7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
I remember seeing a real good coolant flushing procedure on here a while back and tried to find it by the search but came up empty handed. Anyone have any links?
Thanks in advance
__________________
2001 F-350 CC ZF-6 DRW 4x4 4.10, 15k lb modified J&I flatbed dump, DP tuner F-5 chip, South Bend Con OFE, Midwest short shifter, Ranch Hand legend front end, Ford Severe duty intake, AGR super pump, 4 inch turbo back straightpipe, Pacbrake, 2WD Low mod, ISSPRO triple gauges, Optima yellow tops, Custom gooseneck/conventional hitches, Prodigy brake controller, 4 leaf overload pack, Onboard air with horn, Phenoix underbody boxes, Dieselsite 203* t-stat, ESOF lines, DIY HX mod, Door dinger delete. And a bunch of comsmetics!
Here it is too... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
You'll need the following:
4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate. In agreement with International who made your engine, I recommend a conventional coolant with SCA, or a pre-charged conventional coolant for the early 99's (pre-2/2/99). For all other 99-up PSD's I recommend a Heavy Duty ELC. But the choice of coolant is yours.
SCA (if using conventional un-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).
Up to 20 gallons of distilled water (you may use less if your tap water quality is excellent requiring less flushing).
A Prestone flush kit with "T".
1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").
A new thermostat gasket.
Possibly a new thermostat, new coolant filter (if you've added one), or any hoses or hose clamps that you think may need replacing.
Note: A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.
Flushing procedure:
Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.
Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help circulate the old coolant out of the heater core during flushing.
Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).
Drain radiator at pet-**** (bottom left-hand driver's side) into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.
Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.
Remove driver's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.
Remove passenger's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container (this is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter).
Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.
Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing).
Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.
Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.
Close radiator pet-****.
Remove heater hose at passenger's side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).
Install that heater hose to one end of the flush "T".
Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T".
Install the remaining end of the 5.8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from.
*Note*: You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired.
Install garden hose onto flush "T".
Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.
With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint).
Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.
Drain radiator at pet****, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.
Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose to engine.
Close radiator pet****, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).
Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.
Run engine a couple of minutes.
Drain radiator pet****, remove both block plugs.
Close radiator pet****, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.
Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.
Run engine a couple of minutes.
Drain radiator pet****, remove both block plugs.
Close radiator pet**** permanently.
Install both block plugs and tighten permanently.
(You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad).
Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket.
Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.
If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).
Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.
Replace degas bottle cap.
Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.
Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.
Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle. (this may take several days).
Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.
This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. If in cold climates, it is always best to have the freeze protection tested with a quality refractometer.
Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.
__________________
2001 F-350 CC ZF-6 DRW 4x4 4.10, 15k lb modified J&I flatbed dump, DP tuner F-5 chip, South Bend Con OFE, Midwest short shifter, Ranch Hand legend front end, Ford Severe duty intake, AGR super pump, 4 inch turbo back straightpipe, Pacbrake, 2WD Low mod, ISSPRO triple gauges, Optima yellow tops, Custom gooseneck/conventional hitches, Prodigy brake controller, 4 leaf overload pack, Onboard air with horn, Phenoix underbody boxes, Dieselsite 203* t-stat, ESOF lines, DIY HX mod, Door dinger delete. And a bunch of comsmetics!
[ QUOTE ]
Here it is too... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
You'll need the following:
4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate. In agreement with International who made your engine, I recommend a conventional coolant with SCA, or a pre-charged conventional coolant for the early 99's (pre-2/2/99). For all other 99-up PSD's I recommend a Heavy Duty ELC. But the choice of coolant is yours.
SCA (if using conventional un-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).
Up to 20 gallons of distilled water (you may use less if your tap water quality is excellent requiring less flushing).
A Prestone flush kit with "T".
1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").
A new thermostat gasket.
Possibly a new thermostat, new coolant filter (if you've added one), or any hoses or hose clamps that you think may need replacing.
Note: A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.
Flushing procedure:
Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.
Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help circulate the old coolant out of the heater core during flushing.
Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).
Drain radiator at pet-**** (bottom left-hand driver's side) into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.
Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.
Remove driver's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.
Remove passenger's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container (this is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter).
Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.
Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing).
Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.
Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.
Close radiator pet-****.
Remove heater hose at passenger's side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).
Install that heater hose to one end of the flush "T".
Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T".
Install the remaining end of the 5.8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from.
*Note*: You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired.
Install garden hose onto flush "T".
Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.
With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint).
Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.
Drain radiator at pet****, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.
Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose to engine.
Close radiator pet****, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).
Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.
Run engine a couple of minutes.
Drain radiator pet****, remove both block plugs.
Close radiator pet****, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.
Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.
Run engine a couple of minutes.
Drain radiator pet****, remove both block plugs.
Close radiator pet**** permanently.
Install both block plugs and tighten permanently.
(You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad).
Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket.
Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.
If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).
Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.
Replace degas bottle cap.
Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.
Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.
Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle. (this may take several days).
Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.
This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. If in cold climates, it is always best to have the freeze protection tested with a quality refractometer.
Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.
[/ QUOTE ]
Moderators: Why is this not a sticky????
__________________
Andy
Early 99 5-98, F350 extended cab, DRW LB 245,000 miles and counting, Hood insulation delete (Soaked with fuel), Hutch mod, Harpoon mod. Otherwise, pure stock (for now)
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
Here is a simpler way that does the job just fine, just very boring.
Drain pet**** into 5 gal bucket, refill with tap water, drive truck until heater blows hot, drain pet**** into bucket, repeat this until nothing but water comes out, took me 6 times, then drain pet**** and fill with bottled water, drive until heater blows warm, drain, do this 4 times, on the last dump, fill with 4 gal of concentrate coolant, and you are done, top off with concentrate as needed.
You will need 20 gal of distilled water, and 4 gal of coolant. I hope this helps.
__________________
NCH
2000 Ford F350 4X4 Auto,Crew Cab Lariat, Western Hauler Package, Long bed,
Isspro EV Guages on A-Pillar, Coolant change from Green to Gold to Red,
SCT XCalibrator2 with DP's 60 tow,80 econo,120 Race
Fumoto Valve, Marinco Mod, Homemade CCV MOD,Fuel Neck Mod, KMC Wheels at all 4's
Monroe Reflex Shoxs, SS/Kevlar Brake Lines,
FTVB from Greg Evans,Ford AIS Intake
Coolant filter,Walker BTM, Attwood Gooseneck ball flush mount,6.0 cooler, 2002 headlights & corners
Zoodad Mod,Cyro'd Powerslots and Hawks LTS Pads. 2005 front grill
Turbo Lifesaver, Infinity Refrence x4, powered by Infinity Reference amp, sounds awesome!!
Towing a 2005 HORNET 30BHSS 8500 LBS,
Stopping it with a Prodigy P3 Controller
Friends Don't Let Friends Drive Trucks With Generic Tunes!!
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