99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
The Truck in question is in the signature (2000 Ford F250 with the 7.3)
How it happend: I was just driving. Normal conditions. Wasnt pushing it or driving hard or anything like that. Just normal driving. I pull into my driveway, and as the engine started to idle down, I noticed it was idling rough. I went to give it some throttle and it had a hard time revving up, felt like it was missing, and was causing the truck to shake like it was missing really hard. When the idle dropped down low enough the SEL would kick on but go off as soon as the idle kicked back up. The 'miss' makes it seem like the truck is experiencing a good bit of power loss.
I checked the DTC and got;
P1316-Description: Injector circuit/IDM codes detected
Causes: Injector circuit failure/IDM codes detected
So what could this be? How do I fix it?
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2000 Ford F-250 - 4x4 Crew Cab - Lariat
7.3 Powerstroke with intake and 5 inch turbo back exhaust, Programmer
11 inch lift - 16.5 billet wheels, on 39.5 Super Swampers
Do a cylinder buzz test. The P1316 just indicates the IDM computer has "issues". It can range from a loose UVC connector to a bad injector to a bad IDM. The buzz test will give you code(s) that will tell you where to look.
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99.5 F350 SRW 7.3PSD 6SP CC 4x4
<span style="color: red"> autometer pro-comp pyro-n-boost, wicked wheel, Reg return, AIC mod, Exhaust brake mod </span>
banging on all 8 since 11/24/06
Tom
It's a KOEO test in which the IDM tests each injector individually. This only tests it electrically, mechanically is a different test. You will need a scanner that can perform the buzz test (auto enginuity, etc). Then initiate the test and get the results. While it is performing it, the injectors will make some noise, pay attention to it. They should all sound similar, if not you may have an injector "on its way out"
If your truck is running real rough, you might have a loose UVC plug. The wire harness that plugs into the center , bottom of the valve cover has another plug on the inside of the valve cover which can (and does) vibrate loose. This will unplug some injectors.
__________________
99.5 F350 SRW 7.3PSD 6SP CC 4x4
<span style="color: red"> autometer pro-comp pyro-n-boost, wicked wheel, Reg return, AIC mod, Exhaust brake mod </span>
banging on all 8 since 11/24/06
Tom
So where can I go to get this 'test' done at it? And to check these plugs I must remove the valve covers? I already went out side to check them and they felt and looked pretty secure. One wire on the very end of the driver, the pin slid out of the socket and I pushed it back in, but it didnt seem to help the situation.
The truck cranks up, just struggles more than usual. And it even idles, just somewhat rough. Has a hard time revving up though.
__________________
2000 Ford F-250 - 4x4 Crew Cab - Lariat
7.3 Powerstroke with intake and 5 inch turbo back exhaust, Programmer
11 inch lift - 16.5 billet wheels, on 39.5 Super Swampers
There is an identical plug on the inside of the VC for each side. What you are unplugging from on the outside is just the VC gasket.
Are you handy with a voltmeter?
__________________
99.5 F350 SRW 7.3PSD 6SP CC 4x4
<span style="color: red"> autometer pro-comp pyro-n-boost, wicked wheel, Reg return, AIC mod, Exhaust brake mod </span>
banging on all 8 since 11/24/06
Tom
...about the plug. I found where the 2 plugs are located. They seem pretty secure (on the outside that is) and there was one wire out of the bunch on the driver side that seemed "unplugged" from the socket its plugged into, so I just pushed it back in and it felt like it was clipped back into place...
__________________
2000 Ford F-250 - 4x4 Crew Cab - Lariat
7.3 Powerstroke with intake and 5 inch turbo back exhaust, Programmer
11 inch lift - 16.5 billet wheels, on 39.5 Super Swampers
Ok. the plug wiring goes as such, from front to back
GP, GP, INJ+, INJ+, INJ-, INJ+, INJ+, GP, GP.
If you set the ohms to 100 or so, you are just looking for continuity. Check each INJ+ to INJ- and make sure its ok. You should have under 5ohms for each inj. If you get an open on a couple injectors, your UVC harness looks guilty.
This is all done with the harness disconnected at the VC's.
__________________
99.5 F350 SRW 7.3PSD 6SP CC 4x4
<span style="color: red"> autometer pro-comp pyro-n-boost, wicked wheel, Reg return, AIC mod, Exhaust brake mod </span>
banging on all 8 since 11/24/06
Tom
its the same set up on each plug on the valve cover. from the firewall (or turbo) to the radiator? So i need to disconnect the valve cover plugs. Then I need to check the pins that says INJ+ (im guessing the + is where the positive probe should be inserted) to INJ- (where the negative probe should be inserted) which will check continuity, and should measure 5ohms. Right? and if it reads something different then there is a problem with the plug?
