.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Thanks for the reply!
Let me try and answer what I DO know!
First off I know no history if the transmission prior to my buying the van.
The fluid is on the full mark and has been since my purchase and it's always been pinkish. I've checked it cold and hot and in neutral.
It smells normal and not burnt.
Regarding the cps it was replaced with a Ford part, not aftermarket done by a diesel shop.
Here's a scenario leading up to replacement.
I drove to the shop about 6-7 miles from home. It sat in the lot idling for about 20-30 min until mechanic could get to it. He said pull it in and I shut it off. 15 min later he said start it up and take it for a spin. It was very different in terms of power and acceleration. I was ecstatic and happy! I went home, changed clothes and drove it about 15 city miles to dinner where I met friends. Had dinner and drove home and all was still good. It sat overnight in my driveway where the next morning I was going to drive it into work which is about 15 or so city miles. First thing I noticed was it cranked longer to start! After I headed out of my driveway, it revved longer before it shifted into the next gear and so on and on thru all gears. In fact I even had to let up on throttle once to get it to shift. Every time I came to a stop and took off it felt like the parking brake was on. I get to work and it sat there from 10-4 pm and I proceeded to drive home with the same feeling. Sluggish and erratic shifting. It even shifts very quickly from last drive gear into OD.
The mechanics at the shop had previously hooked it up to a laptop and said all parameters of the motor were excellent. The motor sounds and runs very good since replacing the fuel tank, filter, and fuel sender/pickup but it always been sluggish in the first morning start ups until fluids are heated and circulated.
I don't know when the last time the trans was serviced but the seller did mention that it's sluggish in the morning until warm. Maybe he didn't tell me the whole story!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#15 ·
If it's the motor then why do the 3 mechanics in the diesel shop that work on these motors every day tell me that it's one of the strongest motors with the miles they've seen?
Computer read outs don't lie!
I understand your a trans guy but why blame the motor?
You said the filter is good for life? I can't believe that! I've seen too many filter change videos and transmission service advertising to think differently!
Maybe I'm wrong but knowing the motor, I don't think it's the motor



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#16 ·
Please don't question Mark on his tranny knowledge. He's the most knowledgeable guy here on TDS when it comes to automatic trannies.
You say you know the motor, but are you basing that knowledge on what other people are telling you in general, or are you an engine expert?
The 7.3L is indeed a strong motor, but no motor is infallible. If there's an issue with electronics, sensors, etc. that can cause low power and those issues can be hard to track down (the computer doesn't tell all that could be wrong - it can't monitor fuel delivery for instance.) A biased ICP sensor (also not readily apparent from a quick scan) could be causing low power, or your fuel system could still be partly clogged. Unless the pickup foot and filters in it were changed, you could still be low on fuel delivery. There's also a screen inside the fuel pump that could be clogged. You should check to be sure there's no oil inside the ICP sensor connector (a sign of a failing sensor), and also check your fuel pressure and delivery. Opening the filter drain valve and turning the key on should result in a healthy stream of fuel from the drain tube under the front right of the engine.
If it ran with good power before and doesn't now, it's an engine issue. Simple as that.
 
#18 ·
I really wasn't trying to start a pissing match. Ok great he's the go to guy for tranny's and I appreciate that he's here to help.
What I found out is the fluid is way overfilled and I'm hoping that's causing the shift problem. I also feel the early morning sluggishness is due to fluid not flowing properly until warmed up because afterwards, it's almost perfect. I said ALMOST!
Next step is to have the trans fluid changed and possibly flush the whole unit and go from there.
Again, the motor has plenty of power and knowing the mechanics at the shop that works on it, I trust [emoji817] %


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#19 ·
You said in an earlier post that the fluid was at the full line and now it's way overfilled? Which is it? Are you checking with the engine running or off?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#20 ·
Yes I admit when I checked it yesterday it was running in neutral and hot and it was at the hash marks for hot.
Today never had been started I checked it cold and it's above where it was yesterday telling me it's overfilled! Correct or not?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#21 · (Edited)
Not. It has to be running to get a reading. Otherwise the fluid pools in the pan and will read high.

And- diesels are absolute dogs when cold. I don't even begin to expect power or normal shifts until I'm warm.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: ArcticDriver
#23 ·
There is a cold mark so when you do your morning 360* and check your fluids which is standard practice for worktrucks, you can see if your ATF has leaked overnight.

But the proper method to test the actual ATF is to check it at operating temperature for an accurate reading on the HOT hashmarks.

This is a PDF of the Owners Manual. The process for checking ATF in from pp. 189-191.

http://www.ford-f250.com/manuals/2000 Ford F-250 Owners Manual.pdf
 
#24 ·
Thanks that was very informative and I copied this part that explains that it DOES NOT have to be driven to be checked.
Being in Florida and the ambient temps are around mid 80's, this tells me again that it's way overfilled!

You can check the fluid without driving if the ambient temperature is above 10°C (50°F). However, if fluid is added at this time, an overfill condition could result when the vehicle reaches normal operating temperature.

The transmission fluid should be in this range if at ambient temperature
(10°C-35°C [50°F-95°F]).

"LET ME ADD THAT THE PICTURE SHOWS THE FLUID LEVEL IN THE "COLD" SECTION OF THE STICK!"
ADD
ADD
COLD HOT
DO NOT ADD
DON'T ADD IF IN CROSSHATCHED AREA • CHECK WHEN HOT
COLD HOT DO NOT ADD
IDLING IN PARK



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#26 ·
Man you can lead a horse to water....

Good luck.

I am done.
 
#29 ·
He said it was for your morning 360- in other words, for people or organizations that do a full check before each day starts. Like ambulance services and oil companies. It shows the difference in fluid levels caused by the expansion of the fluid between cold and hot levels. Not running hot vs. not running cold.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#30 ·
Ok talked to local tranny guy and explained what the trans was/wasn't doing and suggested syphoning fluid out until it reached the cold mark.
I went to harbor freight and got a cheap symphon.
I took out a quart, still high on stick. Another quart still the same place. I took out damn near a gallon before it was at the top of the cold mark. Automotive wheel system Bumper Auto part

Before I started
Auto part

Second quart
Wood

Almost One gallon
Gas Kettle Cookware and bakeware




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#31 ·
And this was measured with the engine off?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#33 ·
Ok- well I'm going to try one more time on this. Cold is the level it should be when the ATF is cold and engine running. Hot is the level it should be at with ATF at operating temp and engine running. You never check the level with the engine off on this transmission. Never. It gives you no usable data. You will also get poor power out of a cold diesel. The transmission will respond by delaying the shifts. It's just the nature of the beast.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#34 ·
Yes I know this and I understand what your saying! I'm just stating that I feel the trans was overfilled by about a quart and a half. It seems to shift better now. Not as delayed and not as spongy I guess is a good term.
Time will tell I guesa


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top