Coolant LEAK! help? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.

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Old 11-27-2012, 10:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Coolant LEAK! help?

just had a leak, lot of smoke... thought it was tstat or waterpump.. but.. leaking under crank pulley.. help!? motor pull? ****kkkkk
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2000 7.3 Extended Cab Long Bed Lariat...

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she breaths well, has extra air and fuel
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Are you sure it's not running down from the weep hole?
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks chuck, dont think so.. i tjhought the tsat 'pucked' thats where i saw coolant remains.. but after adding fluid and running its leaking under the crank pulley.. no fuel or oil in coolant yet?
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nothing crazy, it carries alot of weight, it tows alot.. has all the 'usual' upgrades plus some..

she breaths well, has extra air and fuel
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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How old and how many miles are on your water pump? It sounds like that is what it is. First one lasted 85k miles and 6 years. My second one lasted 105K miles and 7 years. I've heard of longer, but my experience is about average. And, I've heard of shorter. If it is leaking bad, it must have been squeaking for a while, based on my experience. Also, the bearings can completely fail, leaving your fan blade hanging a short distance from your radiator. So don't let it go too long. Don't ask how I know that.
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Since the crank pulley is attached to the crank (obviously), and the oil pump is just under that cover, I can't figure what coolant passage is there. It has to be coming from somewhere other than right there.

Fill the degas bottle and then either pressure test the cooling system or drive it to get things up to operating temp and then have a good look see. My $ is still on the water pump.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks, i hope so.. and it did make a bit of a squeel recently. I noticed it during warmups, but thought it was another belt.. it must be dripping in a way to make it look like its coming from the crank, wierd i know... off to warm it up and take another look, thanks again
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nothing crazy, it carries alot of weight, it tows alot.. has all the 'usual' upgrades plus some..

she breaths well, has extra air and fuel
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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It will weep out of the hole and run back the pump and down around the low pressure oil pump and drip off the lip of the front cover below the crank.

Been there
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:06 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It will weep out of the hole and run back the pump and down around the low pressure oil pump and drip off the lip of the front cover below the crank.

Been there
ive been told that recently, what exactly does that mean. coolant in oil?. Looks like a bigger process than i thought to R&R. Do you really need the 'special' tools for the fan? What are the chances of not getting the gaskets on correctly, first try, in the driveway?.. thinkin about takin it to a shop

at least it didnt snow, but theres a plow in the way lol
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nothing crazy, it carries alot of weight, it tows alot.. has all the 'usual' upgrades plus some..

she breaths well, has extra air and fuel
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:13 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You can rent for free the fan clutch tool from the A/P store. Others have used an impact hammer ( not my choice for sure) there is a rubber gasket that sits in a groove on the pump so you pretty much can't goof it up.

What I do is take the bolts out and place them in the new pump in the same location. Then transfer them to the old one after you get it out, that way the same length bolt goes back in the same hole. I have changed pumps in about 30 minutes ( been wrenching for a while) so maybe give yourself a couple hours.

Coolant in the oil makes the oil look like a chocolate milkshake.
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ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 11-28-2012, 09:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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i needed to hear/read that even though i knew.. thank you.. off to try
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nothing crazy, it carries alot of weight, it tows alot.. has all the 'usual' upgrades plus some..

she breaths well, has extra air and fuel
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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before i 'try', i started it up like suggested.. pissing coolant from the bottom.. what causes this? does the pump seize up and the pressure just perges out though the bottom seal of the waterpump? ive done this in gas motors plenty of times, but havent seen this before. it also jumps into hi idle realy quick, when it shoudnt. and she doesnt run to well............ ?
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nothing crazy, it carries alot of weight, it tows alot.. has all the 'usual' upgrades plus some..

she breaths well, has extra air and fuel
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I assume you mean it's pissing from the bottom of the pump. there are seals on the impeller shaft that will fail, That's one form of failure. I've seen shafts break, bearings sieze...but in your case I am betting the seal let go, that seems to be the most common failure I see.
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ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

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Old 11-28-2012, 10:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I assume, but cant see exactly. ground too wet with antifreeze and rain lol (gonna clean it up).. should i go all out? pump, seal, tstat, housing?.. i dont think its ever been replaced.. 198000miles
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nothing crazy, it carries alot of weight, it tows alot.. has all the 'usual' upgrades plus some..

she breaths well, has extra air and fuel
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:22 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The air chisel sure works well - I probably wouldn't do it on a water pump I was going to re-use, but you're replacing it anyway...

If your thermostat housing is pitted, you can replace it. I have the original on mine, but I did buy a reinforcing collar off eBay. Its expensive, but made from stainless so it should last a few million years.
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:18 PM   #15 (permalink)
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thanks guys.. up and running, but what a first time driveway project with hand tools! ended up breaking 2 botls on the pump (short ones).. what a PITA that was.. i really only ran into 1 problem besides that..

the drain valve broke as SOON as i touched it. I was able to put an allen wrench in it, to drain, and actually tighten it back up without a leak. What i dont get is it wouldnt thread all the way out/come out. I ordered a new one from ford and called them with my situation. They said it should back all the way out but it obviously didnt. So i guess im asking A) is there some sort of 'stopper' so you cant pull it all the way out? (obvious in my situation). B) is this something ford did to make you buy a new radiator in this occasion? or could i possibly have and aftermarket rad where this would happen? Just wondering if anyone knows...
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nothing crazy, it carries alot of weight, it tows alot.. has all the 'usual' upgrades plus some..

she breaths well, has extra air and fuel
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