7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Hey,
The Carrier Bearing in my drive shaft is howling and grinding so I think it's time for it to go.
Is it hard to do by hand or should I take it to a shop like Napa and have them press a new one on?
Also, Since I'm going to have it apart I wanted to replace the U-joints with some with grease zerks on them. Has anyone had any issues with this/ and are they all the same size as the rear one that's attached to the Diff?
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2002 F-350 Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 7.3L Auto SRW
AFE Stage II Intake, AFE 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, CCV Mod, Zoodad Mod, Pre-pump Mod, Flex-A-Lite Tranny Cooler, Draw-Tite Activator II Trailer Brake Control, IC Foil Wrap Delete, 203° Thermostat, Ford reman. Turbo, Fleetrite HD ELC, Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic, 35Watt dual beam HIDs, DB High-Torque Starter
I have a press, and it was not easy. I'll do just about anything on my truck, but I would suggest you have a shop do it.
On my '02 they said I had two different sizes of u-joints. If I'm remembering right, it was a 1410 and a 1350. Not sure though.
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'02 F-350 "Babe The Big Blue Truck" 4x4, Ext. Cab, 8' bed
DP-Tuner 80T, ATS Compressor housing, DIY intake, openair CCV, 80HP 'pane shot, SBC DD all ceramic clutch, ISSPRO boost/pyro gauges, 4" lift, 255/70R22.5 tires, brake linelock, 16 flashy lights, 12 strobes, 12 switches on console, 9 switches on the dash, 7 two-way radios, 5 air horns, laptop, siren, 105 gal. in-bed fuel tank, and who knows what else... oh and a Kennesaw Mountain front bumper (now tried and true)
'66 Bronco "Big Little Monster" - 5.0L EFI, AOD, D20, 3.5" WH sus. lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG muds, Stock Dana 30 front with Lock-Rite, disk brakes, Warn Hubs, Stock Ford 9" rear with mini spool
I would take it to a shop that specializes in drivelines. They are equipped to change the u-joints,carrier bearing, and balance the shafts. Some places can ruin the flanges that house the u-joints. The carrier bearing has to pressed on, and off. The shafts should be trued, and balanced. A good driveline shop is well worth the cost. I use Spicer greasable u-joints.
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02 F350 Lariat CrewCab Toreador Red/ Silver DRW LB AT 4X4 4.10 gears, BTS custom chip, and tranny. built BTS and Ford Tough! 843,784 miles
SOLD: 02 F350 Lariat CC Toreador Red, DRW AT 4.10 gears, BTS custom chip, and Tranny 214,550 miles,Built BTS, and Ford Tough!
Sold 94 F350 XLT SC DI DRW 5Speed 314,000
04 Grand Marquis LS sure wish it had a BTS!
Lifetime Member "BTS BUBBA" Association
"Ain't no feelin like BTS mobilin"
SLAPS Member
Sold 62 Corvair 95 Bus
92 Buick deuce and a quarter
So I was at O'Reilly Auto Parts (Which was a Checker Auto Parts about 3weeks ago).
And they were saying that Ford had 2 different drive shafts for my truck, they carry 2 different I.D. bearings, and I have no idea how to tell which one I have.
Also, they do not know which U-Joints this type of truck has in the rear drive-shaft. (I miss checker, they had a manual for my truck on what parts in contained. This place does not.)
Does anyone know the size of all the U-Joints in the rear 2-piece drive shaft? Or part numbers from a Checker or Napa auto parts store?
otherwise I have to pull it all apart, and hope I can match parts by size while I have the old on in my hand...
__________________
2002 F-350 Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 7.3L Auto SRW
AFE Stage II Intake, AFE 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, CCV Mod, Zoodad Mod, Pre-pump Mod, Flex-A-Lite Tranny Cooler, Draw-Tite Activator II Trailer Brake Control, IC Foil Wrap Delete, 203° Thermostat, Ford reman. Turbo, Fleetrite HD ELC, Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic, 35Watt dual beam HIDs, DB High-Torque Starter
I think they are a 1410 but hopefully someone will chime in and know for sure. I think the front one is a 1350 too. But I could be wrong.
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'02 F-350 "Babe The Big Blue Truck" 4x4, Ext. Cab, 8' bed
DP-Tuner 80T, ATS Compressor housing, DIY intake, openair CCV, 80HP 'pane shot, SBC DD all ceramic clutch, ISSPRO boost/pyro gauges, 4" lift, 255/70R22.5 tires, brake linelock, 16 flashy lights, 12 strobes, 12 switches on console, 9 switches on the dash, 7 two-way radios, 5 air horns, laptop, siren, 105 gal. in-bed fuel tank, and who knows what else... oh and a Kennesaw Mountain front bumper (now tried and true)
'66 Bronco "Big Little Monster" - 5.0L EFI, AOD, D20, 3.5" WH sus. lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG muds, Stock Dana 30 front with Lock-Rite, disk brakes, Warn Hubs, Stock Ford 9" rear with mini spool
Pressed on and off? I had mine off in 10 minutes with a vise and a small hammer, no press needed. I just finished doing mine in the driveway, the only special thing i needed was the socket to get the nut off to get to the bearing. Take it to a shop it will save you alot of time if you don't have the tools, I just don't trust the shops in my area.