__________________
2000 Ford F-250 - 4x4 Crew Cab - Lariat
7.3 Powerstroke with intake and 5 inch turbo back exhaust, Programmer
11 inch lift - 16.5 billet wheels, on 39.5 Super Swampers
yes, the order cooresponds to the inj or gp from front to back, back to front, on either left or right bank. The center pin (inj-) is basically a central ground path for all the injs on that bank. If you have 5.6ohms I wouldn't get concerned, you are looking more for an open. If you do have an open, there is a break in the circuit , either wiring or injector solenoid. If there are multiple injs open, the UVC harness is more probable. Either way, if you have an open in one of the injs, you are looking at pulling the cover.
__________________
99.5 F350 SRW 7.3PSD 6SP CC 4x4
<span style="color: red"> autometer pro-comp pyro-n-boost, wicked wheel, Reg return, AIC mod, Exhaust brake mod </span>
banging on all 8 since 11/24/06
Tom
So, check each of the plugs, if there is more than one open circuit, probability of the UVC harness being at fault is likely, if only one injector is open, then its the injector or? how do i know if its not the IDM? If it was the IDM would the truck still run?
...or what if all the injectors show continuity? lol
__________________
2000 Ford F-250 - 4x4 Crew Cab - Lariat
7.3 Powerstroke with intake and 5 inch turbo back exhaust, Programmer
11 inch lift - 16.5 billet wheels, on 39.5 Super Swampers
If it is only one, it may still be the wiring. There was problems with melting plugs, so you should pull the VC before coming to any conclusions. You might still have problems with the IDM, but without the scanner to do a buzz test you are just trying to eliminate a couple easy (and common) problems.
yes and no, well maybe. I had the same problems you had, a ses light, a little shaking at idle, and no way to read the codes. I ended up going to a couple diesel garages to get them to get the codes for me. It came up as no.8 inj being bad. In the meantime, I had ordered autoenginuity so I wouldn't have to go somewhere for reading codes. I replaced no 8 inj, and the ses light went out. I ran the buzz test on the scanner and it failed no 8 again. As it turned out, no 8 inj AND the IDM were bad. That cost me another $700 from ford, and $200 for the inj. If your truck is shaking real bad, you might be missing multiple cylinders, and from what I understand, these trucks can still run with only 1 side firing. I cant imagine it being very pretty, but wow, thats half the cylinders dead.
__________________
99.5 F350 SRW 7.3PSD 6SP CC 4x4
<span style="color: red"> autometer pro-comp pyro-n-boost, wicked wheel, Reg return, AIC mod, Exhaust brake mod </span>
banging on all 8 since 11/24/06
Tom
If all the inj's are showing continuity, it only really eliminates the wiring harness. A continuity test isn't checking the operation of the actual solenoid, only the coil. A buzz test checks the solenoids.
It also doesn't eliminate the possibility of the wire harness on top of the vc being chaffed. (the bottom row of wires on the big square plug are for the inj's) . You might want to flip it up and check it while it's accessible.
__________________
99.5 F350 SRW 7.3PSD 6SP CC 4x4
<span style="color: red"> autometer pro-comp pyro-n-boost, wicked wheel, Reg return, AIC mod, Exhaust brake mod </span>
banging on all 8 since 11/24/06
Tom
Wow thats alot to digest... Ok so let me repeat this so I can make sure...again.
So basically no matter what the valve cover(s) need to come off to check the internal plug. Because if its just even one INJ it can still be the wiring.
If its just on one bank only that valve cover should come off. What if I get open circuits on both banks? Could it be something other than the wiring, because whats the probability of the wiring going bad/malfunctioning on both banks at the same time? If thats the case I should check the IDM right? And if I only get one bad reading on one injector, more or less its probably that injector? Cause whats the probability of the IDM and the Injector going bad at the same time? Or can a bad IDM cause just one injector to malfunction or what?
I dont know **** about diesels. lol
__________________
2000 Ford F-250 - 4x4 Crew Cab - Lariat
7.3 Powerstroke with intake and 5 inch turbo back exhaust, Programmer
11 inch lift - 16.5 billet wheels, on 39.5 Super Swampers
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