'99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine and DrivetrainDiscussion of the 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 1999-Up Super Duty trucks and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 7.3L Power Stroke engine.
Hey all, 2 Quick questions I'm in CT and have an 02:
1. excluding the cost of the turbo, what should be the approximate cost to swap out a direct replacement turbo?
2. How do I know if the turbo really needs to be replace and I'm not just getting jerked around?
I've been having an issue of the EGT going up and my boost going to 0. I've had a couple fellas on here say that it could be a leak in the cold air pipes or boots, but the gut at he shop thinks it is the turbo. It isn't making any noise, and as long as I'm not pulling a load on jumping on the fuel pedal it will increase in speed. I took it to the shop and they said turbo, I need my truck for use on the farm, but I don't want to get rammed either. If it is the turbo then okay, but if it is something else like the boots or pipe I don't want to pay to have a turbo put on.
pull your intake pipe and check the shaft for play there should be a tad bit of play in it. if it building boost then drops to zero i think you have a leak somewhere that just lets go at a certain amount of boost. if your turbo was toast it'd be pretty obvious, either smoke out the exhaust or itd be making some noise
2000 f 250 4x4. ccsb
just hit 218,000
38R with Turbo Master
Riff Raff FRx
5 inch miter cut stack
Autometer C2 series gauges.
5.5 inch lift with blocks and shackle drops
DIESELSITE HEAVYDUTY BOOTS ALL AROUND.
ITP in tank kit-awesome! frame mounted pre-filter
20 in diamo rims-33in toyo A/T
DP-TUNER F6- no start,stock,60 tow codes, 80E codes, 120 race codes
DIY TYMAR with donaldson filter.
AIH cut off
hood insulation removed
always bright overhead display
05 style headlights with 14k HID'S
08 leather front seats
bypass oil system
running on WMO!
DIESEL SITE coolant filtration
Denso HT gear reduction starter. Soo fast!!!
Wish List..... BTS....Stage 3 hybrids.... Push rods and Spings!!
You can replace the turbo yourself in a few hours. Not a bad job. I R&R mine 2x. Once when I replaced the turbo, second when I replaced my up-pipes and rebuilt my pedestal. Really not a bad job at all.
Thanks for the info, I was hoping someone could tell me how many hours the book say that it should take. I don't think it is the turbo either. It does rebuild boost and it isn't making any noise or blowing smoke. Due to just having ankle surgery I will not be able to get under the hood to do any work on it for at least 6 weeks, and I'm not sure that I feel confident enough to change it out myself. I took the truck to a local shop that does work on Diesel trucks, I would have taken to the dealer, but if it is the turbo, I don't think they will put on anything but a ford reman. If it is the turbo I'd like to put the Garrett BB on it. Maybe the best thing to do is take it from where it is and drop it off at the dealership to get a second opinion?
If you can build boost, at any point, your turbo isn't bad. I would maybe look at the wastegate, make sure that the actuator isn't letting the exhaust through when it shouldn't be. Pull the vacuum line to it and wire it shut.
Also, have them pull the intake to the turbo and show you that the shaft has play and that the compressor wheel is contacting the housing. Chances are, it's not.
Then have them put a set of dieselsite boots (all 6) on the CAC tubes and intakes.
__________________ '02 F-350 "Babe The Big Blue Truck" 4x4, Ext. Cab, 8' bed, SRW
DP-Tuner 80T, 160cc single shots, GTP38R turbo, Ceramic coated IH up-pipes, coolant filter, 6637, DIY exhaust brake, openair CCV, propane, SBC DD all ceramic clutch, ISSPRO EV boost/pyro/HPOP pres./rear end temp, 4" lift, traction bars, 255/70R22.5 tires, York air compressor, 16 flashy lights, 12 strobes, 12 switches on console, 9 switches on the dash, 7 two-way radios, 5 air horns, laptop, siren, 105 gal. in-bed fuel tank, Kennesaw Mountain front bumper
'86 H-D Sportster - 16" apes, custom paint, custom pipes to fishtails, single fire ignition, leather saddle bags on custom brackets, bagger fender, solo seat, home made luggage rack, all LED rear lights
'66 Bronco "Big Little Monster"
Yeah, it sounds like you have a bad leak around at least one of the boots in the intercooler tubes. Remove the boots, clean them up squeeky clean, clean the metal tubes at the contact points squeeky clean too. Then put it all back together and tighten the band clamps very tight. That should fix it. You don't need different boots (rubber tubes and new clamps) unless you insist on a squeeky clean engine compartment with no oil mist that attracts dust and turns it into greasy gunk.
But if you want the squeeky clean engine compartment without that oil mist gunk coating the intercooler tubes, then spend the big bucks with Bob Riley's www.dieselsite.com or other vendor that sells the better intercooler boots and clamps.
My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.