__________________ Craig
2002 F-250 7.3L 4x4 SC/LB Lariet 97550mi 3-1-09...The usual mods...
"It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and we're wearing sunglasses."
"Hit it!"
carrier bearing and u joints are easy to replace... I wouldnt pay anyone to do it. I didnt need no special tools but only a big socket set to change out the carrier bearing.
I can drop the carrier bearing, I've had it down a few times.
I have no problem cold chiseling the old bearing off but if a shop is willing to swap the bearing I'm going to have them do it because if they break something they're buying me a new one
I believe they had two series for the bearings both spicer one 1350 and 1410 if i remember correctly.
turned out to be an I.D. of 35mm and 40mm.
For the U-joints they also had two different sizes, but the diagrams they had were poor.
I'm doing this on Saturday morning so it either comes down to me having the parts before hand or taking it all apart and walking into an auto parts store with a bag full of goodies and playing the match game...
__________________
2002 F-350 Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 7.3L Auto SRW
AFE Stage II Intake, AFE 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, CCV Mod, Zoodad Mod, Pre-pump Mod, Flex-A-Lite Tranny Cooler, Draw-Tite Activator II Trailer Brake Control, IC Foil Wrap Delete, 203° Thermostat, Ford reman. Turbo, Fleetrite HD ELC, Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic, 35Watt dual beam HIDs, DB High-Torque Starter
I never would have gotten my carrier bearing off my driveshaft with a chisel. As it was I almost broke my press as that bugger did NOT want to move. I don't have a wimpy press but I don't have that nice 160ton we had at one of my old jobs.
__________________
'02 F-350 "Babe The Big Blue Truck" 4x4, Ext. Cab, 8' bed
DP-Tuner 80T, ATS Compressor housing, DIY intake, openair CCV, 80HP 'pane shot, SBC DD all ceramic clutch, ISSPRO boost/pyro gauges, 4" lift, 255/70R22.5 tires, brake linelock, 16 flashy lights, 12 strobes, 12 switches on console, 9 switches on the dash, 7 two-way radios, 5 air horns, laptop, siren, 105 gal. in-bed fuel tank, and who knows what else... oh and a Kennesaw Mountain front bumper (now tried and true)
'66 Bronco "Big Little Monster" - 5.0L EFI, AOD, D20, 3.5" WH sus. lift, 3" body lift, 35" BFG muds, Stock Dana 30 front with Lock-Rite, disk brakes, Warn Hubs, Stock Ford 9" rear with mini spool
Did the job over the weekend.
Paid a local Car-X to swap the bearing, was worth it.
Picked up all the parts from Napa, and rented a U-Joint/Ball-Joint tool to do the job from O'reilly.
Ended up swapping out 2 joints and the bearing (plus labor to have that replaced) and it cost ~$140.
Ford would have charged me ~$400 for the same work.
__________________
2002 F-350 Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 7.3L Auto SRW
AFE Stage II Intake, AFE 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust, CCV Mod, Zoodad Mod, Pre-pump Mod, Flex-A-Lite Tranny Cooler, Draw-Tite Activator II Trailer Brake Control, IC Foil Wrap Delete, 203° Thermostat, Ford reman. Turbo, Fleetrite HD ELC, Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic, 35Watt dual beam HIDs, DB High-Torque Starter
at 120K my carrier bearing went. Didn't realize it at first. Thought it was out of alignment due to lift and not properly shimmed. Probably why it went out though. Need another 1/4" to .5" shim in stack.
Bought a Spicer replacement from Napa and had local shop replace for $75. Yes I could have done the job myself but I felt like spending time with my son was more important on a Saturday.
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2001 F-350 Oxford Wht PSD 4x4 CC SRW w 06 front end;3.73Limited Slip;Fabtech 4link Dirtlogic Coilover Conversion 8" lift, 37" ProComp Xtreme Terrains on 17x10 Weld Sidewinders, Fuel Pickup Mod, Reg. Fuel Bypass, Jody Tipton 4 position chip,Tymar Intake,ATS Ported Turbo Shroud,Banks Elbow and Downpipe w/ 4" Exhaust,Greg Evans Accumulator,Art Carr billet Torque Converter,MagHytec Pan & Synthetic Fluid, Autometer Phantom Guages,Kenwood eXcelon 950watt sound system w/custom dual 10" sub box-amp rack, PCM: NMC2
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