7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
M1 what kind of guides do you stick in these heads. Back when I used to do heads at GAM I had really good luck with bron-el inserts. How would these hold up in a psd or do you have something better??
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Curt
1997 F350 cc/lb, 4x4, E4OD, 4.10, Pyro/Trans Temp/Boost Gauges. Torn apart- installing h2e, sd intercooler, bronco tank, bosch 044 fuel pump, dahl 150, regulated return, big oil, b codes.
I try and use "K-liners" whenever possible, it's a interrupted spiral bronze manganese liner. Can't really tell you how well they hold up as compared to cast iron as I have not had any come-backs [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] - Psycho's motor has these in it and they looked great at last teardown.
For performance stuff I use full bronze .502" guides which from gasser experience provide longer life and lubricate the valve better - should carry over to diesels as an important point because unlike gas, diesel is a dry fuel and needs all the lube on the stems you can give it. You can also run tighter clearances with either of these choices because of the lubricating properties of bronze.
The one I used I believe were from k-line as well, I think(its been almost 10 yrs since I worked there) They were a steel guide with bronze liner preinstalled. They worked great in the alcohol motor we built.
sooo-machinist one-did you have a chance to look into some springs for me? Ive asked SEVERAL people on this forum, and they say the ones I sent you would be perfect, as thats what everyone else is using, but if you advise against them? Im ready to send the deposit for work to start, just send me an email!
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BRIGHT RED Early 99' PSD Crew Cab Longbox F-250:
PERFORMANCE
-pmt late computer
-Dp 6 position chip (stock, tow, 80, 120, 140 xtreme, high idle)
-Factory Tech Monster Box
-ARP headstuds
-Garrett Gtp38r with 1.15 exhaust housing and no wastegate or ebv
-4" stainless mbrp exhaust w/6" tip
-Tymar intake
-stealth dual 17* hpops with dual IPR's
-bds 238cc a codes
-regulated return fuel system
-Triple gauge pod
-dahl 150 seperator
OTHER
-8" Pro-comp/shackle lift, 6 shocks up front, 4 in the rear
-dual steering stabilizers
-37" M/T Baja Claw radials on 16x12 M/T wheels
-carr hoops steps for each door
-2 mtx subs, mobile a/v system
-15 percent tint all around
-complete 2006 chrome package front grille, bumper, lights, and badges.
-bull bar
-chrome handles/mirror covers/tailight guards
AWAITING INSTALL:
Hopefully an intercooler and some methanol once I get this thing going....
Yes - I actually did some research into drop-in springs that I would recommend, the notes I took are at work so I cannot reference them now...
Are you Mike? If so, I looked at those 120 comp springs which I guess would work, but I would like to see a higher spring rate because these motors have such low lift, the open pressure does not get high enough with a standard gasser spring that works with cams in the .500-.600 range. To reach 300lbs over the nose, the seated pressure would have to be 150lbs, which is higher than I typically run. The only way to know if they will work will be to mock them up and check pressures. What location method are people using at the bottom of the spring?
Like I have said - I highly recommend the Hmax spring kit, yeah it costs $800 - but you get a proven well engineered setup designed for this application, and it keeps the rotator in use for valve seat longevity.
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The one I used I believe were from k-line as well, I think(its been almost 10 yrs since I worked there) They were a steel guide with bronze liner preinstalled. They worked great in the alcohol motor we built.
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I have not seen those, sounds like a good option for some applications. With the k-liners I have to ream out the original guide, install the liner, broach it to lock in place, then hone to size.
These ones worked great. Cut to .500 like a normal replacement guide and drive in, then hone or ream to size. They were expensive, but they worked well.
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